Handbags and Accessories

Hermès Birkin Sellier: A More Structured Birkin Bag

By Lindsey Weiss
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Hermès Birkin Sellier Faubourg
Hermès Birkin Sellier Faubourg

History of the Hermès Birkin Sellier

For decades Hermès collectors have had to choose between two different Kelly bags: Retourne and Sellier. The two different constructions create two different bags. Sellier Kelly bags display the stitching on the exterior giving the bag a stiff straight edge, whereas Retourne Kelly bags hide the stitching on the interior and display soft curved edges with leather piping framing the bag. Until Recently, all Hermès Birkin bags were made in Retourne construction, though a few years ago Hermès began producing Birkin bags with Sellier edges. The Sellier Birkin design made its first appearance in 2014 with limited edition Vache Hunter in 40cm size These Birkin bags were unlined and featured many unique design elements.

Hermès Birkin Sellier 25 Craie Epsom Gold Hardware

A few years later Hermès began producing Sellier Birkin bags with fully realized interiors and has kept producing them since. Sellier Birkin bags are found in 25, 30 and 35cm sizes in a number of leathers including Box, Epsom, Madame, Monsieur, and Vache Naturelle Grainee. Since 2020, Sellier Birkin bags have had a presence in the auction market, though still only account for about 5% of Birkin bags sold at auction. The average price at auction has continued to rise, nearing $28,000 in 2022, 70% above Retourne Birkin bag average price of $16,500. These numbers account for bags between 25 and 35cm, excluding limited editions, exotics and special orders. Sellier Kelly bags have averaged between 25% and 35% above Retourne Kelly bags during the same period, with prices rising about 10% annually. Average prices for Retourne Kelly bags recently topped $15,000, with Sellier Kelly bags nearing $20,000.

Hermès Birkin Sellier Faubourg

Birkin Sellier Faubourg

The ultra-collectible 20cm Hermès Faubourg Sellier Birkin was first released in 2019 with day and night versions featuring intricate façades crafted from multiple leathers evoking the architecture of Hermès’ flagship Paris boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, and matte Alligator flaps. An instant hit with collectors, these Birkin bags have averaged over $160,000 at auction, more than three times their reported retail price of under $50,000. In 2021 and 2022 new La Neige and Midnight So Black versions were released. The La Neige Faubourg Birkin features a matte Beton Alligator body and snow atop the Orange awnings. The Midnight Birkin Faubourg has black PVD hardware reminiscent of that used in the highly collectible So Black collection, and glowing yellow windows. These two trade privately for upwards of $300,000. Collecting all four of these tiny treasures is a mark of achievement for any Hermes collector, and the full set is sometimes referred to as a Beijing Courtyard or a Place du Faubourg.

Hermès Birkin Sellier Sunrise and Sunset

Hermès Birkin Selliers: Sunrise & Sunset

Hermès released the Sunrise and Sunset Birkin bags featuring bold curved stripes of color set against a 35cm Sellier Birkin frame in 2020 with palladium hardware. Averaging around $34,000 at auction, the curve on these Birkin bags is derived from the curve of a Birkins’ top edge. Recently a third colorway has been seen in Bolides, evoking dusk, though this has yet to be seen on a Birkin.

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