The Seven Most Expensive JAR Jewelry Pieces
Discover the seven most expensive JAR jewelry pieces, showcasing Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s unmatched artistry, avant-garde vision, and commitment to creating one-of-a-kind jewels.
Brief Background of JAR Jewelry
Joel Arthur Rosenthal, universally known as JAR, stands among the most elusive, revered, and influential jewelers of the 20th and 21st centuries. Born in New York and based in Paris, Rosenthal founded JAR in 1978 alongside his partner Pierre Jeannet. Working from a discreet Place Vendôme salon with no public storefront, Rosenthal has spent more than four decades producing jewels entirely on his own terms: low-volume, bespoke, imaginative, and uncompromisingly crafted.
JAR pieces are almost exclusively one-of-one creations, conceived with sculptural precision and executed with a painter’s sense of color. Rosenthal is renowned for his daring combinations of gemstones, masterful pavé work, and a distinctive use of patinated metals that blur the line between jewelry and fine art. Unlike major maisons that produce thousands of pieces annually, JAR creates only a few dozen each year—each a singular expression of vision, narrative, and craft.
As collectors increasingly recognize jewelry as a form of wearable sculpture, JAR’s works have achieved a near-mythic status at auction. Below, we explore seven of the most expensive JAR jewelry pieces sold at Sotheby’s since 2023.
Most Expensive JAR Jewelry Pieces
| Rank | Piece | Notable Features | Price (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Exceptional Emerald & Diamond Ring (2025) | 8.62-carat Classic Colombian emerald; platinum mounting; signed JAR Paris | $1,608,000 |
| 2 | Colored Stone & Diamond Pendant-Brooch (2025) | Multi-gem drop design with unheated pink and green stones; pavé-set diamonds; signed JAR | $1,016,000 |
| 3 | Fancy Intense Yellowish Green Diamond Ring (2024) | 2.47-carat Fancy Intense Yellowish Green diamond; aristocratic 19th-century provenance | $745,000 |
| 4 | Diamond Ring, 10.03 Carats (2023) | 10.03-carat D color, VVS2 Type IIa diamond; JAR case; French platinum assay | $705,000 |
| 5 | Colour-Change Sapphire Bracelet (2023) | 91.70-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire; platinum setting; signed JAR | $705,000 |
| 6 | Pair of Ruby & Diamond Earclips (2025) | Pavé-set rubies with diamond borders; one with a ruby center stone, one with a diamond center stone; signed JAR | $698,500 |
| 7 | Rock Crystal & Sapphire Butterfly Brooch (2025) | Carved rock crystal wings with pavé-set sapphires; sculptural butterfly form; signed JAR | $698,500 |
1. Exceptional Emerald and Diamond Ring, 1,608,000 USD
The most expensive JAR jewel sold at Sotheby’s to date, this Exceptional Emerald and Diamond Ring achieved 1,608,000 USD in June 2025—an extraordinary result that reflects both the rarity of its materials and the unmatched artistry for which JAR is known. At its center sits a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 8.62 carats, a richly saturated medium-green stone of Classic Colombian origin with insignificant clarity enhancement, as confirmed by AGL.
The emerald is framed by a pavé halo of single-cut diamonds set into a platinum mounting, signed JAR Paris with French assay and workshop marks. The ring is accompanied by its original signed box and an additional empty platinum-and-gold mounting with two triangular diamonds, underscoring JAR’s emphasis on bespoke presentation and meticulous craftsmanship.
With its exceptional color, clarity, and sculptural geometry, this ring exemplifies Rosenthal’s ability to elevate classical gemstone formats through refined proportions and painterly precision.
2. JAR Colored Stone and Diamond Pendant-Brooch, 1,016,000 USD
The Colored Stone and Diamond Pendant-Brooch sold for 1,016,000 USD in December 2025, marking one of the highest auction results ever achieved for a JAR jewel and underscoring the exceptional rarity of his early multi-gem creations. Made circa 1994, this reversible, graduated pendant centers oval and pear-shaped pink topazes that reveal two distinct personalities depending on which side is worn. The obverse is framed by pavé-set round rubies, amethysts, and sapphires, while the reverse showcases similarly shaped sapphires, pink tourmalines, and vivid demantoid garnets—an intricate orchestration of color that exemplifies JAR’s painterly approach to gemstones.
