Art on the Runway: Céline, Valentino & More

Photo via @voguerunway

Céline Does Yves Klein Blue

With uncomplicated silhouettes that exude effortless confidence, Céline masters that contemporary it-girl look, much like its minimalist-chic creative director, Phoebe Philo. Among Céline’s Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection’s refreshingly colourful ensembles, the clear standouts for us were the white pieces bursting with Yves Klein’s signature blue. A few looks seemed to directly reference Klein’s 1960s Anthropometry performance art in which nude female bodies were used as human paintbrushes.

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Photo via @londonfashionweek

Mary Katrantzou’s Contemporary Greek Goddesses

For her spring collection, Mary Katrantzou chanelled her Greek heritage and propensity for bold and colourful prints. Although an unexpected combination, the geometric patterns of the psychedelic design naturally lend themselves to the zigzagging, angular motifs of ancient Greek art. In a variety of silhouettes, including blazers, trousers and slinky gowns, Katrantzou incorporates both the shapes and content of ancient Greek ceramics, think curved vases and profiles of men in armour and women in flowing peplos.

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Photo via @n3.design

Valentino’s Garden of Earthly Delights

In his solo design debut for Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli brought a more casual, yet characteristically romantic, aesthetic to the Spring 2017 collection . For what would Valentino be without rich textiles, medieval references and fairy-tale frocks? Adding to the fantastical effect of the pink and green palette, a few of the garments’ prints bore an uncanny resemblance to Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights. Furthering the connection, Picciolo held an afterparty with the same Bosch theme at a French mansion complete with bountiful fruit, flowers and candles.

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Photo via @notthing

Hugo Boss Meets David Hockney

Jason Wu’s latest collection for Hugo Boss brought the art of David Hockney to the runway. Designs featured vibrant blues, corals and greens in carefree summer-ready shapes that would surely make the wearer the most trend-setting guest at any pool party. A floral, camo-esque motif of the same colours was particularly reminiscent of Hockney’s squiggly swimming pool patterns.

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Photo via @driesvannoten

Melting Flowers at Dries Van Noten

One of the most breathtaking shows this season was undoubtedly Dries Van Noten . No stranger to artistic collaboration – he recently designed costumes for the New York City Ballet – the Belgian designer showcased the creations of Japanese flower artist Azuma Makoto alongside his Spring 2017 collection. For the show, Makoto enveloped colourful and rare flowers in enormous ice sculptures which decorated the runway. With the melting of ice came a melding of cultures – few could combine Edwardian sleeves and necklines, 1930s hems and 1990s grunge with sumptuous silks and beads as Van Noten brilliantly did.

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Photo via @kenzo

Kenzo’s Living Sculptures

Sequins, denim, figure-forming bralettes, nylon tracksuits, repurposed photos as prints – Carol Lim and Humberto Leon held nothing back when designing their latest collection for Kenzo . Set in Paris’s Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine, the show transported guests to a 1970s disco, 1990s club and classical art museum all at once. As models walked the runway, men and women, mostly painted and nude to blend in with the hallway’s actual sculptures, were posed along the way. While few could forget the full-frontal nudity at Rick Owens’ Fall 2015 Menswear show, it’s safe to say that’s Kenzo’s unclothed living sculptures were equally memorable, not to mention a striking celebration of the human form.

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Photo via @adeam

ADEAM Styles Japanese Calligraphy

For her Spring 2017 collection, Hanako Maeda, designer and founder of ready-to-wear label ADEAM , looked to shodo, the Japanese art of calligraphy. Abstract calligraphy-inspired scribbles brought whimsy to the collection’s neutral palette, which was also enlivened by pops of greyish blue and poppy red. At ADEAM’s presentation, Japanese calligrapher and performance artist Aoi Yamaguchi was on hand, actively painting a backdrop for the feminine collection.

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Photo via @tmagazine

Phelan and the Art of the Fold

With a background in dance and painting, it may only have been Amanda Phelan’s third collection, but her Spring 2017 show was remarkably thoughtful in its artistic interpretations. Inspired by painter Caitlin MacBride, Phelan experimented with a slew of materials and techniques to emulate MacBride’s depictions of folded fabric. The idea of folding and unfolding – and undeniable femininity – was echoed by an all-female group of contemporary dancers from VIM VIGOR company, whose theatrical choreography also revolved around folding chairs.

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Photo via @tysonandpeppa

Dion Lee Channels Kinetic Art

Australian designer Dion Lee is a fashion crowd favourite for luxe sportswear, typically with hints of sheen or interesting cutouts. Lee was inspired by German artists Heinz Mack and Günther Uecker in his new collection, which sought to interpret the lightness and movement of kinetic art through airy fabrics, revealing pleats and linear design. While the collection is relatively minimalistic, a closer look at the subtle details reveals the optical-illusion effect often produced by kinetic art.

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