Important Watches

Important Watches

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 11. Reference 1680 ‘Red’ Submariner | Retailed by Tiffany & Co.:  A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa 1974.

Property from the Family of the Original Owner

Rolex

Reference 1680 ‘Red’ Submariner | Retailed by Tiffany & Co.: A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa 1974

Auction Closed

December 6, 09:17 PM GMT

Estimate

40,000 - 60,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Dial: black 

Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels 

Case: stainless steel, screw down case back

Case number: 3’740’344

Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster folded link bracelet with folding clasp

Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference is approximately 180 mm

Signed: case and movement signed by maker, dial signed by maker and retailer

Box: yes

Papers: no

Accessories: Tiffany & Co. presentation box, Rolex service box, polishing cloth, service booklet, and service invoices dated 15 August 1989 and 24 June 1996

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 holds a special place in the history of not just Rolex, but dive watches in general. Introduced around 1969, the 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, marking a significant innovation for Rolex's popular dive watch line. It also marked a shift from a simple "tool" dive watch to more of a luxury watch, with the addition of the date function—a desirable, though unnecessary, complication for a dive watch. The "Red" nickname comes from the distinctive red lettering of the word "Submariner" on the dial, a unique design feature that appeared only on early production models but was recently revived on the Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600.


Tiffany & Co. is undoubtedly the most historic and prestigious luxury retailer in the United States. Established in 1838 by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John Young with a $1,000 loan from Tiffany’s father, the first store opened on Broadway before later moving to their flagship location on Fifth Avenue and being renamed Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co.’s relationship with watches dates back to their earliest days. They have reserved their horological partnerships for the world’s two most preeminent watch brands: Patek Philippe and Rolex.


In the mid-1950s, Tiffany joined a select group of retailers worldwide granted the privilege of printing their logo on the dials of Rolex’s most prestigious models. For most of their relationship, Rolex allowed Tiffany to stamp the dials at their Fifth Avenue premises, a process completed by Tiffany watchmakers rather than at the Rolex factory in Switzerland. The exact number of Tiffany-dialed Rolex watches from this era is unknown, but they are undoubtedly extremely rare and represent some of the most sought-after, desirable, and iconic watches to ever come to market.


The combination of a rare "Red" Submariner 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. double signature is an exceptionally rare occurrence. The current example comes directly from the family of the original owner and is accompanied by its original Tiffany & Co. presentation box, Rolex service box, polishing cloth, service booklet, and service invoices dated August 15, 1989, and June 24, 1996.

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