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Tiffany Schlumberger: Where Imagination Meets High Jewelry
Discover how Jean Schlumberger's imaginative designs for Tiffany & Co. continue to captivate collectors with bold enamel, surreal forms, and timeless appeal.
F ew figures in the world of fine jewelry are as widely respected as Jean Schlumberger. The French-born designer helped shape the creative identity of Tiffany & Co. in the mid-20th century with his imaginative, nature-inspired designs. His work, ranging from bold enamel bracelets to intricate gemstone brooches, stood out for its technical skill, strong artistic voice, and sense of movement. Schlumberger had a unique ability to turn precious materials into lively, almost animated interpretations of the natural world.
This article looks at Schlumberger’s life and career, from his early years in France to his lasting partnership with Tiffany & Co. It explores the ideas that shaped his work, highlights his most iconic designs, and uncovers why his legacy remains so relevant today.
Key Takeaways: Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
| Origins | Born 1907 in Alsace, France; early fascination with nature sketches shaped his career. |
| Tiffany Era | Joined Tiffany & Co. in 1956, bringing bold, sculptural, nature-inspired jewelry. |
| Signature Works | Famous for “Bird on a Rock”, Tiffany Diamond settings, Croisillon bracelets, and Sixteen Stone Ring. |
| Design Style | Treated jewelry as sculpture in motion, with enamel, color, and asymmetry. |
| Auction Highlights | Bird on a Rock sold for 1.65M HKD; Pink Sapphire Brooch sold for 1.74M CHF; Croisillon bracelet sold for 107,950 (2025). |
| Legacy | Died 1987; Tiffany still produces his designs, ensuring lasting global collector appeal. |
Early Life and Influences
Jean Schlumberger was born in 1907 in the Alsace region of France. As a child, he showed a strong interest in drawing and design. He was especially fascinated by nature, often sketching birds, flowers, and sea creatures—subjects that would later become central to his jewelry. He once said, “I try to make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, organic,” a philosophy that guided his work throughout his career.
His family, who were involved in the textile business, wanted him to follow a more traditional path. But Schlumberger was determined to work in the arts. In the 1930s, he moved to Paris and began designing buttons and costume jewelry for Elsa Schiaparelli, one of the most innovative fashion designers of the era. This early experience introduced him to a circle of artists and designers that included Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. While he wasn’t formally part of the Surrealist movement, his work shared many of its qualities: unexpected combinations, dreamlike forms, and a creative take on everyday objects.
The Rise of Jean Schlumberger
After serving in World War II, Schlumberger moved to New York. In 1946, he opened a fine jewelry salon with his business partner, Nicolas Bongard. His designs, which were much more daring than most jewelry at the time, quickly attracted attention. Collectors and clients were drawn to the way he mixed color, movement, and storytelling into his work.
Unlike more traditional jewelers who focused purely on gemstones and symmetry, Schlumberger treated jewelry as a form of sculpture. He created pieces that looked alive—like they were in motion. He designed sea creatures, birds, vines, and flowers, using unusual color combinations and unexpected materials. His work was not only technically advanced, but visually fresh and expressive.
In 1956, Tiffany & Co. chairman Walter Hoving invited Schlumberger to join the house. This was a major turning point for both Schlumberger and Tiffany. It gave him access to some of the world’s best materials and craftspeople, while Tiffany gained a creative force who could help push the brand forward with bold, original designs.
Iconic Tiffany Schlumberger Designs
From his studio in Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship, Jean Schlumberger created some of the house’s most recognizable designs. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, he reinterpreted birds, flowers, and sea life with bold color, sculptural precision, and a surrealist flair. His use of enamel, particularly in his Croisillon bracelets, added bold color and made his designs stand out. These bracelets, with their repeating geometric patterns and vibrant hues, became a signature of his style.
For many clients, Schlumberger offered something different from what traditional high jewelry could provide—pieces that felt personal, expressive, and full of character. Though he passed away in 1987, Tiffany & Co. continues to produce many of his most beloved designs, preserving his creative legacy for new generations of collectors. Below are the most celebrated Tiffany Schlumberger designs.
The Tiffany Diamond
One of Schlumberger’s most famous works is his setting for the Tiffany Diamond—one of the largest and most celebrated yellow diamonds in the world. The stone, a 128.54-carat fancy yellow cushion-cut diamond, had been part of Tiffany’s collection since the late 19th century. In 1956, Schlumberger was asked to design a new mounting for the gem.
He created the “Ribbon Rosette” setting, which framed the diamond in a bold, sculptural swirl of gold and diamond accents. Later, in the 1960s, he designed another version—the “Bird on a Rock” setting—which became even more famous. In this design, a whimsical diamond-covered bird perches atop the massive yellow diamond. It’s a bold and unexpected pairing that captures Schlumberger’s ability to combine humor, elegance, and luxury in a single piece. Though the Tiffany Diamond has only been worn a few times in history, the Bird on a Rock has become a signature Schlumberger motif, often recreated with different gemstones.
Bird on a Rock
Now produced in many variations, Bird on a Rock is one of Schlumberger’s most recognizable designs. While the original version featured the Tiffany Diamond, Tiffany & Co. has continued to create new editions using aquamarine, amethyst, pink and yellow sapphires, and other vibrant center stones. Each iteration retains the same defining elements: a diamond-set bird with a colorful plumed form, poised atop a large faceted gemstone.
Notably, a Citrine, Ruby, and Diamond Bird on a Rock brooch sold for 44,100 USD in September 2022, illustrating the enduring enthusiasm for this design. Other examples have achieved even higher prices depending on the rarity of the center stone, with early models and exceptional materials consistently performing well at auction.
