T wice a year, the Pantone Color Institute – globally recognised as the leading authority on colour – releases its Color Trend Report for New York and London respectively. The reports forecasts the fashion trends and palettes that designers are gravitating towards for the coming season and are arguably more than an expert guess; Pantone sometimes works directly with fashion designers and powerhouses to set these new trends and hues.
Recently, the Pantone Color Institute crowned the New York Spring/Summer 2023 shades, and we saw plenty of them on the runway during New York Fashion Week (9 to 14 September). From zesty lime greens, fiery reds and sunflower yellows to popping pinks and soft lilacs, the playful palette of 15 hues roused experimentation and individualism from the world’s most sought-after designers.
As Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute says of the selection: “Colours for Spring/Summer 2023 are recalibrated for the new era we are entering. Blending escapism with reality, wholesomeness, and joy, we embrace the exploration of extreme contrast in mood and colour.”
But the fun doesn’t stop at the clothing we wear. Ahead of Sotheby’s Hong Kong autumn sales, we took inspiration from Pantone’s New York Spring/Summer 2023 colours to choose our favourite lust-worthy statement jewellery pieces on offer in Magnificent Jewels I (7 October 2022) that prove to be both timeless and in vogue.
Described as “a nourishing green imbued with health giving qualities”, Pantone 16-6340 is an exuberant shade that brings to mind the vibrant energy of new life and abundance. Wear it in Lot 1937, a Cartier ‘Panthère’ tassel necklace set with chrysoprase and emerald beads, spaced by aquamarine and diamond clasps, and a pair of panthers pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, buff-top onyx and pear-shaped emerald eyes. The necklace is even detachable and can be worn as a necklace and bracelet set! Now if green around your neck isn’t quite your thing, try it on the finger with Lot 1848, a stunning rectangular curved jadeite ring, or on the wrist with Lot 1936, a limited production Cartier ‘Panthère' wristwatch featuring the iconic panther set with brilliant-cut diamonds, onyx nose and spots, and pear-shaped emerald eyes, set to a bracelet of tsavorite garnet beads – accented, of course, with more brilliant-cut diamonds.
Bask in the warmth of summer and spring with Lot 1927, a Bulgari ring set with a 15.23 carats pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond, flanked by two pear-shaped diamonds. Or if you prefer a softer edge to your jewels, Lot 1884 is the pick for its 13.32 carats cushion-shaped fancy intense yellow diamond, also flanked by two pear-shaped diamonds, signed by Graff. For even more jazz, consider Lot 1810, a stellar 51.50 carats step-cut yellow sapphire decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds. All three are perfect pairings to Pantone 14-0756, which is said to be “a luminescent yellow that radiates joyfulness”.
A girl can never have too many pinks and surely Pantone’s crowned colours can testify to that. Since picking just one favourite shade was an impossible task, we decided to choose a necklace that reflects all three tints of pinks we loved – Pantone 15-1530, Pantone 12-1708, and Pantone 12-1009 – into a statement of femininity and beauty. Featuring a European-cut clasp with baguette diamonds signed Cartier, Lot 1815 is a triple-strand necklace comprising 136 graduated conch pearls, spaced by seed pearls and diamond rondelles. Pair that with Lot 1816, a Cartier pin set with a drop-shaped conch pearl on each side, embellished with old European and rose-cut diamonds. Dating back to circa 1925, the pin is the perfect lovers of Art Deco. Aside from pearls, we also couldn’t take our eyes off Lot 1812, a 6.66 carats oval padparadscha sapphire ring decorated with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds.
This next colour simply shouts summer. Pantone 15-1335 is a tangy orange that is so tasty we can’t get enough of it. Bring on the summer-inspired joy with Lot 1832, a toi et moi design ring with a brilliant-cut 2.20 carats fancy vivid yellow diamond and 1.61 carats fancy deep yellowish orange diamond. Set to brilliant-cut shoulders and a detachable jacket of scroll design pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, it can be worn as one or as three separate rings. Now, we also want to emphasise that sometimes, it isn’t about wearing the colour in a piece of jewellery, but rather, having it become the perfect finishing touch to complementing your outfit and there’s no better way to do this for the season’s hottest shades than with Lot 1920, a Van Cleef & Arpels parure composed of a necklace set with turquoise cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a similarly set pendant; paired with a ring and a pair of pendent ear clips. The bright turquoise blue superbly brings out the tangy orange.
For lovers of eye-popping colours like Pantone 18-2143 or zesty summer brights like Pantone 13-0443, you can’t go past Lot 1881, a dazzling Bulgari wristwatch set with variously cut diamonds, highlighted by sugarloaf and calibré-cut rubies and similarly cut emeralds, sporting a square dial set with single-cut diamonds. Then there is Lot 1850, a Bulgari pendent necklace featuring a bezel-set antique coin portraying a male in profile with the reverse depicting a bird, and with “Roma-Commodus Aug. A.D. 180-196” inscribed. The coin is highlighted with pink tourmaline beads and carved emeralds, decorated with brilliant-cut diamond-set scalloped edges and neckchain. This is a necklace that guarantees will make nothing short of a bold statement.