Icons of Design: Van Cleef & Arpels
Discover the timeless elegance and innovation of Van Cleef & Arpels. From ballerina clips to the Alhambra collection, explore the maison’s most iconic designs and rich history.
Brief History of Van Cleef & Arpels
Few names in the world of haute joaillerie evoke as much admiration and prestige as Van Cleef & Arpels. For over a century, this legendary Parisian maison has redefined the boundaries of design, artistry, and innovation in the realm of luxury jewelry. From their beginnings at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906 to their continued global influence today, Van Cleef & Arpels has captivated royalty, Hollywood legends, and discerning collectors with creations that are equal parts art and engineering. This article delves into the rich history and extraordinary masterpieces that have cemented Van Cleef & Arpels as icons of design.
The journey of Van Cleef & Arpels began with a union—not just of marriage but of shared passion. Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a diamond cutter, and Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stones dealer, married in 1895. In 1906, Alfred, alongside his brothers-in-law Charles, Julien, and later Louis Arpels, opened a boutique that would become a symbol of French elegance and innovation. By the 1930s, the next generation of the family, including artistic director Renée Puissant, helped expand the maison’s global presence while crafting some of its most iconic designs in collaboration with designer René Sim Lacaze.
Key Takeaways: Van Cleef & Arpels Iconic Designs
| Iconic Design | Notable Features |
| Ballerina Clips | Introduced in 1941; inspired by Louis Arpels’ love of ballet; sculptural gold tutus and gem-set detailing |
| Mystery Set Jewelry | Patented in 1933; gemstones set with no visible metal; seamless fields of ruby, sapphire, and emerald |
| Zip Necklace | Introduced in 1951; transformable necklace-to-bracelet design; inspired by Parisian couture |
| Cadenas Watch | Created in 1935; padlock-inspired Art Deco form; discreet, jewelry-first approach to timekeeping |
| Alhambra Collection | Introduced in 1968; four-leaf clover motif symbolizing luck; perlé gold and versatile materials |
Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature style, developed throughout the 20th century, is a harmonious blend of inspiration drawn from nature, couture, Orientalism, ballet, and an enchanting world of fantasy. This legacy is exemplified by exceptional diamond jewels such as a circa 1955 Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace, designed as a highly flexible gathered double loop set with round and baguette diamonds, which achieved $730,800 in June 2025. The maison’s relentless pursuit of the finest gemstones and its technical ingenuity have consistently elevated its creations, captivating legendary clients including Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor. Today, both vintage and modern Van Cleef & Arpels pieces remain highly sought-after on red carpets, at auctions, and among collectors worldwide.
Van Cleef & Arpels Muses
The Ballerina Clips
Among Van Cleef & Arpels’ most treasured creations are the ballerina clips, born from Louis Arpels’ lifelong love for dance. Introduced in 1941, these exquisite designs capture the ethereal beauty of ballet through extraordinary craftsmanship and expressive form. A standout example from the Ballet Précieux collection is a unique diamond ballerina clip brooch, designed as a poised dancer with a rose-cut diamond face, a pavé-set diamond tutu, and delicately articulated limbs, which achieved 960,000 HKD in October 2025. From pleated gold tutus accented with precious stones to subtle gestures frozen in motion, every detail of these pieces celebrates grace, rhythm, and movement. Together, they exemplify the maison’s unparalleled ability to transform narrative and emotion into enduring works of jewelry art.
Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Floral Brooches
A true technical marvel, the Mystery Set was patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, allowing gemstones to be set without visible metal and creating seamless surfaces of richly saturated color. This revolutionary technique reached its most poetic expression in floral designs, where rubies, sapphires, and emeralds were transformed into lifelike petals and leaves. A standout example is a Mystery-Set ruby and diamond floral clip-brooch, designed with calibré-cut ruby petals surrounding a diamond-set pistil and mounted on a detachable diamond stem, which sold for $584,200 in April 2025. Such creations exemplify the maison’s unrivaled technical ingenuity and remain among the most coveted expressions of Van Cleef & Arpels’ artistic legacy.
The Van Cleef & Arpels 'Zip' Necklace
One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most innovative designs, the Zip necklace was inspired by a zipper and famously suggested by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938. Introduced in 1951, this ingenious creation combined technical brilliance with chic design, functioning both as a necklace and a bracelet. Embellished with goldwork, diamonds, and colored gemstones, the Zip necklace exemplifies the maison’s mastery of transformable jewelry and its deep connection to the world of Parisian couture. A contemporary example of this iconic design is currently offered at a fixed price of $550,000 on Sotheby’s Buy Now marketplace, underscoring the enduring desirability of the Zip necklace among collectors today.
Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Watch
Created in 1935, the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch was a bold design innovation, blending form and function with an unmistakable Art Deco flair. Its padlock-inspired silhouette, paired with an angled dial and bracelet-style construction, offered wearers a discreet way to read the time while maintaining the appearance of fine jewelry. Favored by style icons such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and actress Paulette Goddard, the Cadenas became an enduring symbol of elegance and modernity. The continued desirability of this design is reflected in later interpretations, including a yellow gold and diamond-set Cadenas wristwatch, which sold for 325,000 HKD in October 2017, underscoring the model’s lasting appeal among collectors.
The Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
“To be lucky, you have to believe in luck,” said Jacques Arpels—a sentiment that has long guided Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative vision. Luck has been a recurring theme in the maison’s jewelry collections, culminating in the introduction of the Alhambra in 1968, inspired by the four-leaf clover. Long sautoir necklaces featuring clover motifs edged in perlé gold embodied a sense of luck, elegance, and freedom. Over time, the design evolved into more elaborate interpretations, including diamond-set variations such as a ‘Magic Alhambra’ necklace accompanied by a matching pair of earclips, which achieved $165,100 in December 2025, underscoring the enduring appeal of the motif. Embraced by icons like Grace Kelly and Romy Schneider, the Alhambra became synonymous with effortless style. Today, this enduring classic has been reimagined in materials ranging from mother-of-pearl to malachite, ensuring its place as one of the most versatile and recognizable designs in jewelry history.
Van Cleef & Arpels has left an indelible mark on the world of jewelry, creating pieces that transcend time and trends. Through artistic vision, technical mastery, and an unwavering commitment to excellence, the maison has celebrated beauty, innovation, and craftsmanship for over a century. From ballerina clips to Alhambra necklaces, each creation tells a story of elegance and imagination, ensuring Van Cleef & Arpels will forever remain an icon of design.
Frequently Asked Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels
What makes Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry iconic?
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for combining artistic storytelling with technical innovation. Its designs often draw inspiration from nature, ballet, and couture while introducing groundbreaking techniques such as the Mystery Set and transformable jewelry.
Which Van Cleef & Arpels designs are most collectible?
Highly collectible designs include Mystery Set jewels, ballerina clips, Zip necklaces, and vintage Alhambra pieces, particularly rare or discontinued examples with strong provenance.
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