7 Secret Details About Jane Birkin's Original Birkin Revealed
Learn more about the unique details of Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Birkin.
No handbag in the world carries as much cultural significance as the Hermès Birkin. But before it became the ultimate symbol of luxury, the Birkin was born out of necessity—crafted specifically for Jane Birkin herself. Jane's very own Original Birkin will be featured in Sotheby's upcoming Fashion Icons auction in Paris, from June 26 to July 10, 2025. This is a historic opportunity to own Jane’s very own Original Birkin—a one-of-a-kind piece that embodies the intersection of fashion, craftsmanship, and personal history.
No handbag in the world carries as much cultural significance as the Hermès Birkin. But before it became the ultimate symbol of luxury and status, the Birkin was born from practicality—a design created specifically for the iconic actress and singer Jane Birkin herself. Now, for the first time in nearly 25 years, Jane’s very own Original Birkin returns to the spotlight as a highlight of Sotheby’s upcoming Fashion Icons auction in Paris, running from June 26 to July 10, 2025. This extraordinary opportunity invites collectors and fashion enthusiasts to acquire a one-of-a-kind piece that embodies the intersection of craftsmanship, celebrity, and fashion history.
History of the Most Famous Bag: Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Birkin
The story of the Birkin began in 1981 aboard an Air France flight, where Jane Birkin found herself seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then the artistic director of Hermès. As she tried to stow her belongings in the overhead compartment, Jane’s famous wicker basket spilled its contents onto Dumas’s lap—a chance encounter that would lead to fashion history.
Frustrated with the small bags of the time, Jane lamented to Dumas that she couldn’t find a handbag large enough to hold her daily essentials, especially while traveling with her young daughter Charlotte. Inspired by Jane’s practicality and her signature style, Dumas sketched a bag that would marry function and elegance—a design that would become the Birkin.
In 1985, Hermès presented Jane with the prototype, asking for her permission to name the new model in her honor. This very prototype—the Original Birkin—was the first of its kind, featuring distinctive characteristics that set it apart from the models Hermès would later produce commercially.
7 Secret Details About Jane's Original Birkin Bag
Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin bag was a true prototype that borrowed design elements from Hermès’ iconic sac Haut à Courroies (HAC), the model originally designed to carry riding gear. The very first Birkin, created especially for Jane, featured seven distinctive design elements that were never again replicated together in any subsequent Birkin model. In fact, today’s commercially produced Birkins—finalized decades ago—no longer include any of these unique characteristics, underscoring the singularity of Jane’s Original Birkin.
This prototype was more than just a fashion statement; it became inseparable from Jane herself. She carried it daily for nearly a decade, and its well-worn condition reflects her life on the move—full of advocacy, art, and personal style. Her Birkin served not only as a functional accessory but also as a canvas for her activism. Jane famously adorned it with stickers supporting Médecins du Monde and UNICEF, transforming the luxury handbag into a powerful symbol of her humanitarian efforts.
Throughout her life, Hermès gifted Jane four additional Birkin bags, yet none matched the authenticity and sentimentality of her original prototype. She cherished her Original Birkin until 1994, when she chose to donate it to a charity auction benefiting Association Solidarité Sida, a leading French AIDS charity. The bag was sold again at auction at Poulain Le Fur in May 2000 and has remained in private hands ever since.
Read on to discover each of the seven unique design details that make Jane’s Original Birkin one of the most extraordinary handbags in fashion history.
1. Shoulder Strap
The most distinctive feature of Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin is its attached shoulder strap, which was never included on the commercial version. In the 1990s, Hermès did make a limited-edition Birkin with a detachable strap, but Jane’s Original Birkin is the only one that has a fixed, non-removable shoulder strap.
2. Size
While the first Birkin bags Hermès produced came in the 40 and 35 sizes, Jane’s Original Birkin was a unique blend of the two. It matched the width and height of a Birkin 35 but had the depth of a Birkin 40, giving it a one-of-a-kind silhouette.
