History of the Van Cleef Alhambra
In the first half of the 1950s, Van Cleef and Arpels recognized the need to create more accessible fine jewelry pieces for a new generation of women. It launched La Boutique in Paris in 1954, and soon found strong demand for semi-precious jewelry pieces that could be worn every day, rather than alongside formal evening attire. The most famous jewelry motif created by Van Cleef and Arpels in this era was the Alhambra, which was first unveiled in 1968. The first Van Cleef Alhambra design was an opera length necklace with 20 motifs. Grace Kelly regularly wore multiple Van Cleef Alhambra necklaces layered together. Today, the Van Cleef Alhambra is the most recognized design from the French luxury jewelry maison and remains popular with royalty, celebrities and luxury buyers.
Rare & Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
Whether you are a seasoned collector or new admirer of Van Cleef & Arpels, we have highlighted several rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra pieces. Each Alhambra piece is no longer accessible, must be custom ordered from Van Cleef or is regularly sold out. Sotheby's is a great place to seek out inaccessible and rare Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra jewelry. Van Cleef Alhambra is one of the most sought after jewelry by luxury buyers all over the world. The original Van Cleef Alhambra 20 motif necklace is also often the hardest to source since it requires more effort to match the motifs in colored precious metals. Seasoned collectors are also often on the look out for limited edition holiday motif necklaces.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Guilloche
Van Cleef guilloche is a traditional engraving technique that creates delicate striations on gold and other precious metals. The striations can be arranged in different patterns and creates luminous reflections. The guilloche technique is inspired by gold-smithery and culinary art. Van Cleef first used this technique in the early 1900s, first on watches and then jewelry. Van Cleef Alhambra with guilloche motifs are among the rarest and highly collectible.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Tiger's Eye
While the Van Cleef & Arpel's Alhambra Tiger's Eye wasn't an immediate success, once the motif was no longer accessible, the rarity has increased the desirability of this motif. The best place to source a Alhambra Tigers's Eye is the secondary market. The rich brown motifs with yellow gold has a 70s and 80s vibe that is very on trend with jewelry from Chanel, Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent and Chloé this season.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Lucky
Another rare and no longer accessible Van Cleef & Arpels necklace is the Lucky Alhambra. This unique Van Cleef necklace with 12 motifs features tiger's eye butterflies, carnelian hearts, malachite leaves, and mother-of-pearl quatrefoils. This necklace combines different motifs in shapes and colors and will stand out from a single motif necklace.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Multi Size Motif
Most Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklaces feature a single size motif making a necklace featuring different sizes rare and collectible. This Van Cleef Alhambra necklace with sixteen quatrefoil motifs of varying sizes is unique and would add another dimension when layered with a traditional 20 motif Alhambra necklace. Van Cleef Alhambra earrings in different motif sizes are also highly collectible and in demand by collectors.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Lacquered Wood Motifs
Another inaccessible Alhambra motif is lacquered wood which makes a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra creation featuring these motifs very collectible. A Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra 20 motif necklace alternating wood and textured pink gold quatrefoil motifs, mounted in 18 karat pink gold is a rare piece that combines rich wood with rose gold. Sotheby's sold a Wood Alhambra Necklace featuring 20 motifs for 31,200 GBP or about $40,000, over 2.5 times the high estimate of 12,000 GBP.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Necklace 20 Motifs Turquoise and White Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra with turquoise motifs is a rare find. It is almost always sold out since it is a very classic and desirable combination, especially when in white gold. A 20 motif Van Cleef Alhambra necklace is even harder to find due to demand for this original style.
Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: Pavé-set Diamonds
While the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection with pavé-set diamonds remains part of the brand’s current offerings, pieces featuring fully diamond-set motifs are far more elusive. These designs are rarely available in boutiques and often require a custom order, with limited production and extended wait times. Their rarity and refined elegance make them particularly sought after by collectors. In April 2025, Sotheby’s sold this Vintage Alhambra Diamond Necklace featuring 20 fully pavé-set motifs for 825,500 HKD—just shy of its approximate retail price of $126,000. The result demonstrates that this piece retains strong value on the secondary market, particularly when in excellent condition.
Advantages to Buying Van Cleef & Arpels on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Van Cleef & Arpels pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from collectors around the world.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Van Cleef & Arpels pieces not available online.
3. Value
While Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Van Cleef treasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.
4. Discovery
One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Van Cleef & Arpels stores. Our curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.
Buy and Sell Van Cleef Alhambra At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra available for immediate purchase. If you would like to view a Van Cleef Alhambra creation, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra from its global supplier network. In general Van Cleef Alhambra pieces sell at a small discount to retail of the piece is in excellent condition. Discontinued Van Cleef Alhambra creations can sell at a premium to retail depending on the motifs and condition. Prices for Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra start at around $3,000 for a single motif Alhambra pendant or ring and can exceed $100,000 for a 16 motifs with pavé set diamonds.
- Explore upcoming jewelry auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Contact a Salon Associate in New York or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Van Cleef Alhambra jewelry piece.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.