As fall dressing takes shape, handbags are shifting with it. Suede and fringe are returning alongside richer shades of burgundy, while oversized proportions and elongated east-west silhouettes offer a counterpoint to the compact bags that have dominated recent seasons. Many of these ideas already have a natural counterpart in the Hermès archive, making the secondary market a compelling place to look for bags that feel especially relevant now.
This month, our specialists selected eight Hermès bags that speak directly to the season. A fringed Doblis Sac Trim Anate and Rouge Vif suede Kelly 28 bring texture into the mix, while Birkin 40s embrace the return of larger bags. Rouge H and Rouge Grenat offer two approaches to fall’s continued interest in burgundy, and the horizontal proportions of the JPG Shoulder Birkin and Kelly Cut align with the shift toward east-west shapes. Together, the edit shows how current fashion can bring a new perspective to Hermès designs from across decades.
Suede and Fringe Set the Tone for Fall
Texture is playing a bigger role in fall accessories, bringing suede and fringe back into focus. Hermès Doblis, the house’s velvety suede leather, gives the trend a more refined expression and appears here in two very different bags: a fringed Sac Trim Anate and a Rouge Vif Kelly 28.
Hermès Orange Doblis Sac Trim Fringe Anate Hobo, $8,400
The Hermès Orange Doblis Sac Trim Fringe Anate Hobo from 2006 brings together two of fall’s strongest textural ideas in one design. Long fringe extends from the soft Doblis body, emphasizing the relaxed shape and giving the bag movement. The orange color adds another dimension, offering a warmer alternative to the browns and neutrals typically associated with suede.
Its hobo silhouette also feels well suited to the season’s preference for softer, less structured bags. Rather than treating fringe as a decorative accent, the Sac Trim Anate makes it central to the design, creating a more directional Hermès option for fall.
Hermès Rouge Vif Doblis Retourne Kelly 28, $29,900
Red continues into fall in deeper, richer applications, and the Hermès Rouge Vif Doblis Retourne Kelly 28 from 2004 combines the color with another key material of the season. Doblis gives Rouge Vif a soft, velvety finish, while gold hardware adds warmth against the saturated red.
The Retourne construction is an important part of the look. Its softer edges give the Kelly 28 a more relaxed profile than a Sellier version, complementing the tactile quality of the suede. The result is a Kelly that still carries the proportions of the classic design but feels distinctly suited to fall.
Big Bags Are Back: The Return of the Birkin 40
After seasons dominated by mini and compact bags, larger silhouettes are moving back into focus for fall. The Birkin 40 offers a natural way into the trend, with proportions that give the classic Birkin a noticeably different presence. This season, larger scale also creates an opportunity to lean into substantial leathers and exotic skins that make even more of an impact across a 40-centimeter silhouette.
Hermès Gris Tourterelle Shiny Porosus Crocodile Birkin 40, $74,500
The Hermès Gris Tourterelle Shiny Porosus Crocodile Birkin 40 from 2016 combines the return of oversized bags with another fall direction: exotic skins. Shiny porosus crocodile gives the expansive Birkin 40 a glossy finish that emphasizes the natural pattern of the skin, while Gris Tourterelle keeps the overall palette understated. Gold hardware introduces warmth against the cool-toned gray.
Scale is what transforms the effect. On a Birkin 40, the crocodile pattern has considerably more surface area than it would on a smaller Birkin, making the material a defining part of the bag rather than a subtle detail. It is a bold interpretation of the larger-bag trend without relying on bright color to make an impact.
Hermès Vintage Naturel Vache Hunter Birkin 40, $21,500
For a more relaxed take on the same proportions, the Hermès Vintage Naturel Vache Hunter Birkin 40 from 2001 pairs the larger silhouette with a warm natural leather. Vache Hunter has a firm hand and develops character through wear, giving this vintage Birkin a different sensibility from more polished interpretations of the style.
The Naturel shade works easily with a fall wardrobe, especially against heavier fabrics and an earthier seasonal palette. At 40 centimeters, the Birkin also offers the generous proportions now returning to fashion, making this 2001 example feel surprisingly aligned with the direction of bags more than two decades later.
Burgundy Remains a Fall Essential
Burgundy continues to be one of the defining colors for fall, and the Hermès palette offers several nuanced interpretations of the shade. Rouge H brings a deep, wine-toned quality with strong ties to the house, while Rouge Grenat offers a richer red with a slightly different intensity. On a Kelly and Birkin respectively, the colors also show how burgundy can shift depending on the leather and silhouette.
