T he new jewelry season at Sotheby's is marked by innovation, with the introduction of a new monthly online sales format, "The Weekly Edit".
Our first sale will feature a fine selection of jewelry from the early 20th century onward, signed by such famous jewelers as Van Cleef and Arpels, Tiffany's, Boucheron, Seaman Scheeps, JAR, Repossi and Lalalounis. In addition, there are also individual pieces and demi-parures set with diamonds and colored stones, unsigned but typical of French production in the 19th century, the 1920s or the 1950s.
Highlights from the Sale
The Fairytale Beginnings of Van Cleef & Arpels
- Late 19th Century
Reverse intaglio and gold bracelet, late 19th centuryThis beautiful bracelet with reverse intaglio decoration reflects the fact that both horse racing and English fashion were all the rage during the Belle Époque. Dated 1895, it was probably made in honour of the horse 'Brin d'Or', as indicated by the engraving.
Coral, onyx and diamond jabot pin, 1930sThe geometric shape, the pave-set with diamonds on platinum and the use of contrasting onyx and coral cabochons are typical of jewellery from the 1930s. This particular tie pin comes from the workshop of Strauss, Allard & Meyer, who worked for the important Place Vendôme jewellers such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier.
Boucheron, gold and ruby brooch, 1940sThis feather brooch was made in the 1940s by the Maison Boucheron . Faced with a shortage of raw materials during the Second World War, jewellers had to be even more creative, turning to yellow gold and using fewer stones for pave setting. Works done in the 1940s, as seen in this feather brooch, contrast with the rich production of pieces in platinum and diamonds of the previous decade.
Cartier, Turquoise and sapphire clip-brooch, ‘Tortue’, 1950sThe 1950s brought forth a renewal of creativity and a greater importance being given to themes of Fauna and Flora. Created by Cartier in 1946, this particular model of the 'Turtle' brooch was done in several variations: diamonds, coloured stones, coral...
Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, Three tortoiseshell and gold bangles, 1970sAldo Cipullo was one of Cartier's leading designers. He created the famous 'Love' and 'Juste un Clou' bracelets, which became fabulously successful worldwide and best sellers for the brand. He designed this set of three tortoiseshell bracelets for Cartier in 1971.
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co., Gold demi-parure, ‘Graffiti, 1980sPaloma Picasso, alongside Elsa Peretti, is unquestionably the emblematic designer for the American jeweller Tiffany & Co.. Yellow gold and coloured stones are brought to the fore in her creations, which are still marketed today. This bracelet and earclips from the 'Graffiti' series is a perfect example of jewellery from the 1980s - graphic and bold.
Graff, Pair of diamond earringsFounded in 1960, Graff is one of today’s most famous jewellery houses, particularly renowned for its diamonds and coloured stones. Over the past few decades, Graff has acquired many exceptional diamonds, such as the 'Star of Bombay', the 'Imperial Blue' and more recently the 'Lesedi La Rona'. This elegant pair of diamond earrings is a very beautiful example of jewellery by Graff.
Jewelry of the 1950s
The 1950s form a bridge between a time of economic restriction following the war and the economic boom of the 1960s. It is a period marked by both intense industrialization and strong optimism about the future. Creations from the 1950s mark the transition from the skilled craftsmanship of the early 20th century to more industrialized production. In jewelry, this translates into pieces composed of gold threads that are braided, woven and textured with tassels. The creations are both sober but sumptuous with cascading, flowing patterns, or with patterns with a profusion of foliage, alternating scrolls and arabesques. The jewelry of the time echoed the neo-baroque productions found in design and architecture, as seen in the creations of Maison Jansen.
The Fabulous Jewels of Graff
Continuing the recent success of the capsule collection, Graff: Light & Form, we are pleased to present another selection of jewels by the famed diamantaire. For more than 50 years, the House of Graff has represented some of the world’s rarest gemstones. Charismatic and visionary founder Laurence Graff’s extraordinary success rests on his innate understanding of diamonds and his insistence on perfectly proportioned cuts, optimizing the brilliance, color and overall quality of every stone he handles.