The Five Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces
Discover the five most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces, showcasing the maison’s unmatched artistry, rare gemstones, and timeless design.
Brief Background Van Cleef and Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels has long been synonymous with innovation, elegance, and masterful craftsmanship in high jewelry. Founded in 1895 by Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels, the maison opened its first boutique on Paris’s Place Vendôme in 1906. It quickly earned acclaim for its poetic designs and pioneering techniques, including the patented Mystery Set—an invisible setting style that became one of the house's signatures. Over the decades, Van Cleef has become especially revered for its necklaces, which often feature transformable elements, rare gemstones, and a distinctive blend of classic and contemporary motifs. Whether crafted for royalty, celebrities, or discerning collectors, Van Cleef necklaces exemplify the highest ideals of French luxury and artistry.
As interest in vintage and signed jewels surges, Van Cleef necklaces remain among the most sought-after, especially those with exceptional provenance, rarity, or historical significance. Below, we explore five of the most breathtaking and expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces sold at auction since 2022.
1. Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, $3,600,000
The Van Cleef Rare Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, sold for a record-breaking $3,600,000 in June 2024, stands as the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ever sold at auction. Crafted circa1929, this exquisite design features graduated diamond-set links with elongated, partially rotating tassel motifs that exude fluidity and versatility. With an internal circumference of 19¼ inches, the necklace is signed “Van Cleef Arpels,” numbered Paris 33025, and bears French assay marks. The piece exemplifies the maison’s embrace of Art Deco aesthetics, harmonizing sleek geometry with elegance, and was likely worn with the bias-cut evening gowns popular in the interwar period.
Tie-necklaces like this one were an innovative introduction by Van Cleef & Arpels during the late 1920s and early 1930s. Designed to mimic the appearance of fabric ties or scarves, they could be draped stylishly across the décolletage or wrapped like a cravat. Their architectural lines and transformable features made them an icon of Art Deco jewelry. With only a handful ever produced, these rare creations were favored by celebrities and fashion editors alike. This particular necklace is a dazzling embodiment of the maison's technical mastery and creative vision.
2. Van Cleef Emerald Necklace, $2,140,800
This Van Cleef Emerald, Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Pendent Necklace sold for just over $2 million in October 2022, making it the second most expensive Van Cleef necklace sold at auction. Two detachable pendent brooches, designed with carved emeralds and ruby heads, are accentuated by ruby beads and single-cut diamonds, all further highlighted by brilliant and rose-cut diamonds. Onyx beads lend an additional layer of contrast and texture to the white gold setting. The showstopper of the necklace is a translucent, pear-shaped carved emerald measuring approximately 38.9 x 31.0 x 14.8 mm. Displaying a medium green hue with strong saturation, this stone alone elevates the necklace to the realm of exceptional. The intricate use of color, bold gemstone carving, and convertible elements make this a quintessential example of Van Cleef’s imaginative design approach.
3. Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, $1,289,900
This Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, the third most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $1,289,900 in May 2025. This piece is a remarkable illustration of Van Cleef & Arpels' talent for designing transformable jewelry that seamlessly combines technical ingenuity with timeless sophistication.
Highly articulated and styled in the form of a wreath, the necklace is set throughout with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Its elegant design culminates in a detachable tassel, which features a cascade of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Measuring approximately 520mm in length, the necklace is signed VCA NY and bears numbered marks along with French assay stamps for platinum and gold. The detachable tassel can be worn separately as a brooch using a discreet fitting adorned with baguette-cut diamonds—an elegant nod to Van Cleef’s mid-century affinity for versatility and multi-functionality in jewelry. The flexibility of the necklace’s links and the sophisticated mechanics of its transformable design make it a standout among collectors. This masterwork exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring appeal and dedication to excellence in both form and function.
