Then & Now: Contemporary Fashion Imitates Old Masters

H istory has a way of repeating itself, and the same principle undoubtedly applies to fashion. Many of the styles that grace today's runway are inspired by the ornate gowns and elegant ensembles worn by sitters in Old Master portraits; the cut and fit are reimagined, of course, but the garments carry a similar, timeless majesty. See ahead how the artworks from Sotheby’s Old Masters Online sale are mirrored on the runway.

Past Auction

Old Masters Online

18–30 October 2019 | 12:00 PM EDT | New York

I n 2019, it's not difficult to find an inexpensive lace dress; a higher quality fabric, on the other hand, can be quite costly. This was also the case in the late 16th century, when lace was first developed, on account of its painstaking production process. Initially, creating lace required three distinct specialists: a designer, responsible for drawing the pattern; a pattern maker, who translated the design to parchment; and a lace maker, who stitched the lace directly from the parchment. Although it was during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I when lace started to appear in cuffs and collars, it elaborated into more complex designs in the 1600s. To own a lace gown in the 17th century reflected the sophisticated taste of the aristocrat, much like owning a designer laced outfit in the 21st century evokes timeless luxury and delicate femininity.

More than 400 years since its inception, lace has yet to go out of style – thanks in no small part to the creative genius of Alexander McQueen. The brand's Spring 2020 runway show is fit with exquisite lace dresses that would surely impress Queen Elizabeth I herself.

O ne thing Chanel is consistent in is its infatuation with pearls. From fully studded bags to absent pieces like necklaces or belts, Chanel’s use of pearls draws upon designs from many necklaces and gowns seen in Old Master portraits. Claudia de’ Medici held prestigious status as Princess of Urbino and regent of Austrian Tyrol, and the fact that she chose to be depicted in her portrait by Giusto Suttermans in a black gown heavily embroidered with pearls, plus a pearled necklace, speaks volumes to the weight the gemstones carried in the 17th century. In the multiple iterations the artist and his studio made of this portrait, she is, for the most part, styled with pearls just like Chanel’s designs. More curious is the emphasis on including this accessory against a neutral dark background, which makes the off-white jewel stand out even more.

I n the Tudor court, gowns decorated with elaborate embroidery and jewels were the height of fashion. During the period, clothing was a means to display the status of the wearer's wealth and power. Versace's recent collection mimics the gold embroidery of Tudor clothing in its silk prints, but also takes the Tudor-age's bejeweled details to a new level.

I n 2015, Saint Laurent kicked off their menswear runway with a model in a military jacket very similar to those worn during the Napoleonic Wars. The design was so popular that they opted to offer an officer’s jacket for women, as well. Although the design has seen many variants through the years, the inspiration it draws from admirals’ uniforms and their medals is undeniable. This portrait by William Beechey depicts Admiral Duckworth in full glory, as his jacket is saturated with all the medals he’s won through his valiant naval pursuits. These emblems in the admiral’s jacket inspire ways to elevate the design of contemporary jackets.

A lthough the cape-mania has also stormed through the designs of Burberry and Loro Piana, Gucci has recently done quite the revival. Developed in various fabrics and styles, the same can be said for the capes seen in Old Master portraits. Either it be delicate capes connected to elegant gowns or capes with a function worn by officers in the military, its popularity has been recorded in portraits of distant ages.

Discover more inspired fashion in Sotheby's Old Masters Online auction, running through 12:00 PM EDT on 30 October. The sale includes an intriguing array of paintings and drawings at attractive price points that span through the centuries and the majority of Europe. A selection of highlights from the auction are on view in our New York galleries through 26 October.