The Five Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces
Discover the five most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces, showcasing the maison’s unmatched artistry, rare gemstones, and timeless design.
Brief Background Van Cleef and Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels has long been synonymous with innovation, elegance, and masterful craftsmanship in high jewelry. Founded in 1895 by Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels, the maison opened its first boutique on Paris’s Place Vendôme in 1906. It quickly earned acclaim for its poetic designs and pioneering techniques, including the patented Mystery Set—an invisible setting style that became one of the house's signatures. Over the decades, Van Cleef has become especially revered for its necklaces, which often feature transformable elements, rare gemstones, and a distinctive blend of classic and contemporary motifs. Whether crafted for royalty, celebrities, or discerning collectors, Van Cleef necklaces exemplify the highest ideals of French luxury and artistry.
As interest in vintage and signed jewels surges, Van Cleef necklaces remain among the most sought-after, especially those with exceptional provenance, rarity, or historical significance. Below, we explore five of the most breathtaking and expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces sold at auction since 2022.
Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces
| Rank | Model | Price |
| 1 | Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace | $3,600,000 |
| 2 | Van Cleef Emerald Necklace | $2,140,800 |
| 3 | Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch | $1,289,900 |
| 4 | Van Cleef Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond | $673,100 |
| 5 | Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond Necklace–Bracelet–Clip-Brooch Combination | $457,200 |
1. Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, $3,600,000
The Van Cleef Rare Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, sold for a record-breaking $3,600,000 in June 2024, stands as the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ever sold at auction. Crafted circa1929, this exquisite design features graduated diamond-set links with elongated, partially rotating tassel motifs that exude fluidity and versatility. With an internal circumference of 19¼ inches, the necklace is signed “Van Cleef Arpels,” numbered Paris 33025, and bears French assay marks. The piece exemplifies the maison’s embrace of Art Deco aesthetics, harmonizing sleek geometry with elegance, and was likely worn with the bias-cut evening gowns popular in the interwar period.
Tie-necklaces like this one were an innovative introduction by Van Cleef & Arpels during the late 1920s and early 1930s. Designed to mimic the appearance of fabric ties or scarves, they could be draped stylishly across the décolletage or wrapped like a cravat. Their architectural lines and transformable features made them an icon of Art Deco jewelry. With only a handful ever produced, these rare creations were favored by celebrities and fashion editors alike. This particular necklace is a dazzling embodiment of the maison's technical mastery and creative vision.
2. Van Cleef Emerald Necklace, $2,140,800
This Van Cleef Emerald, Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Pendent Necklace sold for just over $2 million in October 2022, making it the second most expensive Van Cleef necklace sold at auction. Two detachable pendent brooches, designed with carved emeralds and ruby heads, are accentuated by ruby beads and single-cut diamonds, all further highlighted by brilliant and rose-cut diamonds. Onyx beads lend an additional layer of contrast and texture to the white gold setting. The showstopper of the necklace is a translucent, pear-shaped carved emerald measuring approximately 38.9 x 31.0 x 14.8 mm. Displaying a medium green hue with strong saturation, this stone alone elevates the necklace to the realm of exceptional. The intricate use of color, bold gemstone carving, and convertible elements make this a quintessential example of Van Cleef’s imaginative design approach.
3. Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, $1,289,900
This Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, the third most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $1,289,900 in May 2025. This piece is a remarkable illustration of Van Cleef & Arpels' talent for designing transformable jewelry that seamlessly combines technical ingenuity with timeless sophistication.
Highly articulated and styled in the form of a wreath, the necklace is set throughout with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Its elegant design culminates in a detachable tassel, which features a cascade of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Measuring approximately 520mm in length, the necklace is signed VCA NY and bears numbered marks along with French assay stamps for platinum and gold. The detachable tassel can be worn separately as a brooch using a discreet fitting adorned with baguette-cut diamonds—an elegant nod to Van Cleef’s mid-century affinity for versatility and multi-functionality in jewelry. The flexibility of the necklace’s links and the sophisticated mechanics of its transformable design make it a standout among collectors. This masterwork exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring appeal and dedication to excellence in both form and function.
