The Birkin 35: Effortlessly Merging Quiet Luxury and Big Bag Trends
From runway resurgence to timeless craftsmanship, learn why the Birkin 35 is the ultimate blend of quiet luxury and functional elegance.
The Original Hermès Birkin 35
The original bag made for Jane Birkin in 1984 was the Hermès Birkin 35. The iconic Birkin was initially only made in two sizes, the more popular Birkin 35 and larger Birkin 40. In 1996, a smaller Birkin 30 was introduced and then in 2004, an even smaller Birkin 25. While hard to believe today, the Birkin wasn't an instant success. Demand didn't take off until the mid-to-late 1990s at the beginning of the "It Bag" era. According to the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion by Valerie Steele the Birkin's waiting list tripled after the Sex and the City episode. In 2001, the Birkin 35 starred in a Sex in the City episode where the character Samantha Jones famously gave us “It’s not a bag. It’s a Birkin”.
Since its inception in 1984, the Birkin 35 has been considered the ‘standard’ size, and until 2015 it was more than just standard, the Birkin 35 was ‘it.’ As trends switched towards smaller bags, the Birkin 35 fell out of favor with many collectors, but its fans never lost their love of the ‘OG’ Birkin. During the past five years the Birkin 30 and Birkin 25 have been the most popular sizes with buyers as evidenced by rapidly rising prices for these sizes on marketplaces like Sotheby's. A pristine "store fresh" leather Birkin 30 or Birkin 25 sells for $25,000-$30,000 more than 2x the retail of $10,400 for a Togo Birkin 25 and $11,600 for a Togo Birkin 30.
Big Bags are Back
One major trend on the 2023 runways was the return of the over-sized bag and tote. Prior to the pandemic bags got smaller and more impractical year after year. Layering micro bags became a new trend as most bags could barely fit a phone inside. But the pendulum appears to be moving the other direction with the return of the bigger bag. From a purely practical perspective, returning to the office means totes or larger carryall have become a necessity again. This shift has also driven renewed interest in the Birkin 35. The iconic Birkin 35 is the most timeless carry all that is large enough for a laptop, tablet and all of your other daily essentials. For its size it is the perfect combination of structured and slouchy.
Quiet Luxury and the Neutral Birkin 35
Quiet Luxury as defined by Elle Magazine is new-age minimalism with a larger focus on investment pieces and thoughtful shopping habits. Everyone is talking about quiet luxury as the biggest trend of 2023. An aesthetic focused on neutral colors, logo free designs, elevated basics and designs that stand the test of time. The Birkin 35 in neutral Togo leather is the ultimate quiet luxury bag. Practical in size, logo free and timeless since 1984. Instantly recognizable to its fans and collectors but lacking any obvious Brand logos. The larger Birkin 35 merges quiet luxury and a return of the big bag.
Limited Edition Birkin 35
There are several Limited Edition Birkin bags that were only made in the Birkin 35 size. The newest Limited Edition is the Birkin 35 FrayFray was released in Summer of 2021. The Hermès Birkin Fray consists of a Twill H cotton canvas body that extends all the way to the edge and is sealed complete with a Sellier stitch. The mini-fringing on the edges of the Birkin 35 Fray Fray is the bag’s stand-out detail, accentuating the Swift leather and Palladium hardware. Another recent Birkin 35 Limited Edition released in 2020 is the Sunrise and Sunset Birkin 35 in Sellier with palladium hardware. Other Limited Edition Birkin 35 include the Birkin 35 Surf, Birkin 35 Riga Toile and the Birkin 35 Dechainee.
How much is a Birkin 35
How much is a Birkin 35 depends on many factors. A Togo leather Birkin 35 retails for $13,500 and resells for between $10,000 to $20,000 depending on the condition and color. When the Birkin was first introduced in the 1980s it retailed for $2,000. So far in 2023 we’ve seen auction prices for Birkin 35 bags, in Leather, Crocodile, Alligator and Ostrich, all ticking upward. In leather, the Birkin 35 has increased over 34% so far this year, compared with results spanning 2022. Average auction prices have so far realized an average of just over $16,400 as of this writing. This now eclipses the average price for Ostrich Birkin 35, which rose over 5% to $16,350. In Hong Kong, a Hermès Birkin 35 Fringe sold for over $74,000. Sotheby's Buy Now marketplace is also seeing Birkin 35 bags sell at much faster velocity with some basic neutral Birkin 35 bags in Togo leather selling within days of listing. Prices for Birkin 35 bags still aren't as high as the Birkin 30 or Birkin 25, but we anticipate the Birkin 35 price in the secondary market will continue to tend higher.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Birkin on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Birkin bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition Birkin bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Birkin bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
