Learn More About Rare and Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
Discover the most rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra jewelry, from guilloché gold to pavé-set diamonds, in this complete collector’s guide.
History of the Van Cleef Alhambra
In the 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to create more accessible fine jewelry for modern women. This led to the launch of La Boutique in Paris in 1954, offering semi-precious pieces designed for daily wear. In 1968, the maison introduced the Alhambra, its most iconic motif, with a 20-motif opera-length necklace. Worn by Grace Kelly and beloved ever since, the Alhambra remains Van Cleef’s most recognizable design, favored by royalty, celebrities, and collectors alike.
Van Cleef Alhambra Key Takeaways
| Origin | Inspired by the clover and the Alhambra Palace's arches, reflecting Jacques Arpels' belief in luck |
| Design & Craftsmanship | Features clover-shaped motifs crafted in gold, mother-of-pearl, hardstones, and pavé diamonds. |
| Rare Pieces | Guilloché gold, Tiger's Eye, wood, turquoise, Lucky motifs, pavé-set diamonds. |
| Demand | 20-motif necklaces in rare materials are the most coveted among collectors. |
| Price Range | Rare styles often sell for $40K-$125K+ at auction; pavé and discontinued versions command the highest premiums. |
| Collector Appeal | Limited releases, discontinued motifs, and boutique scarcity drive demand. |
Rare & Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the Alhambra, certain pieces stand out for their rarity and desirability. Many are discontinued, require custom orders, or are consistently sold out. Sotheby’s remains a premier destination to discover these elusive designs. The original 20-motif necklace is especially difficult to source due to the meticulous matching of colored stones. Limited-edition holiday motifs are also highly coveted by collectors worldwide. In this guide, we’ll explore some of the most rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra creations—from guilloché gold to pavé-set diamonds.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Guilloche
Guilloché is a traditional engraving technique used by Van Cleef & Arpels to create shimmering, striated gold surfaces. First seen on watches in the early 1900s, guilloché was later introduced to jewelry and is now among the most coveted Alhambra finishes due to its intricate craftsmanship and rarity.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Tiger's Eye
Initially met with limited enthusiasm, the Tiger’s Eye Alhambra motif has become highly sought after since becoming unavailable. Its deep brown and gold tones evoke a 1970s–1980s aesthetic that aligns with current trends in houses like Chanel and Saint Laurent. The best place to acquire one is the secondary market.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Lucky
The Lucky Alhambra necklace is a rare, discontinued design featuring 12 whimsical motifs—tiger’s eye butterflies, carnelian hearts, malachite leaves, and mother-of-pearl quatrefoils. This colorful combination stands out from the traditional single-motif necklaces.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Multi Size Motif
Most Alhambra necklaces feature motifs of a uniform size. Designs with mixed-size motifs, such as a 16-motif necklace with varying quatrefoils, are much rarer. These pieces add visual interest, especially when layered with classic 20-motif styles. Similarly, earrings featuring different motif sizes are highly collectible.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Lacquered Wood Motifs
Lacquered wood motifs are no longer produced, making Alhambra designs featuring them exceptionally rare. One standout example is this 20 motif necklace featuring alternating wood and textured pink gold motifs that sold for £31,200 (about $40,000), more than 2.5 times its high estimate.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Necklace 20 Motifs Turquoise and White Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra with turquoise motifs is a rare find. It is almost always sold out since it is a very classic and desirable combination, especially when in white gold. A 20 motif Van Cleef Alhambra necklace is even harder to find due to demand for this original style.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Pavé-set Diamonds
Although pavé-set diamond Alhambra pieces remain in production, fully pavé-set motifs are scarce and often require special order. Limited availability and long wait times make them especially desirable. In April 2025, Sotheby’s sold a Vintage Alhambra necklace with 20 pavé-set motifs for HKD 825,500 (about $126,000), confirming strong resale value for this rare style.
From guilloché gold to lacquered wood and pavé-set diamonds, the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection continues to captivate collectors with its timeless elegance and rarity. Whether you're drawn to classic designs or elusive limited editions, these pieces remain enduring symbols of luxury and craftsmanship—making them as desirable today as when they were first introduced.
Buy and Sell Van Cleef & Arpels with Sotheby’s
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of fine jewelry, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection
Explore rare and iconic designs, from a single motif Alhambra pendant or ring starting around $3,000 to a 16 motifs with pavé set diamonds valued over $100,000. - Exclusive Global Access
Shop jewelry through auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors. - Flexible Ways to Buy
Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated jewelry concierge. - Exceptional Value
Every piece of jewelry is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
Discover Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry across all price points, with new pieces added regularly.
Ready to Get Started?
- Browse upcoming jewelry auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
- Shop Buy Now jewelry for instant access to available inventory
- Speak with a Jewelry Specialist to consign or request a valuation for Van Cleef Alhambra jewelry pieces
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