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Why Collectors Are Clamoring for Pearl Jewelry
Learn More about Rare and Desirable Natural and Cultured Pearls
History and Provenance Of Pearl Jewelry
There is something truly magical about natural pearls. As they are a true miracle of nature, natural pearls stand out in many jewelry creations as some of the most timeless and admired. Pearls are known to symbolize love, beauty, and power. Throughout history, pearls have been worn by Emperors, Royals, and movie stars.
Today, natural pearls are increasingly rare. Due to the increase in ocean pollution, the source of natural pearls is nearly depleted. The majority of natural saltwater pearls were harvested 100 years ago. In the past few decades, cultured pearls have risen in popularity. Within high fashion, pearls are more prominent than ever on runways, celebrities, and in popular culture. Pearls have also been popularized on social media by both men and women. Most famously, Timothée Chalamet is known for sporting pearls day to night. Natural and cultured pearls are timeless and essential for every jewelry collection.
Difference Between Natural and Cultured Pearls
There is a distinct difference between cultured pearls and natural pearls. Natural Pearls are formed by nature without any human intervention. The formation of a pearl happens when an irritant enters a mollusk. The mullusk will secrete layers of nacre, a combination of aragonite and conchiolin, around the irritant. Over time a pearl forms inside naturally. A cultured pearl is created through human intervention. The process for creating a cultured pearl is the same except a small bead or piece of tissue is intentionally inserted into a mollusk to stimulate the production of nacre.
Why Natural Pearls Are So Expensive
The spectacular prices of natural pearls are determined by size, shape, surface quality, luster, and nacre. A ten-millimeter diameter is a benchmark for a natural pearl. The nacre of a pearl refers to its thickness and quality. Thicker nacre usually indicates a higher quality and higher price. Pearls around ten-millimeter size can be anywhere from $1,000 to $10,000+ per pearl. The smoothness and luster of the skin is always an indication of value. The highest quality pearls with no imperfections are scarce. The best way to evaluate the luster of a pearl is the way it reflects light; the more mirror-like appearance, the higher the value.
Color is also very important. A white-cream color with light pink overtones is the most desirable. Additionally, natural-colored pearls are increasingly sought after. Multi-colored hues of gray, green, pink, and purple are also currently trending. Natural pearls with distinguished historical provenance are very popular by discerning collectors and have been featured in many of Sotheby’s auctions.
Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage, 406,400 CHF
The Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage sold for 406,400 CHF in May 2025, marking a standout moment in the market for antique pearl jewelry. Designed as entwined serpents grasping a central button-shaped pearl, this extraordinary piece suspends three detachable, slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl pendants—measuring up to 26.20 mm in length—from similarly set button pearls. The serpents are richly adorned with old cushion-shaped, oval, and rose-cut diamonds, while their eyes gleam with cabochon rubies, adding a vivid accent to the design’s symbolic elegance. This rare devant-de-corsage blends natural beauty with historic craftsmanship, capturing the fascination of discerning collectors.
Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, 508,000CHF
The Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace sold for 508,000 CHF in May 2025, underscoring the growing demand for exceptional pearl jewelry among collectors. This exquisite piece features a graceful foliate design suspending a fringe of slightly baroque oval and drop-shaped natural pearls, ranging in size from approximately 13.45 – 14.80 x 19.90 mm to 10.90 – 13.10 x 14.20 mm. Embellished with marquise-shaped, brilliant-cut, tapered baguette, and baguette diamonds, the necklace showcases a harmonious balance of organic beauty and refined sparkle. This remarkable necklace is a testament to the enduring allure and rarity of natural pearls in high jewelry.
Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings, 495,300 CHF
This pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings sold for 495,300 CHF in May 2025, further underscoring the enduring appeal of natural pearls in fine jewelry. Each earring features a luminous drop-shaped natural pearl suspended from a refined surmount adorned with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds. Fitted with post and hinged backs for elegant wear, the design offers a graceful blend of timeless sophistication and understated opulence. This exquisite pair represents the rarity and prestige that continue to captivate collectors seeking heirloom-quality pearl jewelry.
Cultured Pearls
Cultured pearls have been in fashion for decades, as the source of natural pearls is extremely low. The creation of cultured pearls involves human intervention. The process involves implanting a small bead or piece of tissue into an oyster or mollusk, which then secretes layers of nacre around the irritant, forming a pearl. This process can take years as it takes time for the pearls to grow within the oyster or mollusk. Cultured pearls have revolutionized the pearl industry by making these gems more accessible. While they may be more accessible than natural pearls, cultured pearls are still very expensive.
Exceptional Natural Pearls At Auction
Given the rarity of high quality natural pearls, we are seeing impressive prices due to strong demand relative to supply. As a global market leader in sourcing exceptional natural pearl jewelry, Sotheby’s has achieved numerous record-breaking results for natural pearl necklaces and pendants in recent years. One of the most iconic examples is the Marie Antoinette 18th Century Pearl and Dimond Pendant, which sold for 36M CHF, approximately $41M. This historically significant jewel features one of the largest known natural pearls, measuring 15.90 x 18.35 x 25.85 mm—roughly the size of a goji berry.
Another incredible auction result was this Superb natural pearl and diamond necklace, which realized 1M CHF, approximately $1.1M at auction. The market for natural pearl necklaces has shown remarkable strength, fueled by their growing popularity and extreme scarcity.
In June 2024, A Natural Pearl and Cultured Pearl necklace sold for $552,000, more than seven times its high estimate of $70,000. Similarly, a Tiffany & Co Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace sold for $300,000, far surpassing its high estimate of $60,000.
These exceptional results reflect the enduring allure and investment value of natural pearl jewelry, reaffirming its status as one of the most coveted categories in the fine jewelry market today.
Advantages to Buying Pearl Jewelry on the Secondary Market
There are many advantages to buying pearl jewelry at Sotheby's. As one of the largest and most established global luxury secondary markets, Sotheby's offers clients many unique advantages when growing a pearl jewelry collection.
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of pearl jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine pearl jewelry, including rare and historic pieces from an assortment of designers. Our jewelry specialists are continually sourcing the most desirable pearl jewels from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one-of-a-kind antique and vintage pearl creations.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase pearl jewelry including auction, online and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing specific pearl jewels that aren't available at auction or online.
3. Value
As a leading global secondary market, Sotheby's often provides great value for pearl jewelry. While Sotheby's regularly sells pearl jewels over $200,000, many exceptional pieces sell for below the original retail price. Signed pearl pieces can experience a 30 to 40% decrease from retail price to secondary market. Non-signed pearl jewelry may fluctuate based on the current market price for the pearls and accompanying materials. The discount varies depending on the jewelry's design, quality, size of the pearls and gem stones, and overall market conditions. Some pearl jewelry can also sell at a premium to the original retail, especially for one of a kind vintage designs, pearl jewelry with provenance linked to celebrities and/or royalty, and pieces featuring exceptionally rare or historic pearls. Sotheby's is a great place to start collecting pearl jewelry. Sotheby's also provides seasoned collectors value for vintage pearl jewelry at prices that can be materially lower than retail replacement values.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury secondary market is discovering unique pieces from decades earlier and custom designed one of a kind pearl jewelry pieces. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of pearl jewels. You are likely to discover something new to you.
Buy and Sell Pearl Jewelry at Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible pearl jewelry available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of pearl jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view pearl jewelry in person, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source pearl jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for pearl jewelry start around $4,000 for classic designs and rise significantly for more coveted pieces. Iconic creations, such as antique natural pearl necklaces and historic brooches, can exceed $558,000.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Jewelry Specialist about selling pearl jewelry.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