Hermès Vintage Rouge H Box Calf Sellier Kelly 28, $15,500
The Hermès Vintage Rouge H Box Calf Sellier Kelly 28 from 1998 makes a strong case for looking to vintage Hermès when dressing around fall color. Rouge H is one of the house’s longstanding shades, with its deep red-brown tone taking on added richness in smooth Box Calf leather. Gold hardware further warms the palette.
Sellier construction gives the Kelly 28 its crisp, defined shape, creating a polished contrast to the depth of the color. The combination feels especially right for fall: dark enough to work alongside seasonal neutrals but with considerably more presence than black or brown.
Hermès Rouge Grenat Togo Birkin 35, $17,700
The Hermès Rouge Grenat Togo Birkin 35 from 2016 approaches burgundy with a softer structure and a more casual finish. Togo leather brings visible grain and a relaxed quality to the Birkin 35, while Rouge Grenat delivers the saturated, dark red that has become such a prominent part of the fall palette.
The 35-centimeter size also gives the color room to register without pushing into the oversized proportions of the Birkin 40. Paired with gold hardware, Rouge Grenat feels rich and seasonal while remaining versatile enough to carry well beyond fall.
East-West Bags Stretch Out for Fall
The shift toward east-west bags continues into fall, with elongated silhouettes offering a change from the upright proportions of traditional top-handle styles. Hermès has explored this horizontal shape in several forms over the years, including Jean Paul Gaultier’s Shoulder Birkin and the sleek Kelly Cut. Both feel newly relevant as fashion moves toward bags that emphasize width and a lower profile.
Hermès Etain Togo JPG Shoulder Birkin 42, $32,000
The Hermès Etain Togo JPG Shoulder Birkin 42 from 2012 pushes the proportions of the classic Birkin dramatically outward. Originally conceived during Jean Paul Gaultier’s tenure at Hermès, the Shoulder Birkin retains defining elements of the original while reworking them into a wider, shallower silhouette designed to sit beneath the arm.
At 42 centimeters, the bag has the scale of the larger styles returning for fall while its horizontal construction connects directly to the east-west trend. Etain Togo keeps the palette grounded, with gold hardware providing a warm contrast to the cool gray leather. It is a very different expression of the Birkin, and one that feels remarkably current more than a decade after this example was made.
Hermès Havane Shiny Niloticus Crocodile Kelly Cut Pochette, $65,900
The Hermès Havane Shiny Niloticus Crocodile Kelly Cut Pochette from 2011 takes the east-west silhouette in a much slimmer direction. The Kelly Cut stretches elements of the Kelly across a long, narrow pochette, creating a streamlined shape that can be carried by its small top handle or held as a clutch.
Shiny Niloticus crocodile gives the Havane brown greater depth, making the surface of the bag as important as its proportions. Against fall tailoring and heavier textures, the narrow silhouette provides a sharp counterpoint without feeling delicate. It also shows just how varied the east-west trend can be, moving from the generous scale of the Shoulder Birkin to one of Hermès’ most streamlined interpretations of the Kelly.
Hermès Bags for the Fall Season
This September edit shows how closely some of fall’s biggest handbag trends intersect with the Hermès archive. Suede and fringe bring texture back into focus, larger Birkins answer the return of more generous proportions and Rouge H and Rouge Grenat offer sophisticated takes on the season’s continued interest in burgundy. The renewed appetite for east-west bags also puts styles such as the JPG Shoulder Birkin and Kelly Cut in a fresh context.
What feels current, however, is not limited to recent releases. Several of these Hermès bags date back more than a decade, yet their materials, colors and proportions align naturally with the way bags are being worn now. Looking across different periods of Hermès production opens up a broader range of possibilities for fall, from vintage Kelly and Birkin styles to less conventional silhouettes that are finding their moment again.
Buy and Sell Hermès Bags with Sotheby’s
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of luxury handbags, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Hermès bags on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection
Explore rare and iconic handbags, from Herbag, Garden Party, and Evelyne TPM bags starting around $3,000 to highly sought-after Birkin and Kelly bags exceeding $100,000 for the rarest limited-edition pieces. - Exclusive Global Access
Shop handbags through auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors. - Flexible Ways to Buy
Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated handbags concierge. - Exceptional Value
Every bag is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
Discover vintage and modern Hermès bags across all price points, with new pieces added regularly.
Ready to Get Started?
- Browse Sotheby's upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
- Shop Sotheby's Buy Now handbags for instant access to available inventory
- Speak with a Sotheby's handbags specialist to consign or request a valuation for a Hermès bag
Trust our worldwide network of leading luxury specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.