The Best Hermès Bags from Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Game-Changing Designs That Redefined Hermès and Elevated Collecting
Jean-Paul Gaultier: A Transformative Era for Hermès
More widely known for Madonna’s iconic cone bra and sculptural perfume bottles, Jean-Paul Gaultier occupies a singular place in the hearts of Hermès collectors. The visionary French designer sold 35% of his namesake label to Hermès in 1999, and just four years later was appointed the House’s Creative Director. His first runway show for Hermès in Fall 2004 marked a striking departure from Martin Margiela’s understated, refined approach. Confident in the brand’s uncompromising commitment to materials and craftsmanship, Gaultier turned his attention to design—boldly reimagining Hermès codes for the runway. Kelly closures adorned trench coats, the signature Bolduc ribbon danced across dresses, and leather whips swung alongside handbags, infusing the House’s equestrian heritage with a daring new edge.
Hermès Runway Bag Era
Unlike his predecessor Margiela, Gaultier embraced the runway bag as an extension of his vision. His debut collection introduced not only his distinctive JPG Shoulder Birkin but also the now-classic Kelly Pochette, which has become a fixture in Hermès offerings ever since. That same year, the 25cm Birkin arrived, eventually overtaking the once-standard 35cm as the most sought-after size. In the seasons that followed, collectors saw the debut of styles that are now Hermès staples, including the Medor clutch and the Lindy. Over Gaultier’s tenure, the Kelly Longue gave way to the Kelly Cut, while the Jypsiere—conceived as a crossbody Birkin—emerged as one of his most enduring designs. Initially crafted in exotic materials like suede and nubuck crocodile, the Jypsiere later arrived in classic leathers in boutiques worldwide. Another standout, the Kelly Danse, was discontinued for a time but has since returned, while the elusive Kelly Flat remains a coveted piece yet to be revived.
The Return of the Shoulder Birkin
In 2025, Hermès paid tribute to Jean-Paul Gaultier’s influential era by unveiling the new Shoulder Birkin Light—an homage to the original JPG Shoulder Birkin that first turned heads on the runway in 2004. This reimagined version keeps the spirit of Gaultier’s design alive, balancing the beloved slouchy silhouette with a lighter, more streamlined construction suited for modern collectors. Crafted for comfort and ease, the Shoulder Birkin Light debuted in Caban Evercolor leather with the same iconic casual elegance that made the original so coveted.
Just as the original JPG Shoulder Birkin embraced Gaultier’s playful yet practical twist on a classic, the 2025 version reaffirms Hermès’ commitment to honoring its design heritage while meeting the demands of today’s collectors. Early sightings of the Shoulder Birkin Light in Chicago—a nod to the city’s “Big Shoulders” nickname—have already made it one of the year’s most talked-about releases. For collectors, the Shoulder Birkin Light bridges past and present, proving once again that Gaultier’s legacy at Hermès remains as relevant and desirable as ever.
One-of-a-Kind Runway Creations
One of Gaultier’s lasting contributions to Hermès is his legacy of extraordinary runway bags. Alongside leather classics, Gaultier sent striking one-offs down the runway—crafted from silk, fur, and suede, and often adorned with unconventional embellishments. Hermès scarves found new life as bag materials, as did knits, shagreen, python, and metal studs. Select runway designs made it into limited production: the Mouton Shearling Teddy Kelly debuted on the catwalk before finding its way into collectors’ vaults, just like the 35cm Picnic Kelly and the Shadow Birkin. While unique Himalayan Birkins appeared as early as 2008, a 30cm version made a memorable appearance on Gaultier’s Spring 2010 runway, sparking fervent demand. A 25cm Himalayan and a Gris Cendre 30 Birkin walked the following season, further stoking collectors’ fascination.
Gaultier’s Final Runway Shows
True to form, Gaultier’s final collections for Hermès were punctuated by some of the brand’s most coveted creations. The Fall 2010 show unveiled the 40cm Teddy Kelly alongside the ultra-sleek So Black collection, distinguished by black PVD hardware and matching black packaging—a collector’s favorite to this day. His Spring 2011 farewell runway introduced the 15cm Micro Birkin, later immortalized in Christophe Lemaire’s Candy Collection, as well as the return of the Picnic Kelly and the elusive Kelly Bandeau, which models memorably styled as a tube top. Today, runway bags from Gaultier’s transformative era remain among the most prized in the world of Hermès collecting. While some of his audacious ideas live on as collector’s secrets, others have earned their place in the pantheon of handbag history.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Bags on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin and Kelly bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin and Kelly bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags.`
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin and Kelly bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin or Kelly bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin or Kelly bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin or Kelly Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin or Kelly that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin or Kelly.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique Hermès bags or rare limited edition Birkin and Kelly bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin and Kelly bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Bags at Sotheby’s
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
