Brief History of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in 1906 at Place Vendôme in Paris, following the 1895 marriage of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, who both came from jewelry merchant families. Sharing a passion for precious stones and innovation, Alfred Van Cleef partnered with Estelle's brother, Charles Arpels, to open the first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique. Van Cleef & Arpels has since adorned royalty and celebrities alike—from Queen Sophia of Spain and Grace Kelly to Mariah Carey and Reese Witherspoon. Now part of the Richemont group since 1999, the brand remains a leading jewelry house, renowned for its stunning use of diamonds, sapphires, carnelian, and other precious stones. Below we take a closer look at five of the most expensive Van Cleef bracelets sold at auction since 2024.
Most Expensive Van Cleef & Arpels Bracelets
| Rank | Model | Notable Features | Price (USD) |
| 1 | Attractive Gem Set & Diamond Bracelet, 1930s | Fluted emeralds, carved sapphires, and cabochon rubies in a vibrant Tutti Frutti-style design reflecting Art Deco elegance. | $382,800 |
| 2 | Sapphire & Diamond ‘Boucle’ Bracelet, 1968 | Sculptural sapphire-and-diamond design inspired by mid-century modern style and Van Cleef’s famed Duchess of Windsor pieces. | $261,800 |
| 3 | ‘Mystery-Set’ Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet | Uses the patented Mystery Set technique (1933) with seamless sapphires bordered by brilliant-cut diamonds. | $140,100 |
| 4 | Diamond Bracelet, 1950s | Circular and baguette-cut diamonds totaling over 20 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY, classic post-war glamour. | $107,300 |
| 5 | Coral, Emerald & Diamond Bracelet, mid-20th c. | Coral cabochons, emerald accents, and x-shaped diamond motifs showcasing bold Art Deco symmetry | $90,000 |
Van Cleef & Arpels Attractive Gem Set and Diamond Bracelet, 1930s, 342,900 CHF
The Van Cleef & Arpels Attractive Gem Set and Diamond Bracelet sold for 342,900 CHF in May 2024. This remarkable 1930s bracelet was designed as a series of fluted emeralds drill-set with single-cut diamonds, framed by circular- and single-cut diamonds, and adorned with carved sapphires, marquise-shaped diamonds, and cabochon rubies. The bracelet epitomizes the Maison's craftsmanship and creativity during the interwar period, combining vibrant carved gemstones with intricate diamond detailing to create a dazzling and harmonious design.
Often associated with the "Tutti Frutti" style—though the term was officially coined by Cartier in the 1970s—this bracelet reflects the vibrant and nature-inspired jewelry trends of the Roaring Twenties. Parisian jewelry houses referred to these colorful, fruit- and floral-inspired creations as "fruit salad" designs, which were heavily influenced by carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds imported from India. This Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet stands as a brilliant example of that era's fascination with bold, exotic motifs, blending Eastern influences with French elegance to produce a truly timeless masterpiece.
Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond 'Boucle' Bracelet, 240,000 EUR
The Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond 'Boucle' Bracelet sold for 240,000 EUR in October 2024. The Boucle bracelet, created in 1968, showcases Van Cleef & Arpels' sleek and sophisticated mid-20th-century style. Blending bold, sculptural forms with elegant simplicity, it highlights the brand's skill in crafting luxurious evening jewelry with top-quality diamonds and colored gemstones.
The sapphire and diamond 'boucle' bracelet draws inspiration from the timeless elegance of bold and geometric Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels creations. Notable references include the exquisite sapphire and diamond jarretière bracelet, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for Wallis Simpson, and the striking ruby and diamond bracelet crafted for the legendary film star Marlene Dietrich—both iconic representations of Van Cleef & Arpels' unparalleled craftsmanship. The 'boucle' bracelet continues the legacy of these legendary jewels, embodying Van Cleef & Arpels' signature blend of glamour and timelessness.
Van Cleef & Arpels 'Mystery-set' Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, 126,000 CHF
The Van Cleef & Arpels 'Mystery-set' sapphire and diamond bracelet sold for 126,000 CHF in November 2024. This piece was exquisitely designed as three rows of mystery-set sapphires bordered by luminous rows of circular brilliant-cut diamonds. The intricate use of the 'Mystery-Set' technique, invented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, ensures that no prongs are visible, giving the gemstones a seamless, floating appearance. This revolutionary method involves placing each faceted stone onto thin gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimeter wide, a process so delicate that producing a single piece can take up to 300 hours. The result is a breathtaking display of craftsmanship where the sapphires appear entirely free-standing.
The Mystery-Set technique is a rare and highly complex art form that has become synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels' unparalleled mastery in jewelry design. Due to the precision required and the time-consuming nature of the process, pieces created with this technique are extremely rare. This bracelet, embodying both the elegance of its design and the artistry of its creation, is a stunning example of the brand's continued dedication to craftsmanship.
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Barcelet, 1950s, 96,000 CHF
The Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Barcelet sold for 96,000 CHF in November 2024. The Van Cleef & Arpels diamond bracelet is a stunning example of the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship, featuring a series of circular-cut diamonds alternating with baguette diamonds, creating an elegant design. Measuring approximately 190mm in length, this bracelet is signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY and is numbered N.Y. 13403. The diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 20.00 - 22.00 carats, with an average G-H color and VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
This bracelet showcases Van Cleef & Arpels' renowned ability to blend beauty with technical mastery. With a width of approximately 9mm and a gross weight of approximately 46 grams, this bracelet is not only a symbol of luxury but also a timeless addition to any collection. Its intricate design and flawless craftsmanship make it a highly desirable piece for both connoisseurs and collectors alike.
Van Cleef & Arpels Coral, Emerald, and Diamond Bracelet, 90,000 USD
The Van Cleef & Arpels Coral, Emerald, and Diamond Bracelet sold for 90,000 USD in June 2024. This bracelet is an exceptional example of mid-20th century design, showcasing oval-shaped coral cabochons spaced by x-shaped motifs set with round diamonds. The bracelet is adorned with both round and cabochon emeralds, creating a harmonious blend of colors and textures.
This bracelet is a stunning example of Art Deco design, a style known for its bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and use of contrasting colors. Drawing inspiration from the Cubist movement, Art Deco jewelry often features repeating patterns, sleek forms, and combinations of diamonds and colored gemstones. The x-shaped diamond motifs and the contrast between the coral and emerald accents reflect these key characteristics, showcasing the era’s fascination with symmetry and modern craftsmanship. This bracelet captures the essence of Art Deco’s glamorous yet refined aesthetic, making it a timeless piece of design.
Frequently Asked Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels Bracelets
Why are Van Cleef & Arpels bracelets so valuable?
Each piece is meticulously handcrafted using exceptional gemstones and innovative techniques like the Mystery Set, making them both technically and artistically rare. Their heritage and enduring demand among collectors further elevate their value.
What is the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet ever sold?
The Gem Set & Diamond Bracelet from the 1930s holds that title, selling for $382,800 at auction. Its Tutti Frutti-style design and historical significance make it a standout example of the Maison’s golden era.
What defines Van Cleef & Arpels’ design style?
The brand is known for its nature-inspired motifs, fluid Art Deco geometry, and mastery of color and craftsmanship. Each bracelet reflects a balance of innovation, elegance, and timeless Parisian artistry.
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