History of the Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag story began in 1984 when actress and singer Jane Birkin met Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London. During their conversation, Birkin expressed her need for a functional yet stylish bag, which led to the creation of the now-famous Original Jane Birkin bag. Jane's original Birkin bag was black with gold hardware and the same width is the current Birkin 35 but had the depth of the Birkin 40.
The Birkin bag's innovative design at the time is in most ways unchanged today. It features two rolled handles, a flap top, clou “feet,” and a lock closure. This practical and elegant design has continued to capture the hearts of Hermès collectors and luxury bag lovers around the world. The Birkin is meticulously crafted by expert trained artisans who spend a minimum of 18 hours on each piece. A single artisan creates and assembles the entire bag versus more modern assembly line manufacturing. Each Birkin bag carries a unique code indicating the year it was made, the workshop where it was crafted, and the artisan responsible for its creation.
Acquiring a Birkin directly from Hermès is no easy feat. Customers must have a purchase history with the brand, and boutiques are only allowed to order a limited number of Birkins twice a year. Moreover, the styles of Birkin bags received by the boutiques are often a surprise, making it difficult for customers to secure their desired bag. This exclusivity adds to the allure of the Hermès Birkin bag. The Birkin bag was $2,000 in 1984 when it was first produced but now retails for $9,000 for a Birkin 25 in Togo leather. All Birkins have one interior side pocket and the rest of the bag is a single compartment. The bottom base holds it shape and doesn't buckle even after years of use. The popularity of the Birkin bag continues to grow with over 1 million monthly searches for the bag.
Birkin Bag Sizes
The Birkin bag comes in four standard sizes: Birkin 25, Birkin 30, Birkin 35, and Birkin 40. The Birkin 20 is the smallest size and is currently available in alligator and as a Limited Edition Birkin Faubourg. A Birkin’s size is determined by its length in centimeters across the base. For example, a Birkin 35 has a length of 35 centimeters across the base of the bag. While the Birkin 35 and Birkin 40 were the original sizes, the Birkin 30 and Birkin 25 are the most popular today. The Shoulder Birkin or JPG Birkin first produced in 2004 is unique in that the handles are long enough to wear over the shoulder. The JPG Birkin or Shoulder Birkin was available in two sizes, 40 and 42 centimeters and was discontinued in 2013. Hermès reintroduced the Shoulder Birkin in 2024 in deep indigo denim and black swift leather with palladium hardware. The rarest Birkin size is the Micro Birkin 15 only produced in 2011 and 2012 created by Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Classic Birkin Bag Materials
The Birkin has been reinvented many times since its introduction in 1984 with the help of leathers, exotic skins, and limited edition releases. The bag first appeared in calfbox leather, a heritage leather and the oldest leather used by Hermès. This leather has an extremely smooth finish that gives Birkins an extra glamorous look. The material is susceptible to scratches and watermarks, but over time these imperfections blend into the bag, adding a mirror-like texture. To ensure that your calfbox Birkin remains in good shape, keep it away from rain and lightly buff any imperfections to blend them into the leather. Togo leather is the most popular classic option for Birkin bags. Introduced in 1997, this calfskin leather was named after the Togolese Republic in Africa. This leather is the result of an intensive drumming process that brings out the material’s natural features. Togo is a supple, matte material, but becomes shinier and softer over time. It has a round and irregular grain with pronounced veins and wrinkles. This material is also scratch resistant -- a major perk for both collectors and those searching for a durable Hermès bag.
Another standard Birkin leather is Clemence, which is made from cowhide. This leather is softer, heavier, and less durable than Togo. Clemence Birkins will often lose their shape over time. Clemence has a shallow grainy texture, which creates a matte effect. Birkin bags made from Clemence leather have a casual feel and make no effort to hide their age. Epsom leather is Clemence’s opposite: Epsom is rigid and will hold the Birkin’s shape through years of wear. Epsom is an embossed leather, meaning it has no natural grain, and is completely scratch and water resistant, which makes it easy to clean. Epsom leather is a very practical material. Like Epsom, Fjord leather is highly durable and also waterproof, soft, matte and heavy. Evercolor leather provides a Birkin with suppleness and it comes in a wide palette of “forever” colors. First appearing in 2012, this material is satiny with a small, regular grain obtained by printing. An all-new heritage leather option is the Barenia Faubourg calfskin that Hermès began using in 2016. It has a minuscule printed grain and feels waxy to the touch. This leather will darken where it is handled. You can find Hermès leather Birkin bags in every color of the rainbow on the secondary market. The most classic Birkin colors are black, etoupe and gold.
Birkin Bag Hardware Options
Hermès Birkins are typically crafted with two types of hardware: 18-karat gold plated or palladium. The Birkin hardware includes the front facing lock closure, a lock and set of keys, the zipper, and metal feet called clou that allow the Birkin to always sit upright. Limited edition Birkins may have more unique hardware. Some examples of rarer metals include 24-karat gold, rose gold, permabrass, brush palladium, brushed gold, guilloche, ruthenium, or matte black hardware. The rarest hardware is the 18-karat white gold-plated diamond-encrusted hardware found on ultra glamorous Diamond Birkins bags. Hermès only releases a few Diamond Birkins annually and they are usually constructed with crocodile skin.
Exotic Birkin Bag
Birkin handbags also come in exotic materials such as ostrich, lizard, crocodile, and alligator skins, available in shiny and matte finishes. The most popular exotic Birkins are in crocodile and alligator. Exotic Birkin bags are much rarer than leather bags and sell for much more at retail and in the secondary market. Crocodile is the most expensive exotic material and comes in two styles: Niloticus crocodile and Porosus crocodile. Niloticus crocodile handbags will have the symbol “••” next to the Hermés logo stamp while Porosus crocodile handbags are indicated by the symbol “^”.
