Makers Matter

The silver market is currently quite accessible, as values have come down across the board, but especially for the more traditional silver categories like 18th- and 19th-century English and Continental silver. It’s important to consider makers in those categories: for example English silver made by important silversmiths like Paul de Lamerie, David Willaume, Paul Storr, Garrard or Benjamin Smith is more valuable than equivalent forms by lesser known makers.
At Sotheby’s, we are also are seeing strong results for unusual or characterful silver, as well as antique silver with interesting provenance. With the internet and aggregator auction sites, people are exposed to the full scope of the antique market. They are able to recognize when something stands out as unique and these pieces tend to attract more attention at auction.
We have seen an uptick in interest in other silver categories though. For example, we have seen a growing excitement for Chinese Export silver, especially characterful pieces decorated with dragons. And of course with the strength of the luxury division, silver pieces by Cartier, Hermes, Bulgari, Buccellati, and Tiffany receive a lot of attention.
Know Where to Start
One of the best places to start is attending auction previews. They are a great place to get hands on exposure to the pieces before you buy, as well as spend time with specialists who can answer your questions and give advice. When you know the style or period that you like best, learn more about the makers behind the pieces. You can then get to know what the market is for those types of pieces. And of course, start to familiarize yourself with the silver marks for those pieces too.

Even if you aren’t ready to start building a collection, one place I always recommend starting with is flatware. Silver flatware is typically very inexpensive to buy at auction, and it’s something you can use every day. It’s great for people who don’t want the fuss of polishing silver – if it’s getting regular use, the tarnish doesn’t build up and requires less maintenance. Plus sterling silver is more hygienic to eat off as it’s a naturally antibacterial metal!
Rarity and Condition Are Paramount
The earlier the silver, the rarer it will be – and that frequently corresponds to value. Certain categories are more rare as well: Colonial American silver may look very similar to English silver of the same time period, but because there were far fewer working silversmiths in the colonies, an American teapot is more valuable than its English counterpart.

It’s important to be wary of something that looks too unusual though; if it doesn’t make sense within a certain maker’s oeuvre or within a certain time period, it very likely was altered at a later point in time and is less valuable than if it was in its original state.
Condition is important to consider. Look for breaks or dents for current condition issues, but also excess solder where feet or handles are attached to see if a piece has been repaired.
The surface is also something to consider on early pieces. Many collectors really like to see original patina, so if the surface is too bright and shiny from heavy polishing or buffing, this can be a detraction for many clients. With older pieces, it’s also desirable when the details are still crisp and not too worn down from heavy polishing over the years.
A Rare Metal, Silver Holds Value
Since silver itself is a currency, silver pieces will always hold value. When silver is sold, you will see that the weight is always included, so you can compare the estimate with the melt value.
At Sotheby’s, we sell pieces where the value exceeds its melt value for various other reasons, and these are the types of things you want to consider when buying silver as a collector. You want to consider the maker: well-known makers are associated with quality craftsmanship and an established brand name adds value. If you don’t recognize the maker, you can also look at the craftsmanship behind the piece: is it a thick or thin gauge? Look at the decoration: is it finely hand chased or does it seem crudely cast?
Learn to Determine Purity and Plating
The first step is learning about silver marks. There are lots of online resources that are helpful for identifying marks. This can be very overwhelming, as each country has its own mark systems and different countries use different silver standards. England and American silver use sterling silver – a 925 standard – while many European countries use an 800 standard. Seeing an 800 mark doesn’t make it not silver, it just means it’s not as high a standard as sterling silver.
As English silver is the most prolific, familiarizing yourself with their marks system is important, since many silver-plate pieces are stamped with imitation English marks. Some indicators that a piece is silver-plate are marks that contain EPNS (for Electro-Plated Nickel Silver), quadruple-plate or silver-soldered. Another clue is if you can see copper showing along the edges or high-spots where the silver has been worn down.
Provenance Drives Value

Provenance is one of the main factors that drives value for antique silver. If pieces were commissioned by important clients or for important services or were later part of important collections, that adds value. Provenance can usually be identified through engravings, as silver pieces often bear a family coat of arms, crest, initials, or even a full dedication when the silver was bestowed as a gift.