The design perfectly encapsulates Schlumberger’s creative approach. Playful yet elegant, it conveys a sense of movement and personality that elevates it beyond traditional brooches into the realm of miniature sculpture. Bird on a Rock remains a favorite among collectors, worn by celebrities, celebrated in exhibitions, and continually achieving strong results at auction.
Recent Auction Highlights
Two exceptional examples further underscore the desirability of this iconic motif. A Tiffany Schlumberger Tanzanite and Diamond ‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch, its bird pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and perched atop an oval tanzanite, realized 1,651,000 HKD. Another, the Spessartine Garnet and Diamond ‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch featuring the same diamond-covered bird poised on a cushion-shaped spessartine garnet, achieved 1,460,500 HKD. Both creations, mounted in 18 karat yellow gold and signed Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co., exemplify the ingenuity and craftsmanship that have secured Bird on a Rock as one of the maison’s most collectible designs.
Flora and Fauna
Jean Schlumberger’s fascination with the natural world led to some of his most imaginative and beloved creations. His flora and fauna designs are not merely inspired by nature—they reinterpret it through a lens of artistry and elegance. He created sea anemones, starfish, thistles, and lilies using textured gold, enamel, and colorful gemstones. Many of them are slightly asymmetrical, reflecting the natural shapes and imperfections found in real flowers and sea creatures.
His animal designs are just as creative. He imagined dolphins covered in sapphires, jellyfish with pearl tentacles, and bees and butterflies caught in motion, all made in gold. One striking example is the “La Méduse” brooch, featuring moonstones, sapphires, and diamonds, which sold for $95,250 in June 2025. The glowing moonstones form the body of a jellyfish, while sapphire-set arms and moving tentacles give it a lifelike, underwater feel. Another standout work is the Seven Butterflies Bracelet, which achieved $66,040 at auction in June 2025. Composed of butterfly-shaped links crafted from diamonds and multicolored sapphires.
One exceptional example of his floral creations is this Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, and Diamond Brooch which sold for 1,744,000 CHF in November 2022. Centered on a 92.01-carat unheated pink Ceylon sapphire, the brooch is framed by intertwined branches set with sapphire and diamond leaves, showcasing Schlumberger’s masterful ability to blend nature and fantasy. His flora and fauna designs evoke a dreamlike world where everyday motifs are reimagined as intricate, wearable works of art.By transforming delicate ideas into bold, imaginative expressions, Schlumberger redefined the boundaries of fine jewelry and elevated it to an art form.
Croisillon Bracelets
Perhaps no design better exemplifies Schlumberger’s mastery of color, form, and surface than the Croisillon bracelet. Introduced in the 1960s, these bangles feature hand-applied paillonné enamel in vivid hues—turquoise, coral, yellow, black—over crisscrossed gold frameworks. The word croisillon means “crosshatch” in French, a reference to the bracelet’s textured grid-like motif.
Each Tiffany Schlumberger bracelet is painstakingly made: enamel is layered over gold foil, then fired multiple times to achieve a radiant, almost glassy finish. The geometric pattern, paired with the bold color palette, gives the bracelet a contemporary edge, yet it remains utterly timeless. Jacqueline Kennedy made the Croisillon famous by stacking multiple versions at once, an early example of high-low layering that still influences jewelry styling today.
Today, vintage Croisillon bracelets are among the most collectible pieces of Schlumberger jewelry. This turquoise Croisillon bracelet sold for 107,950 in June 2025. Modern reissues remain faithful to the original, preserving the same meticulous craftsmanship and joyful aesthetic that made the design a sensation.
Sixteen Stone Ring
Jean Schlumberger’s Sixteen Stone Ring, introduced in 1959, is a quietly powerful expression of love, memory, and craftsmanship. Inspired by his family’s heritage in textile design, Schlumberger drew from the cross-stitch motif—an emblem of connection and resilience—to create a ring that weaves meaning into every detail. A classic example is this Sixteen Stone Ring that alternates round brilliant diamonds with golden Xs for a striking and timeless look. Each stone is carefully calibrated and placed to evoke a sense of fluidity and ease, as though gently nestled into the metal rather than rigidly set. This attention to proportion and spacing transforms a seemingly simple pattern into something deeply harmonious and emotionally resonant.
Beyond its visual symmetry, the Sixteen Stone Ring captures the idea of life as a tapestry, with each stone representing a moment—an encounter, a promise, a shared milestone. The alternating gems evoke both contrast and cohesion, echoing the natural rhythm of relationships and personal growth. Whether worn as a wedding band, a personal emblem, or a collector’s piece, the Sixteen Stone Ring is a subtle yet striking symbol of enduring connection and refined artistry.
The Enduring Influence of Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
More than thirty years after his passing, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. remains one of the most celebrated names in high jewelry. Famed for his inventive use of color, form, and nature-inspired motifs, Tiffany Schlumberger designs are instantly recognizable and continue to captivate collectors worldwide. Signature creations such as the Bird on a Rock, Croisillon bracelets, and his richly detailed botanical brooches reveal Schlumberger’s unmatched ability to animate precious metals and gemstones. Today, Tiffany & Co. continues to honor his legacy by producing many of his original designs, ensuring that Schlumberger jewelry remains both relevant and celebrated by new generations of jewelry enthusiasts.
Meanwhile, vintage and rare Tiffany Schlumberger pieces have become increasingly sought-after, consistently achieving exceptional results at auction and commanding strong interest in the secondary market. For collectors and connoisseurs, his work represents more than just masterful craftsmanship—it reflects a singular creative vision that helped shape the identity of modern jewelry. Schlumberger’s pieces spark curiosity and admiration decades after they were first created, offering lasting proof that great design transcends time. His legacy not only endures but continues to inspire, standing as a testament to the timeless artistry that defines the Tiffany Schlumberger name.
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