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Icons of Jewelry Design – Bvlgari
Dive into the rich history of Bvlgari and explore three of its most iconic designs.
Brief History of Bvlgari
Bvlgari was founded by a Greek silversmith Sotirio Boulgaris, whose name was later Italianised to Bulgari. Born in Epirus in 1857 into a family with a rich heritage of silversmithing, Sotirio embarked on a journey that took him through Corfu and Naples before arriving in Rome in 1881. In 1884, he established his first shop on Via Sistina, followed by a second boutique at 28 Via Condotti the following year, offering an selection of artistic silverwork, antiques, and jewelry.
By 1905, Bvlgari had shifted its focus more decisively towards fine jewelry with the opening of a flagship boutique at 10 Via Condotti in Rome, near the iconic Spanish Steps. This historic store remains the heart and soul of Bvlgari to this day. Sotirio was soon joined in his endeavors by his two sons—Costantino (1889–1973), an academic who authored the definitive work on Italian silversmithing, and Giorgio (1890–1966), who played a pivotal role in sourcing precious stones and shaping the brand’s creative vision.
Key Takeaways: Icons of Jewelry Design – Bvlgari
| Iconic Design | Notable Features |
| Bvlgari Monete (Coin Jewelry) | Ancient Greek and Roman coins; introduced in the 1960s; fusion of archaeology and modern luxury |
| Bvlgari Serpenti | Serpent motif symbolizing power and transformation; Tubogas construction; iconic secret watches and gem-set designs |
| Bold Color and Cabochons | Vivid, unconventional gemstone palettes; signature cabochon cuts; fearless Italian approach to color and form |
After Sotirio’s death in 1932, his sons took over the business and were later joined by Giorgio’s three sons: Gianni, who departed the company in 1987; Paolo, a master of gemstones; and Nicola, a passionate historian and expert in silver craftsmanship. The iconic Bulgari style fully emerged in the 1960s, during the golden era of La Dolce Vita, defined by bold, architectural designs and sumptuous, vividly colored gemstones—particularly cabochons.
As Bvlgari expanded globally, it captivated a prestigious clientele of writers, artists, and Hollywood stars, including the legendary Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. By the 1980s, the brand’s distinctive aesthetic had become a defining force in jewelry design. As Andy Warhol famously remarked, “Bulgari jewelry was the eighties.”
In 2011, the legacy of Bvlgari reached new heights when it was acquired by the luxury conglomerate LVMH.
Three of Bvlgari's Most Iconic Designs:
1. Bvlgari Monete or Bvlgari Coin
Bvlgari's iconic Monete collection was first introduced in the 1960s, featuring ancient coins primarily dating from 300 BC to 300 AD. These exquisite pieces, adorned with antique and historical coins, pay homage to the brand’s deep-rooted Greek origins and rich Roman heritage.
During the 1960s, Rome was the epicenter of Hollywood glamour, and Nicola Bulgari envisioned Monete jewels as a way to give these ancient artifacts a second life. He pioneered a collection of striking statement necklaces with long, elegant chains that became synonymous with the era’s opulence. Today, the Bvlgari Monete collection has expanded to include rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, each embodying a unique blend of history and modern luxury.
In October 2023, Sotheby’s auctioned a remarkable Bvlgari Monete necklace for 1,270,000 HKD (163,036 USD). This Monete necklace featured a bezel-set antique coin depicting a male in profile, with the reverse showing a classical figure. The bezel was inscribed ‘ROMA TITUS AUG. A.D. 79-81,’ referencing Emperor Titus Vespasianus Augustus. Encircled by intricately carved carnelian and brilliant-cut diamonds, the necklace highlights the enduring allure of Bvlgari’s designs.
2. Bvlgari Serpenti
The first Bulgari Serpenti piece was introduced in 1948—a striking bracelet-watch crafted in gold, featuring a square-shaped dial set within a serpent’s head and a coiling body that elegantly wrapped around the wrist. This flexible design was achieved using the Tubogas technique, characterized by seamless, continuous coils of gold.
By the 1950s, the Serpenti design evolved to take on a more lifelike serpent form, with a meticulously sculpted head adorned with precious gemstone eyes—rubies, sapphires, or emeralds—adding an exquisite touch of realism. The watch dial was discreetly concealed within the serpent’s mouth, making it a “secret watch,” a concept that captivated the luxury world.
The Bvlgari Serpenti gained widespread fame in the 1960s when Elizabeth Taylor was photographed wearing one on the set of Cleopatra (1963) in Rome. Her affinity for the piece cemented its status as a symbol of glamour and sophistication. Fashion icon Diana Vreeland, known for her passion for serpent-inspired jewelry, owned a striking Bvlgari Serpenti belt in white and pink enamel, which she often wore coiled around her neck as a bold statement accessory.
Today, the Serpenti remains one of Bvlgari’s most iconic motifs, continuously re-imagined across watches, jewelry, and handbags, embodying the brand's enduring legacy of elegance and innovation. In April 2023, Sotheby's sold a Bulgari 'Serpenti' Rubellite, Diamond and Ruby Necklace for 10,130,000 HKD (1,300,439 USD). Designed with pear-shaped ruby eyes, this Bulgari necklace features a head adorned with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds, leading to a strand of rubellite beads spaced by square diamond rondelles and accented with pear-shaped diamonds, all set in 18-karat white gold.
3. Bvlgari Bold Color and Cabochons
A defining hallmark of Bvlgari jewelry is its exuberant and audacious use of color—an artful blend of vibrant gemstones, daringly unconventional combinations, and a distinctly Italian sensibility. Boldly hued stones set into Bvlgari necklaces epitomize the brand’s unmistakable style and fearless approach to design.
By the 1960s, Bvlgari jewelry erupted in a kaleidoscope of color, with necklaces showcasing tonal blends of pale blue Sri Lankan sapphires alongside striking juxtapositions of traditional gems mixed with citrines, amethysts, and tourmalines—most notably, Bvlgari pioneered the widespread use of vividly colored sapphires.
Equally crucial to the brand’s aesthetic evolution was the choice of gemstone cuts. In the late 1950s and throughout the 1960s, Bvlgari introduced the cabochon cut—a smooth, rounded shape that evoked the opulence of Renaissance jewels and marked a departure from conventional faceted stones.
Paolo Bulgari, inheriting his father Giorgio’s deep passion and expertise in gemstones, cultivated an exceptional eye for the unique beauty of cabochons. This legacy of artistry and innovation continues today under the guidance of Creative Director Lucia Silvestri, who affirms, "Most of all, Bulgari stones have to be alive."
Frequently Asked Questions About Bvlgari Jewelry Design
What are the most iconic Bvlgari jewelry designs?
Bvlgari’s most iconic designs include the Monete collection, which incorporates ancient coins, the Serpenti motif inspired by the serpent form, and the house’s signature use of bold color and cabochon-cut gemstones.
Why is Bvlgari known for bold color combinations?
Bvlgari revolutionized jewelry design by embracing highly saturated gemstones, unexpected color pairings, and cabochon cuts, creating a visual language rooted in Italian exuberance and classical influence.
What makes Bvlgari jewelry different from other luxury houses?
Bvlgari stands apart for its architectural forms, Mediterranean sense of color, and deep connection to Roman heritage, favoring expressive, statement-making design over subtle minimalism.
Buy and Sell Bvlgari Jewelry with Sotheby’s
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Every piece of Bvlgari jewelry is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
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