Harry Winston built his reputation on an ability to recognize exceptional gemstones, often acquiring important diamonds long before they became celebrated pieces of jewelry. His approach was unusually direct: the stone came first, and the setting was designed to reveal its finest qualities. This philosophy shaped the New York jeweler's work throughout the 20th century and remains evident in the important Harry Winston rings that appear at auction.
Winston entered the jewelry business through his father's shop before establishing the Premier Diamond Company in 1920. He went on to acquire celebrated stones, including the Jonker Diamond and the Hope Diamond, which he donated to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958. His preference for allowing diamonds to take precedence over elaborate metalwork became a defining characteristic of the house's jewelry, particularly its rings.
The five most expensive Harry Winston rings sold at auction since 2017 showcase the range of gemstones associated with the jeweler, from an extraordinary pink diamond to Kashmir sapphires of exceptional size and quality. Their results also demonstrate how color, clarity and documented geographic origin can influence the value of important gemstones, sometimes far beyond the contribution of the setting itself.
Most Expensive Harry Winston Rings
| Rank | Harry Winston Ring | Notable Features | Price (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fancy Light Pink Diamond Ring | 33.36-carat emerald-cut Fancy Light Pink diamond, VVS1 clarity, circa 1970 | $14M |
| 2 | Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring | 32.42-carat D-color diamond, VVS1 clarity, with tapered baguette diamond shoulders | $3.7M |
| 3 | Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring | 28.37-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire, platinum Harry Winston mount | $2.6M |
| 4 | Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring | 16.65-carat Kashmir sapphire, mounted by Jacques Timey for Harry Winston | $2.5M |
| 5 | Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring | 43.24-carat D-color, VVS1 clarity, Type IIa diamond with tapered baguette accents | $2.4M |
1. Harry Winston Fancy Light Pink Diamond Ring, $14M
The Harry Winston Fancy Light Pink Diamond Ring sold for 12.6M CHF in November 2017, setting an auction record at the time for a Fancy Light Pink diamond. The ring centers on a 33.36-carat emerald-cut diamond graded Fancy Light Pink with VVS1 clarity. Mounted by Harry Winston circa 1970, the stone is distinguished by its exceptional size and unusual cut. Large natural pink diamonds are scarce, and examples of this weight with such high clarity are especially difficult to find.
The emerald cut adds another dimension to the diamond's significance. Unlike brilliant cuts, which use numerous facets to maximize sparkle, step cuts emphasize a gemstone's transparency and internal characteristics, making inclusions more apparent. Achieving VVS1 clarity in a pink diamond of this size is consequently notable. Harry Winston's restrained setting allows the stone's proportions and delicate color to remain the focus, reflecting the jeweler's longstanding preference for designs built around the qualities of an exceptional center diamond.
2. Harry Winston Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring, $3.7M
The Harry Winston Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring sold for approximately 3.4M CHF in May 2017. The ring features a 32.42-carat pear-shaped diamond graded D color and VVS1 clarity, flanked by tapered baguette diamonds. As the highest color grade on the GIA scale, D indicates a complete absence of color, while VVS1 denotes minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to detect under 10× magnification. The combination is significant in a diamond of this size, where exceptional color and clarity become increasingly difficult to find.
The pear shape presents its own challenges, requiring careful proportions to balance brilliance with an elegant, elongated silhouette. Large pear-shaped diamonds can also exhibit uneven color distribution or a pronounced bow-tie effect, making the quality of the cut an important consideration. Harry Winston's classic three-stone arrangement places the emphasis on the center diamond, with tapered baguettes providing a subtle transition into the band. The result reflects the jeweler's preference for settings that complement the natural character of an important gemstone rather than compete with it.
3. Harry Winston Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, $2.6M
The Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring with Mount by Harry Winston sold for 20.7M HKD in October 2021. The ring centers on a 28.37-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, flanked by two half-moon diamonds and mounted in platinum. The mount bears Harry Winston's maker's mark. Three independent laboratories—Gübelin, SSEF and AGL—confirmed the sapphire's Kashmir origin and absence of heat treatment, with Gübelin also noting its richly saturated, even color and exceptional transparency.