3. Hardware
Jane’s Original Birkin featured gilded brass hardware, a detail that was replaced by gold-plated hardware stamped with a check mark when the Birkin was officially launched. Over time, Hermès expanded the range of hardware options to include palladium, rose gold, and ruthenium finishes.
4. Metal Rings (Pontet)
Jane’s Original Birkin featured closed metal rings, resembling the pontets found on the Hermès sac Haut à Courroies (HAC). When Hermès first launched the Birkin commercially, the rings were open at the bottom—a design that remained until the early 1990s. Today’s Birkin bags, however, feature open rings at the top, reflecting the evolution of this signature detail.
5. Bottom Studs
The bag’s feet, or bottom studs, on Jane’s Original Birkin are noticeably smaller than those Hermès later used on production Birkin bags.
6. Inner Zip
When Hermès crafted Jane’s Original Birkin prototype, the zippers were sourced from the Éclair company. In the 1990s, Hermès formed a partnership with Riri, which remains the exclusive manufacturer of zippers for Birkin bags to this day.
7. Stamped J.B
Jane’s Original Birkin was deeply personal to her, proudly bearing her initials, “J.B.,” stamped on the front flap. It quickly became her favorite accessory—one she often held close, cradling it with both arms and carrying it everywhere she went. The bag’s worn condition tells the story of years of dedicated use by the actress and singer, embodying both her style and spirit.
Final Fun Fact: The Nail Clipper
Known for her effortlessly cool, tomboy-chic style, Jane Birkin preferred a natural look over long, painted nails. To keep her nails neatly trimmed on the go, she kept a nail clipper attached to a chain hanging from the base of the shoulder strap inside her bag for easy and frequent use.
Jane Birkin's Original Birkin at Sotheby's
Sotheby’s is honored to present Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin in its upcoming Fashion Icons sale in Paris, from June 26 to July 10, 2025. The auction offers a historic opportunity to acquire the Original Hermès Birkin, the prototype that sparked a cultural phenomenon and redefined luxury.
Before the sale, the Original Birkin will be exhibited in New York from June 6 to June 12, 2025, at Sotheby’s headquarters at 1334 York Avenue, New York, NY 10021.
The bag is presented in the exact condition in which Jane last used it, still bearing her initials “J.B.” and featuring her nail clipper hanging from the strap—a testament to its deeply personal significance. It is crafted in Hermès Black Box leather with gilded brass hardware, a feature that was soon replaced with gold-plated hardware in commercial models. Its unique construction, a hybrid of the Birkin 35’s width and height and the Birkin 40’s depth, adds to its one-of-a-kind status. Other notable elements include closed metal rings (similar to the HAC model), a non-removable shoulder strap, smaller bottom studs, and an inner zip from the “éclair” company.
This auction marks the first time in nearly 25 years that Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin will be available for acquisition, offering bidders a rare chance to own a piece of fashion history and the origin of one of the world’s most iconic bags.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Bags on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin and Kelly bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin and Kelly bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin and Kelly bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin or Kelly bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin or Kelly bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin or Kelly Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin or Kelly that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin or Kelly.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique Hermès bags or rare limited edition Birkin and Kelly bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin and Kelly bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkins at Sotheby’s
Sotheby's can assist with buying or selling your next Hermès Birkin. Sotheby's handbag auctions always feature rare and collectible Birkin bags. We also have a carefully curated selection of Birkin bags in pristine and excellent condition, available for immediate shipping. Expect to find the most popular Hermès Birkins in leather and exotic materials, new colors with 2024 date stamps, classic neutrals in all sizes and rare limited edition bags. We accept Birkin bags for consignment at auction and marketplace. Prices for Birkin bags range from $20,000 to $35,000 for leather while exotic Birkin bags are generally priced at $40,000 plus with Himalaya Birkin bags priced over $100,000.
- Browse Hermès Birkin available for immediate delivery.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions across the globe.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès Birkin bag.
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