The Evolution of Limited Editions at Hermès
Under the creative direction of Christophe Lemaire, Hermès ushered in an exciting new chapter in the world of luxury fashion, focusing on creating coveted, limited-edition pieces that appealed to collectors worldwide. While Hermès had dabbled in exclusive releases in the past, it was Lemaire who truly solidified the concept of the ‘Limited Edition’ within the brand, particularly through the iconic Birkin and Kelly bags. His vision transformed these classic bags into seasonal masterpieces, coveted for their rare colorways and unique designs. Among his most celebrated contributions to Hermès’ legacy is the groundbreaking Candy Collection, a line that set the stage for the future of collectible fashion.
Christophe Lemaire: The Era of Editions
The transition from Jean-Paul Gaultier's bold and fantastical runway creations to Christophe Lemaire’s more restrained yet sophisticated vision marked a new era for Hermès. Lemaire, who took the creative reins in 2010, was already known for his work at Lacoste and had an eye for bringing timeless designs to life in modern ways. Under his leadership, Hermès embraced the idea of offering limited-edition bags each season—rare treasures that quickly became the object of desire for collectors.
While Hermès had introduced special editions before, such as the 1989 red, white, and blue Kelly bags celebrating the French Revolution’s bicentennial, Lemaire’s approach elevated the concept. His strategy involved releasing updated versions of the iconic Birkin and Kelly bags each season, adding new colors and combinations that caught the attention of bag aficionados. These bags became a mark of exclusivity, designed not only for the fashion-forward but also for those who sought to own a piece of Hermès history.
Hermès Candy Collection
Perhaps Lemaire’s most influential and recognized contribution to Hermès’ legacy of limited editions is the Candy Collection, which debuted in Spring 2011. The launch of this collection marked a departure from the more subdued designs of the previous era and introduced a vibrant, playful color palette that was both fresh and unexpected for the brand. Following the somber So Black collection that coincided with Gaultier’s departure, the Candy Collection injected new life into Hermès’ designs with its eye-catching hues.
The collection introduced several striking new colors, including Kiwi, Lime, Blue Celeste, Rose Tyrien, and Bleu Electrique (Blue Electric), alongside the more traditional Etain and Tosca. Each of these bags was made with contrasting interiors, enhancing their visual appeal and making them even more desirable. The Candy Birkins and Kellys quickly became must-have items for collectors, and the limited production further heightened their exclusivity.
The success of the 2011 collection laid the groundwork for future iterations of the Candy Collection. In Fall 2012, Hermès released a second wave of these vibrant bags, expanding the color choices to include Jaune d’Or, Rose Jaipur, Brique, and Rouge Casaque. These bags were primarily crafted in Epsom leather, with the Birkin 35 being the most common size. However, smaller versions in 30 and 25 sizes were also produced, making the Candy Birkins available in various options to suit different tastes. The Candy Kelly bags, produced in Retourne, were made available in sizes 35, 32, and 28, with some variations in the availability of specific sizes.
One of the standout features of the Candy Collection was the inclusion of the Micro Birkin and Micro Kelly bags. Designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier, these miniature versions were reimagined in the new Candy colors, and today they are among the most collectible and sought-after pieces for luxury bag enthusiasts.
The Candy Collection set a new precedent in the world of luxury handbags, transforming the Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags into seasonal collectibles with an allure that transcended simple functionality. Christophe Lemaire’s vision of limited-edition releases not only added a touch of exclusivity to Hermès’ iconic designs but also created a new standard in luxury fashion. With each new season, Hermès continues to captivate collectors by reimagining these classic bags in bold colors and unique combinations, making the Candy Collection a milestone in the history of the brand. For those lucky enough to own a piece of this collection, it’s not just a handbag—it’s a slice of Hermès history, forever captured in vibrant, collectible colors.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Bags on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin and Kelly bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin and Kelly bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin and Kelly bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin or Kelly bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin or Kelly bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin or Kelly Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin or Kelly that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin or Kelly.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique Hermès bags or rare limited edition Birkin and Kelly bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin and Kelly bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Bags at Sotheby’s
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.