4. Van Cleef Necklace Mystery-Set Ruby & Diamond, $673,100
This 'Mystery-Set' Ruby and Diamond Necklace, the fourth most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $673,100 in April 2023 and features one of the maison’s most iconic innovations: the Mystery Set. Introduced and patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, the Mystery Set technique allows gemstones to be mounted invisibly, with no visible prongs or metal separating the stones. This 1995 necklace employs the setting to showcase a series of graduated scroll motifs, meticulously inlaid with calibré-cut rubies over a pavé-set diamond ground.
The rubies exhibit a medium red color with strong saturation and only slight inclusions, while the diamonds—estimated to weigh between 60.00 and 70.00 carats—are of F-G color and VVS-VS clarity. This extraordinary piece was part of the Wolf Family Collection, a group of prized jewels sold in 2023. The technical complexity, visual impact, and rarity of this necklace underscore why Mystery Set creations are so treasured among collectors and enthusiasts of haute joaillerie.
5. Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Necklace and Pair of Earrings, $456,000
The fifth most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $456,000 in June 2024, offers a striking blend of color and craftsmanship. Designed around 1950, the necklace features a line of graduated cushion-cut sapphires flanked by old European-cut diamonds. Suspended from this line are seven detachable drops, each echoing the sapphire-diamond motif. The necklace measures 14 inches in internal circumference and is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels," with the serial number N.Y. 3187.
The sapphires, which range in tone from light to medium slightly violetish blue, total approximately 300.00–330.00 carats, with the largest individual stone weighing around 22.15 carats. Mounted in platinum and accompanied by a pair of unsigned but complementary earclips, the necklace retains signs of light wear but remains in excellent overall condition. This ensemble showcases the maison's mid-century mastery and its ability to harmonize opulent gemstones with refined design.
From Art Deco masterpieces to mid-century marvels and contemporary reinterpretations, Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces continue to dazzle the jewelry world with their beauty, complexity, and cultural significance. Each of these five necklaces exemplifies different facets of the maison’s extraordinary legacy—whether through revolutionary techniques like the Mystery Set, the clever use of transformable elements, or the sheer opulence of exceptional gemstones. As collectors continue to seek out rare and iconic pieces, Van Cleef & Arpels remains a name that defines excellence in haute joaillerie—and these remarkable necklaces are a testament to its enduring allure.4oSelect 5 more words to run Humanizer.
Why is Van Cleef So Expensive?
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and timeless designs, making it one of the most prestigious jewelry houses in the world. Established in 1906, the brand has built a legacy of innovation, introducing signature techniques like the Mystery Set, which allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs. Each piece undergoes meticulous handcrafting, often requiring hundreds of hours of labor to achieve the maison’s signature level of artistry. Van Cleef’s use of the finest diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires further contributes to its exclusivity, with many pieces featuring gemstones of unparalleled quality and rarity. The brand’s association with royalty, celebrities, and collectors—along with limited production—drives immense demand, resulting in high prices and increasing value over time. Vintage and high-jewelry creations regularly achieve record-breaking auction results, reinforcing Van Cleef & Arpels’ status as a symbol of luxury and refinement.
Advantages to Buying Van Cleef & Arpels on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Van Cleef & Arpels pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from collectors around the world.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Van Cleef & Arpels pieces not available online.
3. Value
While Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Van Cleef & Arpelstreasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.
4. Discovery
One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Van Cleef & Arpels stores. Our curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.
Buy and Sell Van Cleef & Arpels Necklaces at Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Van Cleef necklace, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces from its global supplier network.
The price of a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ranges from around $7,000 for a basic Alhambra pendant necklace to over $250,000 for a gold and diamond Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. Most Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces range from $20,000 - $100,000 if the necklace has diamonds and other gemstones. The size, quality and quantity of the diamonds and gemstones in addition to the craftsmanship of the design all factor into the price of a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. Additionally rare vintage or custom designed Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces are more expensive than a style that was made in larger quantities and is readily available on the secondary market.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Contact a Salon Associate in New Yorkor Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling Van Cleef & Arpels necklace.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