4. Van Cleef Necklace Mystery-Set Ruby & Diamond, $673,100
This 'Mystery-Set' Ruby and Diamond Necklace, the fourth most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $673,100 in April 2023 and features one of the maison’s most iconic innovations: the Mystery Set. Introduced and patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, the Mystery Set technique allows gemstones to be mounted invisibly, with no visible prongs or metal separating the stones. This 1995 necklace employs the setting to showcase a series of graduated scroll motifs, meticulously inlaid with calibré-cut rubies over a pavé-set diamond ground.
The rubies exhibit a medium red color with strong saturation and only slight inclusions, while the diamonds—estimated to weigh between 60.00 and 70.00 carats—are of F-G color and VVS-VS clarity. This extraordinary piece was part of the Wolf Family Collection, a group of prized jewels sold in 2023. The technical complexity, visual impact, and rarity of this necklace underscore why Mystery Set creations are so treasured among collectors and enthusiasts of haute joaillerie.
5. Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond Necklace–Bracelet–Clip-Brooch Combination, $457,200
The Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond Necklace–Bracelet–Clip-Brooch Combination sold for $457,200 in December 2025, securing its place among the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces ever sold at auction. Created circa 1965, this exceptional convertible jewel exemplifies the maison’s mastery of versatility and refined design, featuring a necklace set with 11 oval-shaped sapphires framed by round and marquise-shaped diamonds. The piece is further distinguished by a detachable cluster clip-brooch centered on five oval sapphires, which can be worn independently, as a bracelet centerpiece, or integrated into the necklace—an ingenious hallmark of Van Cleef & Arpels craftsmanship.
Offered from The Uta Ortiz-Patiño Collection of Magnificent Jewels, the necklace carries illustrious provenance tied to one of the most significant collecting dynasties of the 20th century. Signed and numbered by Van Cleef & Arpels and accompanied by its original fittings and accessories, the jewel’s strong auction result underscores continued collector demand for important, adaptable high jewelry from the house’s golden era.
From Art Deco masterpieces to mid-century marvels and contemporary reinterpretations, Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces continue to dazzle the jewelry world with their beauty, complexity, and cultural significance. Each of these five necklaces exemplifies different facets of the maison’s extraordinary legacy—whether through revolutionary techniques like the Mystery Set, the clever use of transformable elements, or the sheer opulence of exceptional gemstones. As collectors continue to seek out rare and iconic pieces, Van Cleef & Arpels remains a name that defines excellence in haute joaillerie—and these remarkable necklaces are a testament to its enduring allure.4oSelect 5 more words to run Humanizer.
Why is Van Cleef So Expensive?
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and timeless designs, making it one of the most prestigious jewelry houses in the world. Established in 1906, the brand has built a legacy of innovation, introducing signature techniques like the Mystery Set, which allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs. Each piece undergoes meticulous handcrafting, often requiring hundreds of hours of labor to achieve the maison’s signature level of artistry. Van Cleef’s use of the finest diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires further contributes to its exclusivity, with many pieces featuring gemstones of unparalleled quality and rarity. The brand’s association with royalty, celebrities, and collectors—along with limited production—drives immense demand, resulting in high prices and increasing value over time. Vintage and high-jewelry creations regularly achieve record-breaking auction results, reinforcing Van Cleef & Arpels’ status as a symbol of luxury and refinement.
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Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection: Explore rare and iconic jewelry designs, from a basic Alhambra pendant necklace starting around $7,000 to gold and diamond Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces valued over $250,000.
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- Sotheby's Financial Services
Sotheby’s Financial Services offers tailored luxury asset financing solutions that allow collectors to unlock liquidity from existing assets or support a portion of a new acquisition. Designed for competitive auction environments, these solutions provide flexibility and confidence while preserving broader investment strategies. - Exceptional Value: Every Van Cleef jewelry piece is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value, with many pieces available below their original retail price.
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