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10 Iconic Chanel House Codes Reinterpreted by Karl Lagerfeld
Appointed in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure at Chanel elevated the maison into an unparalleled symbol of contemporary luxury.
“A n extraordinary creative individual, Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the brand's codes created by Gabrielle Chanel: the Chanel jacket and suit, the little black dress, the precious tweeds, the two-tone shoes, the quilted handbags, the pearls and costume jewelry." So began the maison’s tribute to the maverick German designer upon his death in 2019. Channeling Coco Chanel’s pioneering spirit, Lagerfeld conjured up kaleidoscopic reinterpretations and tributes to Coco Chanel’s flair, legacy, and artistry over more than three decades as Chanel’s creative director.
“My job is not to do what she did, but what she would have done. The good thing about Chanel is it is an idea you can adapt to many things.”
Karl Lagerfeld
Below are 10 classic Chanel house codes presented through the inimitable lens of Karl Lagerfeld.
The Tweed Jacket
In the mid 1920s, Coco Chanel began to integrate tweed into her designs – a nubby, durable textile that was traditionally used for men’s sportswear and tailoring. Lagerfeld reimagined tweed across a plethora of configurations, including two-piece sets, mid-length jackets and midi dresses, utilising the versatility and comfort of tweed to its full potential.
Two-Tone
Form meets function is a common thread linking Coco Chanel’s revolutionary two-toned shoes and Lagerfeld’s elegant two-tone cardigans. Well constructed with pockets for practicality that Mademoiselle Chanel herself would surely have adored, Lagerfeld’s two-toned cardigans are a chic and practical wardrobe staple.
Pearls
Coco Chanel’s preference for accessorising her outfits with multiple strands of faux pearl costume jewellery remains a vital house code of Chanel. The lustrous costume pearl continues to be used as a form of theatrical ornamentation in Lagerfeld’s designs.
Gold Chain
The gold chain is another homage to Coco Chanel’s playful use of costume jewellery, and her deconstruction of conventional garments such as jackets, in which a chain was traditionally sewn along the bottom hem to weigh it down. A single gold chain creates an understated look, whilst thicker layered chains make for the ultimate statement accessory.
Interwoven Chain
Inspiration for the interwoven chain was said to have originated from the keychains used by nuns at Coco Chanel’s Aubazine orphanage. Widely known as the iconic Chanel 2.55 bag chain, Lagerfeld reimagined the interwoven chain on belts, ribbed corsets and jacket trims.
Interlocking CC Monogram
Though designed by Coco Chanel herself in 1925, it wasn’t until Lagerfeld’s helm that the CC logo became an ubiquitous symbol of modern luxury. Lagerfeld deployed the monogram across the house, most famously on the clasp of the Chanel flap bag as we know it today.
Monochrome
A striking image of Lagerfeld comes to mind – black fingerless leather gloves, a shock of white hair tied in a neat ponytail, dark shades, an impeccable white collared shirt. Whether channelling mystery or paying homage to Coco Chanel’s revolutionary Little Black Dress, Lagerfeld explored the versatility of the colour dichotomy, launching endlessly inventive interpretations of the monochromatic look onto the runway.
Floral Appliqués
A connoisseur of ornamentation, Coco Chanel adopted textile flowers to evoke floral motifs all year around. Likewise, Lagerfeld’s designs often played with three-dimensional depth and materiality, brought to life through the lightness and intricacy of tulle and chiffon appliqué flowers.
Camellia
Signifying simplicity and purity, the camellia was favoured by Coco Chanel, who first pinned one of the white blooms to her belt in 1913. Lagerfeld affirmed the white camelia as an emblem of the house: a quintessential motif of Chanel brooches, fine jewellery, headpieces, and couture.
The Bride
Concluding in true Lagerfeld fashion, since the 1980s Chanel haute couture shows have culminated in the highly anticipated Chanel Couture bride finale, a coveted look shown on Lagerfeld’s muse du jour that encapsulates both the stylistic flair and conceptual motifs of the collection. During Lagerfelds tenure, Chanel Couture brides included Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Natalia Vodianova, Devon Aoki, Cara Delevingne and Vittoria Ceretti.
