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Insider's Guide to Special Order HSS Hermès Birkin and Kelly Bags
Learn everything about Hermès Special Order (HSS) Birkin and Kelly bags, from choosing colors and materials to navigating the exclusive process.
Special Order HSS Hermès Bags
For fashion enthusiasts and collectors, a Hermès Birkin or Kelly bag represents the pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity. Yet, within the realm of Hermès craftsmanship lies an even more rarefied category: Special Order bags. Recognizable by the discreet horseshoe stamp (HSS) placed beside the Hermès brand logo, these bags are the ultimate expression of personalization, creativity, and prestige.
Special Order Hermès bags are a testament to the brand’s dedication to individuality and excellence. With roots in bespoke equestrian goods, Hermès has extended its customization expertise to create one-of-a-kind handbags for its most loyal clients. From selecting colors and leathers to unique design elements, Special Order Birkin and Kelly bags offer an unparalleled opportunity to own a personalized masterpiece. This guide explores the fascinating world of HSS Hermès bags, their history, customization options, and their standing in the resale market.
Key Takeaways: Special Order HSS Hermès Birkin & Kelly Bags
| Category | Notable Features |
| Definition | Custom-made Birkin and Kelly bags marked with the Horseshoe Stamp (HSS), symbolizing ultimate personalization and exclusivity. |
| History | Introduced in 2006, though Hermès had offered bespoke designs long before; reflects the brand’s equestrian and artisanal roots. |
| Customization | Clients select leather, color, stitching, and hardware; options include bi-color and Verso interiors and four strap lengths for Kellys. |
| 2025 Updates | Sellier Birkins (25 & 30) removed from the list; ostrich leather discontinued; hardware choices remain at six finishes. |
| Exotic Updates | VVIP clients can order in Matte or Polished Crocodile and Alligator; rare designs often exceed $190,000 at auction. |
| Resale Value | HSS bags represent <15% of Hermès auction sales. Prices vary widely with complimentary neutral colors selling for the highest prices. |
| Collector Appeal | Coveted for unique color pairings and timeless craftsmanship, making them among the most desirable Hermès pieces in existence. |
The History of Hermes Special Order Bags
Special Order bags are deeply embedded in Hermès’ history. The company’s origins in crafting bespoke equestrian gear naturally extended to their iconic handbags. The practice of creating custom designs has long been part of the Hermès ethos, but it wasn’t until 2006 that the horseshoe stamp (HSS) was introduced as a symbol of Special Order pieces. Before this, custom bags could only be identified by their unique qualities.
In some cases, custom designs have served as inspiration for mainline collections. The iconic Birkin bag itself originated as a custom piece created in 1984 for actress Jane Birkin. Similarly, the Birkin 30 size was introduced in the mid-1990s after clients requested smaller versions of the standard 35 and 40 cm Birkins.
Ultimate Customization: The Horizon Service
For those seeking even greater levels of exclusivity, Hermès offers its Horizon Service. This bespoke department works with clients to create original, one-of-a-kind designs, including handbags, luggage, furniture, and even custom interiors for yachts, private planes, or helicopters. The Horizon Service epitomizes the brand’s commitment to collaboration, craftsmanship, and innovation, ensuring no challenge is too ambitious.
Some Horizon Service creations have inspired regular production pieces, such as the Osier Wicker Fishing Bag and the R.M.S. suitcase. Others, like the Susan bag, remain unique to their original clients unless produced with explicit permission. This service represents the ultimate expression of Hermès’ artistry and dedication to personalized luxury.
Customization Options for HSS Birkin and Kelly Bags in 2025
Each year, Hermès releases an updated selection of customization options for its Special Order program. In 2025, while most color choices remain consistent with previous years, certain notable updates have been made. The Birkin Sellier sizes 25 and 30 have been removed from the Special Order list, limiting Sellier Birkin customization. Meanwhile, ostrich leather is no longer available for Special Orders, narrowing the selection of exotic options. Clients may still customize their Birkin or Kelly bags with a variety of leathers, including Clemence, Togo, Swift, Epsom, and Chèvre. Exotic options remain available for VVIP clients, with choices such as Matte and Polished Crocodile and Alligator.
When it comes to colors, Hermès continues to emphasize timeless neutrals and rich jewel tones. The 2025 palette features a mix of classic shades like Noir, Gold, and Etoupe, alongside vibrant hues such as Bleu Zellige, Vert Rousseau, and Rouge Sellier. Clients can opt for monochromatic designs, bi-color configurations, or Verso combinations, where the interior color contrasts with the exterior. The process of designing an HSS Birkin and HSS Kelly bags involves selecting not only the leather and colors but also the stitching, which can be tone-on-tone or contrasting. Hardware options for 2025 remain extensive, with six choices available: Gold, Brushed Gold, Palladium, Brushed Palladium, Rose Gold, and Permabrass. However, Mini Kellys are not eligible for brushed gold or brushed palladium hardware.
Additionally, Kelly Special Orders come with the option to customize the shoulder strap length. Clients can choose from four lengths: 70 cm, 85 cm, 105 cm, or 120 cm, allowing for a more tailored fit to their lifestyle needs.
Exotic HSS Birkin and Kelly Bags
For Hermès clients with unparalleled spending power, exotic Special Order bags represent the zenith of luxury. These bespoke creations often feature rare leathers like alligator or crocodile and command jaw-dropping prices on the secondary market. A standout example is a HSS Mini Kelly 20 II in Matte Kraft and Gris Perle Alligator, which sold for over $192,000 at a Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong.
Exotic Special Orders may also include additional customizations, such as repositioned interior pockets, extended shoulder strap lengths for Kelly bags, or the addition of monogramming. However, monogramming is discouraged for clients who may consider reselling their bags in the future.
Resale Value of HSS Hermès Bags
In the secondary market, HSS bags represent a small but highly coveted segment, accounting for less than 15% of Hermès Birkins and Kellys sold at auction. The prices and demand for these bags varies widely based on the color combination. Neutral combinations are often the most coveted and sell for the biggest premium, while bright contrasting color combinations appeal to the fewest number of buyers, resulting in the lowest prices.
Frequently Asked Questions About Special Order HSS Hermès Birkin & Kelly Bags
How Can You Get a Special Order Hermès Bag?
Special Order (HSS) opportunities are offered exclusively to Hermès’ most loyal clients with an established purchase history. Invitations to design a personalized Birkin or Kelly are extended selectively—often once or twice a year—through a trusted sales associate. Clients then choose their preferred leather, color combinations, hardware, and stitching to create a one-of-a-kind piece.
What Makes an HSS Hermès Bag More Valuable?
HSS bags are marked by the discreet horseshoe stamp, signifying their custom-made status. Each bag features unique design elements, color pairings, or leathers unavailable in standard production. Because of their rarity and individuality, HSS Birkins and Kellys can achieve resale prices up to 50% higher than regular models, particularly when crafted in timeless neutrals or exotic skins.
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