The most expensive Hermès Birkin, the Himalaya Birkin, is Niloticus crocodile skin that is buffed to create the ombre gradient exterior. The coloring is intended to evoke the white snow of the Himalaya Mountains. Alligator skins are the next most expensive exotic material and differ from crocodile in that the plates are larger and non uniformed, softer to the touch, and poreless. Alligator skin is indicated by a small square adjacent to the Hermès logo stamp. Lizard skin is generally only used in smaller bags and small leather goods. As a result, Hermès typically uses the material for the Birkin 25 or Birkin 20. Thanks to the skin’s ability to absorb pigments easily, lizard Birkins are available in a vivid array of colors. Like crocodile, this luxurious skin has two styles. Niloticus lizard is identified by the “-” next to the Hermès logo stamp and Varanus Salvator lizard is indicated with a “=” symbol.
Out of all the exotic materials, ostrich has the most entry-level price point and is the most durable. This material has been used by Hermès since the 1920s. Identifiable by its follicles, the points from which the feathers grow, this skin has a very pronounced dual tone. In order to prevent follicle damage, Hermès flattens the follicles and triples the skin. This material absorbs oils and will darken over time where it is frequently touched. Like lizard, this material is available in an assortment of vivid colorways. Ostrich skin bags do not have a special symbol stamped on the bag.
Birkin Bag Sellier
Hermés Birkin Sellier was first introduced in 2010 as a limited edition option and was reintroduced in 2020. The classic Hermés Birkins have stitching on the interior of the bag while the Birkin Sellier has stitching on the outside. The Birkin Sellier is also more structured than the classic style, also known as Retourne. The stitching on the inside gives the bag a more relaxed look versus the exterior stitching. The Birkin Sellier is also potentially a better style for humid Asian countries since it is less likely to lose its shape versus the traditional Retourne leather Birkin bags. The only potential downside to the more structured style is that the corners could be more prone to getting scratched and marked. While the retail price of the Sellier Birkin is only slightly higher than the classic Birkin, the bag generally sells for a premium in the secondary market due to much more limited availability.
Hermès Special Order or HSS Birkin Bag
Hermès also offers Special Order Birkin Bags for VIP customers who have demonstrated considerable loyalty to the brand. These Special Order (HSS) Birkin bags began to feature an embossed Horseshoe Stamp next to the Hermès logo stamp about ten years ago. The stamp has earned these ultra-rare Hermès bags the name Horseshoe Stamp bags or HSS bags. HSS Birkins used to be highly customizable, but now the options for these Hermès bags are more restricted due to high demand. Today, most VIP clients are allowed to choose just two colors to appear on a single Special Order bag. The two colors can both appear on the outside of the bag, or the bag can have one color on the inside and the other on the outside. The stitching can either be in the same color as the leather, or can contrast the leather. The vast majority of Special Orders are crafted in leather, including epsom, togo, chevre, clemence, swift and the new taurillon novillo. Ostrich bi-colors are occasionally available as well. Crocodile and alligator Special Orders are extremely rare, and make them truly a unique collector's item. Given that Horseshoe Stamp Special Order bags are rare and require such a long wait time and a strong purchase history, they often sell at a premium in the secondary market. But owning such a unique bag makes the purchase a worthwhile to the dedicated Hermès collector.
Limited Edition Birkin Bag
Hermès releases limited edition Birkins each season with some bags being available for only one season and one color, while some limited edition Birkins are available for a few years and in several color variations. Some the most sought after limited edition Birkins include the So Black collection from Jean-Paul Gaultier and the Metallic Birkins from 2005. The Shadow Birkin, also designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier was first introduced in 2009 and then reintroduced in 2019. This Hermès Birkin draws influence from trompe l’oeil and features sangles and flap that is embossed without metal hardware. This technique creates the illusion of buckle straps dangling from the Hermès bag. Other popular more recent limited editions include the Picnic Birkin and Cargo Birkin. The Hermès Faubourg Birkin is one of the most sought-after limited edition Birkin bags. An homage to the Hermès storefront on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, this bag features three windows with orange awnings and an alligator top flap. This tiny 20 centimeter Birkin comes in size variations.
Why are Birkins So Expensive?
1. Craftsmanship: Every Birkin bag is hand crafted by a single trained artisan and requires a minimum of 18 hours to complete. Artisans are trained for five years so they can master every element of making the bag including leather cutting, stitching and assembly.
2. Limited Supply: Even the best Hermès customers can not walk into a boutique and pick from a selection of Birkin bags. The available supply is limited due to number of trained artisans and the time required to train new artisans.
3. Quota System: Hermès has a quota limit in place for its most popular bags including the Birkin, Kelly and Constance. Clients can only purchase two quota bags per year.
4. Market Demand: There are over 1.3 million monthly searches for the Birkin every month. The Birkin remains an icon in the fashion world, highly sought-after by celebrities, top luxury buyers and the bag-obsessed.
5. Secondary Market Premium: While the retail price of the most popular Birkin 30 in Togo leather of $12,500 is at the high end of luxury bags, the secondary market premium is the highest of any brand. A pristine Togo leather Birkin 30 sells for between $25,000 to $30,000 at Sotheby's.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Birkin on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Birkin bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition Birkin bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Birkin bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
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