Kashmir sapphires of this size and quality are exceptionally scarce, owing to the limited historical production of the region's deposits. While Kashmir origin carries considerable significance in the gemstone market, the combination of substantial carat weight, attractive color and no evidence of heating distinguishes this example. The Gübelin and SSEF reports both emphasized the stone's exceptional characteristics, with SSEF describing its size, blue color and purity as very rare. Harry Winston's restrained mounting allows the sapphire to remain the focus, with the half-moon diamonds framing the center stone without overwhelming its proportions.
4. Harry Winston Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, $2.5M
The Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Jacques Timey for Harry Winston sold for approximately 19.8M HKD in April 2024. The ring features a 16.65-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, flanked by two triangular diamonds and mounted in 18-karat gold. An SSEF report confirmed the sapphire's Kashmir origin. Its rich, velvety blue color is characteristic of the finest stones associated with the region, where microscopic inclusions can soften the appearance of light within the gem.
The ring also carries the attribution of Jacques Timey, a jeweler whose work for Harry Winston reflects the house's emphasis on exceptional center stones. The triangular side diamonds create a sharp geometric contrast with the cushion-shaped sapphire, directing attention toward its color and proportions. At more than 16 carats, the stone's size is significant for a Kashmir sapphire, although geographic origin alone doesn't determine value. Color saturation, transparency and the quality of the cut remain essential distinctions when comparing important examples at auction.
5. Harry Winston Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring, $2.4M
The Harry Winston Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring sold for approximately 2.1M CHF in May 2021. The ring features a 43.24-carat pear-shaped diamond graded D color and VVS1 clarity, with a Type IIa classification. A Gübelin report also described the diamond as D color and Internally Flawless. The center stone is flanked by tapered baguette diamonds, while the setting bears the signature of Jacques Timey, whose work is associated with Harry Winston.
Type IIa diamonds contain no measurable nitrogen impurities and account for a small proportion of natural diamonds. Their chemical purity can contribute to exceptional optical transparency, although the classification alone doesn't determine a stone's quality. At more than 43 carats, this diamond combines substantial size with the highest color grade, making its gemological characteristics central to its appeal. The understated setting follows Harry Winston's approach to important diamonds, using carefully proportioned side stones to complement the center gem's elongated shape.
The Gemstones Behind Harry Winston's Most Important Rings
The five most expensive Harry Winston rings sold at auction since 2017 reflect the jeweler's longstanding emphasis on exceptional gemstones. The 33.36-carat Fancy Light Pink diamond demonstrates the importance of natural color in a stone of substantial size, while the two Kashmir sapphires show how geographic origin and the absence of treatment can influence auction results. The colorless diamonds offer another perspective, combining extraordinary carat weights with exceptional color and clarity grades.
These results also highlight the importance of examining each gemstone on its own merits. A laboratory report can establish characteristics such as origin, clarity and treatment history, but the quality of the individual stone remains central to its appeal. Harry Winston's preference for restrained settings is evident throughout the ranking, allowing the gemstones themselves to define each ring's character.
FAQs: Harry Winston Rings
Why are Harry Winston rings so expensive?
Harry Winston rings often feature exceptional diamonds and colored gemstones. Carat weight, color, clarity and rarity are major factors influencing their auction prices.
What makes Kashmir sapphires so valuable?
Kashmir sapphires are prized for their limited historical production and distinctive blue color. Large, untreated examples with strong saturation and transparency can command substantial premiums.
What is a Type IIa diamond?
Type IIa diamonds contain no measurable nitrogen impurities. This classification is associated with high chemical purity but doesn't necessarily indicate a flawless diamond.
Are all Harry Winston rings signed?
Not necessarily. Some rings feature gemstones set in Harry Winston mounts, while others carry signatures from associated jewelers such as Jacques Timey. Attribution should be assessed individually.
Does a Harry Winston signature increase a ring's value?
A documented Harry Winston connection can contribute to desirability, although gemstone quality, rarity and condition remain central to a ring's auction value.
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