The pendant’s articulated cable links and diamond-set terminal add movement and brilliance, reinforcing JAR’s mastery of sculptural design and visual rhythm. Though unsigned, the piece is accompanied by its original JAR box, further affirming its authenticity and collectible importance. With its bold palette, reversible construction, and impeccable craftsmanship, this pendant-brooch stands as a quintessential expression of Rosenthal’s ingenuity and his unparalleled ability to transform color into emotional resonance.
3. Rare Fancy Intense Yellowish Green Diamond Ring, 673,100 CHF
This rare Fancy Intense Yellowish Green diamond ring, set with an old mine brilliant-cut diamond weighing 2.47 carats, sold for 673,100 CHF in Geneva in May 2024. Although unsigned, the mounting and presentation case are stamped JAR, and the jewel’s remarkable history elevates it far beyond its already extraordinary gemological qualities.
The central diamond, certified by GIA as natural color and SI2 clarity, belonged to Countess Eliza Branicka (1820–1876), a Polish aristocrat intertwined with some of the most influential families of the Russian and Polish courts. Originally an engagement gift given in Rome in 1843, the diamond carries nearly two centuries of provenance, familial legacy, and European history.
Subsequently mounted by JAR, the ring marries antique romance with Rosenthal’s contemporary sensibility, transforming a storied heirloom into a modern masterpiece.
4. Diamond Ring, 635,000 CHF
From the Collection of Renate Graf, this 10.03-carat diamond ring sold for 635,000 CHF in May 2023. The cushion-shaped diamond—graded D color, VVS2 clarity, and classified as Type IIa—represents one of the purest and most desirable diamond types in existence.
Mounted in platinum and stamped with French assay marks, the ring carries the iconic JAR case, though the ring itself is unsigned, a subtle hallmark of Rosenthal’s preference for discretion. The diamond’s elongated proportions and exceptional optical performance reflect JAR’s intuitive understanding of how to highlight gemstones without overwhelming them, allowing the stone’s natural brilliance to dominate the composition.
5. Impressive Colour-Change Sapphire Bracelet, 635,000 CHF
Another standout from the Renate Graf Collection, this colour-change sapphire bracelet achieved 635,000 CHF in May 2023. The bracelet is claw-set with an extraordinary 91.70-carat cushion-shaped sapphire originating from Ceylon, with no heat treatment—a rarity for a gemstone of such magnitude.
Signed JAR, the bracelet is mounted in platinum with French maker’s and assay marks. The stone is remarkable not only for its size but for its dramatic color-change effect, shifting under varying light sources—an optical phenomenon that JAR uses to create dynamic, ever-changing jewelry experiences.
The minimalistic yet architectural platinum setting allows the sapphire's sheer presence to take center stage, embodying Rosenthal’s philosophy of letting gemstones speak for themselves.
6. Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earclips, 698,500 USD
The Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earclips sold for 698,500 USD in December 2025, a remarkable result that reflects both their documented exhibition history and the rarity of JAR’s late-1990s colored-stone creations. Designed circa 1998, the earclips take the form of sculptural quatrefoils pavé-set with round rubies, enriched by delicate accents of single-cut diamonds. One clip centers a kite-shaped diamond, while the other features a similarly shaped ruby—a subtle asymmetry that exemplifies Rosenthal’s affinity for unexpected balance, harmony, and contrast.
Though unsigned, the pair is accompanied by its original JAR box and carries distinguished provenance through its inclusion in The Jewels of JAR Paris, the celebrated Somerset House exhibition of 2002–2003. They are also illustrated in JAR Paris, London, 2002 (plate 289), positioning them firmly within JAR’s documented body of work. With their saturated color, refined geometry, and impeccable pavé technique, these earclips embody the intricate craftsmanship and artistic rigor that have made JAR’s jewels among the most collectible of the contemporary era.
