The Most Popular Hermès Leathers
While crocodile and alligator Hermès bags dominate the headlines for the rarest and most desirable, Hermès is best known for its fine leathers that most would argue are the best in the world. Hermès leather is exclusively ‘full grain’ leather with an ‘intact and unaltered’ top layer. Hermès prides itself on the quality and durability of their leathers. Over the decades, this has amounted to dozens of different grains and finishes, many of which have been discontinued and are considered incredibly rare. While Hermès has over 20 different leathers, there are five that are the most popular with Hermès bag collectors.
Learn more about the unique qualities of the top Hermès bag leathers.
Hermès Togo Leather: Most Durable Classic
The most popular and durable Hermès leather is Togo leather. This supple, irregularly grained calfskin was first introduced in 1997 – a big year for Hermès that also saw the introduction of the Birkin 30 and a new design for strap clasps that is still in use today. Beloved by Hermès bag collectors for its scratch and water resistance, Hermès Togo leather is also relatively lightweight when compared to other grained leathers, like Hermès Clemence or Hermès Fjord. With use, Hermès Togo develops a slight sheen and becomes more supple. Though Hermès Togo leather is the most common among all Birkin and Kelly styles, it is never used in making a Kelly Cu or Kelly Pochettes. Togo leather is also never used for making the Hermès Constance in any size. Togo leather is most commonly used to make Birkin or Hermès Kelly bag in the more relaxed Retourne style. There are Hermès Togo Kelly bags in Sellier and are given the special moniker ‘Mou,’ denoting their use of a supple leather in a structured construction.
Hermès Epsom Leather: Structured & Vibrant Favorite
Hermès Epsom leather is the second most popular leather. This heat-pressed Epsom leather features a small cross-hatched grain that gives the leather a unique stiffness and durability. Epsom leather is a favorite for the more structured Sellier Birkin and Kelly bags. Replacing Courchevel leather in 2004, Epsom leather quickly became a favorite among Hermès bag collectors for its exceptional ability to display vibrant colors. This was showcased to great effect when Epsom leather was selected as the exclusive material for the 2010 Candy Collection, which paired new neon colors with contrasting interiors. Produced in nearly every style and size, this Hermès leather has proven its ability to hold up with heavy use, resisting water and most scratches. Hermès Epsom leather bags tend to hold their shape better than most others, except for stiff leathers like Box and Tadelakt.
Hermès Clemence Leather: Togo Leather Counterpart
Veau Taurillon Clemence or Clemence was originally introduced in 1992 and is the third leather on our list. Clemence leather was named for the daughter of the designer who introduced it into Hermès’ collections. Clemence is a large grained that is produced by a technique called Drumming which softens the skin and has a matte appearance. It is often mistaken for Togo leather since both are made from male bull calves. Clemence leather is heavier and slouchier than Togo but is very durable and scratch resistant. Clemence is less water resistant and Water spots can mark Clemence leather bags if not wiped promptly. Clemence leather is often used to make Picotin, Lindy and Jypsière bags.
Hermès Box Leather: Leather With A Legacy
The oldest Hermès leather on this list by far, Box Calf leather, has been used by Hermès since the 1890’s. Cemented in history, it was named to honor Joseph Box: famed cobbler to London’s petit bourgeoisie. Rigid and smooth with a semi-gloss finish, Hermès Box leather is renowned for its unique ability to patina over decades of use. While scratches are easily had and easily buffed out, over time this leather will develop a particular sheen that is enhanced with regular care. Vintage Hermès Box leather Kelly and Constance are highly sought after. Birkin bags have been produced in the Box leather as long as the style has existed. An Hermès Black Box Birkin or Kelly with Gold hardware has become a must have standard among Hermès bag collectors. This material, hardware and color combination represent the enduring history of Hermès' iconic designs. While still produced today, ‘store-fresh’ Box Birkin bag or Hermès Kelly bag are rare and difficult to find on the secondary market like Sotheby's.
Hermès Swift Leather: The Newest and Smoothest
Last (but newest) on our list is Hermès Swift leather. Replacing the discontinued Hermès Gulliver leather in 2006, Hermès Swift leather is set apart by its smooth, pillowy material and very fine grain. This unique grain absorbs color exceptionally well and reflects light to showcase Hermès’ prized hues to great effect. More easily scratched than the other materials on this list, Hermès Swift leather is most popular in small sizes, as large bags in this leather tend to lose their shape quickly. In 2018, Hermès introduced Jonathan leather, the next iteration in this line of soft smooth calfskins. Namely, we can only assume the next version will be called Travel leather, as Jonathan Swift wrote Gulliver’s Travels.
Hermès Chévre Leather: Honorable Mention
An honorable mention goes to Hermès Chévre leather which comes from India and has a distinct grain that is shiny, lightweight and scratch resistant. Most Hermès Chévre bags are produced via special order and limited to smaller bags. The most popular Hermès Chévre bags on the secondary market are the Mini Kelly 20 II. Other popular Hermès Chévre bags include Mini Constance, Mini Bolide, Kelly Elan and the new Geta.
Advantages to Collecting Hermès on the Secondary Market
There are many advantages to buying Hermès bags at Sotheby's. As one of the largest and most established global luxury secondary markets, Sotheby's offers clients many unique advantages when growing an Hermès collection.
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to some of the most exceptional Hermès bags through its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is one of the few global luxury marketplaces that sells rare and impressive Hermès bags exceeding $100,000 in addition to classic leather Birkin and Kelly bags in store fresh condition. Our Handbag specialists are always sourcing the best Hermès bags. Sotheby's global presence also means we are sourcing a wide range of Hermès bags including timeless classics, special vintage finds and rare limited edition bags. Sotheby's also regularly sells incredible private collections that can include custom designed Hermès bags. If you are looking to build a collection of Hermès bags, Sotheby's provides access to contemporary, vintage and one of a kind rare Hermès bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Hermès bags. While Sotheby's is most known for its global auctions, Sotheby's also sells Hermès online and also in salons in New York and Hong Kong. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Hermès bag that isn't available at auction or marketplace. Another advantage to Sotheby's is access to desirable Hermès bags that are special order and limited edition.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Hermès bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered an Hermès bag that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès quota bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing an Hermès bag.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury secondary market is discovering unique pieces from decades earlier, custom designed one of a kind bags and first look at the newest limited edition bags. Sotheby's curated selection is always changing since Hermès is one of the top brands at Sotheby's. Each auction has a unique selection of Hermès bags that may be familiar but a slight variation, never before seen design or a vintage treasure that has been on your wishlist for some time. Browse our latest auction or curated selection to get inspiration when building a collection of both contemporary and vintage Hermès bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buying and Selling Hermès Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find Birkin and Kelly bags in the most popular leathers every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware. Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Browse Hermès bags available for immediate shipping.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.