Hermès Haut à Courroies: The Original Birkin Bag
Learn about the Hermès Haut à Courroies, the original luxury travel bag that paved the way for the legendary Birkin.
The Legacy of the Haut à Courroies
For over a century, Hermès has been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and innovation. Among its most historic creations stands the Haut à Courroies (HAC)—a bag that not only marked the beginning of Hermès’ leather-goods legacy but also served as the direct inspiration for the Birkin bag.
Originally crafted in the early 1900s, the HAC was designed to carry equestrian essentials like saddles and riding boots with effortless refinement. Its tall, structured silhouette and “high belt” closure earned it its name—haut à courroies translates literally to “high straps.” Over the decades, Hermès refined the design while preserving its enduring proportions and artisanal details, ensuring the HAC remained an emblem of luxury and function.
Today, the Hermès HAC is a collector favorite—especially among male buyers who favor its commanding proportions as a travel or business bag. Smaller versions, meanwhile, appeal to modern collectors who appreciate its connection to the Birkin’s storied heritage.
Key Takeaways: Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC)
| Category | Key Insight |
|---|---|
| Origin | Debuted in the early 20th century to carry equestrian gear such as saddles and boots; the first Hermès bag ever made. |
| Design Significance | Inspired the design of the Birkin bag; its tall, structured profile and "high belt" straps define its signature look. |
| Rarity | Larger HACs (40–60 cm) are less frequently produced, making them highly collectible, especially in exotic skins. |
| Market Popularity | Highly coveted among collectors for its rarity, craftsmanship, and historical link to the Birkin. |
| Auction Highlights | The most expensive HAC sold at Sotheby’s was a Black Matte Crocodile HAC 40 (2020), which achieved $94,000 in 2025. |
| Collector Appeal | Coveted as the original Birkin design. Sotheby’s has sold nearly $2 million in HAC bags since 2021. |
From Equestrian Utility to Design Icon
The HAC holds a special place in Hermès history. When Jean-Louis Dumas famously sketched a bag for Jane Birkin on a flight from London to Paris, he drew inspiration directly from the Haut à Courroies. Its structured shape, double top handles, and belted flap became the foundation for what would become the Birkin bag—arguably the world’s most coveted handbag.
This lineage cements the HAC as the original Birkin, the prototype that defined a century of Hermès design innovation.
Evolution of the Hermès HAC
As Hermès evolved its range, the HAC was reimagined in smaller, more wearable sizes. While early HACs were produced primarily in 40 to 60 cm, later versions appeared in 32, 35, and even 28 cm formats—appealing to collectors who wanted a more compact take on the classic.
Distinct from the Birkin, the HAC features taller proportions, shorter handles, and unique hardware details such as a square-tipped spindle and tubular pontets. These subtle traits make the HAC instantly recognizable to connoisseurs.
Over the past decade, demand has surged for rare HAC models in exotic skins, particularly crocodile and ostrich, driving strong results on the secondary market. Sotheby’s has sold nearly $2 million in HAC bags since 2021, underscoring the model’s enduring appeal among Hermès collectors.
Limited Edition and Collector HACs
In recent years, Hermès has expanded the HAC family through a series of limited-edition releases that highlight the brand’s artistry and craftsmanship. Notable examples include the Rock HAC, inspired by a classic biker jacket, which incorporates chain accents and exterior pockets into smooth black leather.
Other limited editions feature leather marquetry, embroidery, and hand-painted finishes, elevating the HAC from functional heritage piece to artistic statement. Larger editions (45–60 cm) remain especially scarce and collectible, while compact HAC 35s and 32s are increasingly sought after by collectors who appreciate the silhouette’s vintage-meets-modern balance.
Among standout sales, a Black Matte Crocodile Birkin HAC 40 realized $94,000 USD in 2025, setting a new record for the model at Sotheby’s and reflecting the bag’s elevated position within Hermès’ collectible hierarchy.
The Modern HAC à Dos
Hermès continues to evolve its longest-running design for a new generation. The HAC à Dos, introduced in recent years, transforms the traditional silhouette into a compact crossbody backpack. Crafted in Barenia Faubourg leather and finished with Amazone canvas straps, the HAC à Dos combines heritage hardware with everyday versatility. Available in PM and GM sizes, it bridges past and present—proof that the original Hermès design continues to inspire innovation more than a century later.
Enduring Legacy of the Hermès HAC
From its beginnings as a utility bag to its role as the foundation of the Birkin, the Hermès Haut à Courroies has remained one of the maison’s most enduring icons. Whether used as a functional travel companion or collected as a historic design milestone, the HAC embodies the craftsmanship, rarity, and timeless sophistication that define Hermès.
FAQs: Understanding the Hermès HAC
What makes the Hermès HAC so valuable?
The HAC’s value lies in its rarity and heritage—it’s the original Hermès bag that inspired the Birkin. Collectors prize its structured silhouette, tall proportions, and equestrian roots. Limited production and high craftsmanship make vintage and exotic HACs especially desirable on the secondary market.
How is the Hermès HAC different than a Birkin?
While visually similar, the HAC is taller, with shorter handles and a narrower depth. The Birkin, designed for daily use, has a wider base and slightly softer structure. The HAC’s proportions give it a more architectural look—one that many collectors find even more timeless.
Are HAC bags still produced by Hermès today?
Yes. Hermès continues to produce the HAC in select leathers and limited editions, including the HAC à Dos backpack version. Modern models are often made-to-order or appear in limited quantities, making them rare finds both in boutiques and at auction.
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