7. Rock Crystal and Sapphire Clip-Brooch, 698,500 USD
The Rock Crystal and Sapphire Clip-Brooch sold for 698,500 USD in December 2025, reaffirming the enduring desirability of JAR’s sculptural interpretations of nature and the market strength of his butterfly-themed creations. Designed in Paris, the brooch takes the form of an expressive butterfly with wings carved from luminous rock crystal, each one inset with oval-shaped and round sapphires in varying intensities of blue. A vertical arrangement of differently shaped sapphires forms the body, all mounted in darkened silver that heightens the work’s dramatic, almost moody presence.
This piece exemplifies JAR’s dual approach to natural forms—hyperrealistic in its meticulous carving yet elevated by an imaginative, atmospheric color palette. Echoing the celebrated butterfly installations from JAR’s 2013 retrospective, the brooch embodies the artist’s fascination with movement, scale, and the interplay of light across textured surfaces. With its refined craftsmanship and striking combination of patinated silver, rock crystal, and sapphire, this brooch stands as a powerful example of Rosenthal’s ability to transform familiar motifs into visually arresting, contemporary works of art.
From Gemstone Masterpieces to Sculptural Jewels
From historically significant diamonds to color-shifting sapphires and intricately composed botanical motifs, JAR’s jewelry represents some of the most collectible, admired, and technically complex work in contemporary jewelry. Each piece is a singular creation—one that bridges art, sculpture, and high jewelry in ways no other contemporary jeweler has achieved.
As collectors continue to seek rarity, craftsmanship, and artistic integrity, JAR’s jewels stand at the pinnacle of modern collecting, with auction results that testify to their enduring and growing global appeal.
Frequently Asked Questions About JAR Jewelry
Why is JAR jewelry so expensive?
JAR jewelry is extraordinarily expensive because each piece is a unique, handcrafted creation produced in extremely limited quantities. Joel Arthur Rosenthal is known for meticulous craftsmanship, painterly gemstone gradation, and sculptural designs that treat jewelry as fine art. With no mass production and no public retail presence, supply is exceptionally low—driving strong demand from collectors and museums. Rare gemstones, technical mastery, and JAR’s cult-like market reputation further elevate prices at auction.
What makes JAR jewelry unique compared to other high-jewelry maisons?
Unlike major houses, JAR produces only a handful of pieces each year, many of which are completely one-of-one. Rosenthal’s distinctive use of patinated metals, precise pavé settings, bold color combinations, and three-dimensional forms sets his work apart. Each jewel is designed as a sculpture, with the wearer in mind, resulting in creations that feel intimate, expressive, and highly individual. His refusal to follow commercial trends and his atelier’s exclusivity reinforce JAR’s singular position in contemporary jewelry.
Is JAR jewelry signed, and how can collectors authenticate a piece?
Many—but not all—JAR pieces are signed “JAR Paris,” yet some are intentionally unsigned as part of Rosenthal’s discreet, artistic philosophy. Authentication typically relies on original JAR cases, provenance records, workshop marks, and comparison with documented examples. Auction houses like Sotheby’s rely on expert vetting and gemological reports to ensure each piece aligns with JAR’s known materials, construction techniques, and stylistic DNA.
Which types of gemstones does JAR use most frequently?
JAR is renowned for his imaginative use of gemstones, often celebrating unconventional combinations. He frequently employs sapphires, garnets, diamonds, spinels, and colored stones in richly layered pavé compositions. JAR is also drawn to exceptional single stones—such as large unheated sapphires or rare fancy-color diamonds—integrating them into sculptural designs that highlight their natural beauty. Color is central to his work, and gemstones are chosen as much for their hue and emotional impact as their rarity.
Are JAR pieces considered collectible?
Yes. JAR jewelry is among the most collectible contemporary jewelry in the world. Because production is extremely limited, and many pieces remain in private hands, auction appearances are rare—and often headline events. Prices have risen steadily over the last decade, and many JAR jewels are now held in museum collections, including the Met’s landmark 2013 exhibition dedicated solely to his work. Collectors prize JAR for artistic significance, technical innovation, and long-term desirability.
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