Magnificent Jewels

Magnificent Jewels

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 144. A Remarkable Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Necklace and Pair of Pendant Earclips, France.

Property of an International Collector

Van Cleef & Arpels

A Remarkable Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Necklace and Pair of Pendant Earclips, France

Auction Closed

December 5, 06:23 PM GMT


250,000 - 400,000 USD

Lot Details


The necklace composed of emerald bead links with foliate round diamond-set caps and flowerhead links set with ruby cabochons and round diamonds alternating with ruby cabochons; the earclips consisting of round tops set with ruby and emerald beads and round diamonds suspending a pair of detachable drops with emerald and ruby beads, round emeralds and rubies and round diamonds, necklace length 14½ inches, earclip length 2⅛ inches, necklace signed VCA, numbered NY47079 with French assay and workshop marks, earclips signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered NY35520, dated 1965, one diamond missing. With two signed boxes.

Please note that an emerald bead is missing from one of the earclips and will be replaced for the purchaser by Sotheby's following the auction.

The important jewels created in the 1960s are considered amongst Van Cleef & Arpels’ many creative high notes. Bold color palettes in yellow gold designs flourished in this era and Van Cleef seized the opportunity to introduce a collection combining an ancient aesthetic with modern wearability. Drawing direct inspiration from the Mughal period and its predilection for gems cut en cabochon or as drilled beads, these sophisticated jewels featured authentic motifs and subtle details in common with those famed 16th-19th century works. 

The present lot represents the pinnacle of this aesthetic, incorporating the classic and spiritually significant colors of green and red. These hues are sacred for their powerful symbolism of good fortune, wisdom (green) and the essence of life itself (red). The impressive scale and saturated color of the emerald beads in the necklace marries beautifully with the rich ruby cabochons set in classic floral motifs. The earrings continue the floral theme with a stylized pattern of intricate beadwork suspending modern pavé work centers atop classical bead drops, a seamless marriage of the old and the new.