Icons of Design: Van Cleef & Arpels

Brief History of Van Cleef & Arpels

Few names in the world of haute joaillerie evoke as much admiration and prestige as Van Cleef & Arpels. For over a century, this legendary Parisian maison has redefined the boundaries of design, artistry, and innovation in the realm of luxury jewelry. From their beginnings at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906 to their continued global influence today, Van Cleef & Arpels has captivated royalty, Hollywood legends, and discerning collectors with creations that are equal parts art and engineering. This article delves into the rich history and extraordinary masterpieces that have cemented Van Cleef & Arpels as icons of design.

The journey of Van Cleef & Arpels began with a union—not just of marriage but of shared passion. Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a diamond cutter, and Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stones dealer, married in 1895. In 1906, Alfred, alongside his brothers-in-law Charles, Julien, and later Louis Arpels, opened a boutique that would become a symbol of French elegance and innovation. By the 1930s, the next generation of the family, including artistic director Renée Puissant, helped expand the maison’s global presence while crafting some of its most iconic designs in collaboration with designer René Sim Lacaze.

Catherine, Princess of Wales, then Duchess of Cambridge, wearing van Cleef and Arpels Alhambra Necklace and earrings to the BAFTA's in London, February 2020.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature style, developed throughout the 20th century, is a harmonious blend of inspiration drawn from nature, couture, Orientalism, ballet, and an enchanting world of fantasy. The maison's quest for the finest gemstones and its technical ingenuity have consistently elevated its creations, captivating clients such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor. Today, both vintage and modern Van Cleef & Arpels pieces remain highly sought-after on red carpets, at auctions, and among collectors worldwide.

Van Cleef & Arpels Muses

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Ballet Précieux’ Unique Diamond Clip Brooch | ‘Ballerine Pulcinella’ |Sold for 960,000 HKD

The Ballerina Clips

Among Van Cleef & Arpels’ most treasured creations are the ballerina clips, born from Louis Arpels’ love for dance. Introduced in 1941, these exquisite designs capture the ethereal beauty of ballet through intricate craftsmanship. From rose-cut diamond faces to tutus crafted from pleated gold and precious stones, every detail of these pieces celebrates grace and movement. Collections like Ballet Précieux have brought this artistry to life, showcasing the maison’s unparalleled ability to weave storytelling into jewelry.

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Mystery-Set' Ruby and Diamond Demi-Parure | Sold for: 384,000 HKD

Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Floral Brooches

A true technical marvel, the Mystery Set was patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. This revolutionary technique allowed gemstones to be set without visible metal, creating seamless mosaics of velvety color. Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds took center stage in floral and foliate designs, such as the celebrated double holly leaf brooch gifted by the Duke of Windsor to Wallis Simpson. This innovation remains a hallmark of the maison’s legacy, with Mystery Set creations continuing to enchant collectors.

Van Cleef Zip Necklace — ^{Actress Margot Robbie wore a Zip Necklace to the Academy Awards in 2015.}

The Van Cleef & Arpels 'Zip' Necklace

One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most innovative designs, the Zip necklace, was inspired by a zipper and suggested by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938. Introduced in 1951, this masterpiece combined technical brilliance with chic design, functioning both as a necklace and a bracelet. Embellished with goldwork and gemstones, the Zip necklace exemplified the maison’s expertise in transformable jewelry and its deep connection to the world of Parisian couture.

^{A contemporary example of the} ^{Cardenas watch} ^{sold in Hong Kong for more than US$40,000.}

Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Watch

Created in 1935, the Van Cleef Cadenas watch was another design innovation, blending form and function with an Art Deco flair. Its padlock-inspired silhouette, combined with a sleek snake-chain bracelet, offered wearers a discreet way to check the time. With clients like the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and actress Paulette Goddard, the Cadenas watch became an emblem of sophistication and modernity.

The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra

“To be lucky, you have to believe in luck,” said Jacques Arpels. Luck has been a recurring theme in Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry collections. In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Alhambra collection, inspired by the motif of a four-leaf clover. The long sautoir necklaces, featuring clover motifs edged in perlé gold, embodied a sense of luck, elegance, and freedom. Celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Romy Schneider embraced the Alhambra, which became synonymous with effortless style. Today, this enduring classic has been reimagined in various materials, from mother-of-pearl to malachite, making it as versatile as it is iconic.

Van Cleef & Arpels has left an indelible mark on the world of jewelry, creating pieces that transcend time and trends. Through their artistic vision, technical mastery, and commitment to excellence, the maison has celebrated beauty, innovation, and craftsmanship for over a century. From ballerina clips to Alhambra necklaces, each creation tells a story of elegance and imagination, ensuring Van Cleef & Arpels will forever remain an icon of design.

Advantages to Buying Van Cleef & Arpels on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Van Cleef & Arpels pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Van Cleef & Arpels pieces not available online.

3. Value

While Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Van Cleef treasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Van Cleef & Arpels stores. Our curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Van Cleef & Arpels At Sotheby's

Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels pieces available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for Van Cleef & Arpels jewels begin at around $5,000, with prices rising substantially for highly coveted designs, such as ruby and diamond necklaces, which can surpass $250,000.