Jewelry

Five Top Tiffany and Co Jewelry Designers

By Catherine Kim
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Brief History of Tiffany and Co

Tiffany and Co has been making iconic jewelry for nearly 200 years. During this time Tiffany has innovated in all aspects of its business. The Tiffany Setting for diamond solitaire rings was introduced in 1886. The Tiffany and co six prong setting won numerous awards at international exhibitions for virtually hiding the prongs so the diamond appeared to be almost floating above the band. This simple setting from Tiffany and Co remains one of the most popular styles for engagement rings today. In the 1940s, Tiffany introduced the now iconic signature color blue that remains synonymous with the brand. The iconic robin's egg blue was eventually trademarked as Tiffany Blue in 1998.

Tiffany and co also designed some of the iconic and collectible jewelry. Five of our favorite Tiffany and Co designers detailed below.

Tiffany Flower

Paulding Farnham is the earliest jewelry designer on our list. He is known for his flower designs that were first displayed by Tiffany and co at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle. The collection included 25 exquisite orchid jewels, hair and corsage ornaments. All of the Tiffany and co pieces were realistically modeled and decorated in a vibrant palette of matte enamels on gold. Farnham's flower designs anticipated the Art Nouveau movement. Franham also took inspiration from wealthy Tiffany and co client fascination with growing exotic orchids. Sotheby's sold a Tiffany and co brooch designed by Franham in 2013 for $173,000. The Tiffany and co brooch in gold, enamal and diamonds from 1890 also came with the original fitted brown leather and green velvet case signed Tiffany & Co., New York, Paris, London. The appeal and collectability of these flower designs from Tiffany and co remains today.

Gold, Enamel and Diamond Orchid Brooch , Tiffany and Co brooch designed by Paulding Farnham, sold for $173,000 in 2013

The railroad magnate, Jay Gould, purchased several of these orchid jewels when they were first introduced. Tiffany and co created many species of jeweled and enameled flowers, including a rosebud and lilac spray. Later, in the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle, Tiffany and co displayed an outstanding iris brooch set with newly-discovered Montana sapphires. A magnificent chrysanthemum brooch with Mississippi river pearls was made for the singer Lillian Russell in 1904. Sotheby's sold a Tiffany and Co brooch designed by Farnham in 2014 for $50,000. The Tiffany and co brooch from 1900 has a center 1.70 carat round pink tourmaline accented by 20 oval-shaped pink tourmalines weighing about 9.10 carats. The Tiffany and co brooch also has 2.4 carats of old European-cut diamonds and is fitted with a retractable pendent loop.

Tiffany & Co., designed by Paulding Farnham circa 1900

Louis Comfort Tiffany

The next Tiffany and co designer on our list is Louis Comfort. Comfort was the son of founder Charles Lewis Tiffany and began his career as an artist. Comfort is most well-known for his work in Tiffany and co stained glass. He began working on jewelry in 1902 and in 1904 launched a series of spectacular art jewels at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St Louis. The Tiffany and co pieces were created using unconventional gems and enamels and were unique in their organic sculptural nature. The opal was a favorite stone for jewelers like Tiffany and co at the time. Comfort was influenced by nature from his country estate and often depicted flowers and insets in his designs. Sotheby's sold a Comfort designed Tiffany and Co brooch in 2017 for $35,000. The Tiffany and co brooch from 1905 has a oval-shaped cabochon opal with within openwork foliate surrounds, flanked by two smaller cabochon opals, decorated with leaves applied with translucent green enamel.

Comfort Designed Tiffany and Co Opal Brooch

Sotheby's sold a Comfort designed Tiffany and Co ring in 2015 for $27,500. The Tiffany and co ring is a gold set with a cushion-cut morganite weighing approximately 18.00 carats. The openwork mounting decorated with floral clusters and scroll work motifs is from 1915.

Comfort Designed Tiffany and Co Ring

Tiffany Schlumberger

Jean Schlumberger joined Tiffany in 1956. Schlumberger created some of Tiffany’s most iconic designs including the Bird on a Rock clip, paillonné enamel bangles and bold colored rings, the Cooper bracelet and the Sixteen Stone diamond ring. Tiffany Schlumberger designs are still sold by Tiffany and Co. Sothbey's clients are also collectors of Tiffany Schlumberger bracelets and other iconic pieces.

Sotheby's sold a Tiffany Schlumberger ring for $152,400 in 2023. The Tiffany Schlumberger ring features an oval-shaped sapphire weighing 12.08 carats, framed by bee motifs set with round, marquise-shaped and single-cut diamonds.

Schlumberger Tiffany Ring Sapphire and Diamond 'Bee'

Schlumberger Tiffany bracelets in Paillonné enamel is one of his signature styles. The Schlumberger Tiffany enamel bracelets are made using a 19th-century artform that involves layering enamel over 18k yellow gold. Translucent colored enamel is fired multiple times on fine sheets of gold foil resulting in rich hues with extraordinary color depth. Schlumberger Tiffany colorful enamel bracelets were punctuated with gold and colored gemstones and remain iconic today. Sotheby's regularly sells Schlumberger Tiffany enamel bracelets at auction and marketplace. Jackie Kennedy Onassis was just one of many style icons to wear the Schlumberger Tiffany enamel bracelets.

Schlumberger Tiffany Enamel Bracelet

Elsa Peretti Tiffany

Elsa Peretti joined Tiffany in 1974 and introduced bold sculptural designs including her iconic Tiffany Bone Cuff. Miley Cyrus wore an Elsa Peretti Tiffany Bone cuff in 18K gold to accept her 2024 Grammy award. The bone cuff was part of her first Tiffany collection. It was inspired by the bones she used to see and collect from the Capucine crypt in Rome. The Tiffany bracelet remains fashionable as ever and is an enduring modern classic. Elsa Peretti is also known for her Diamonds by the Yard, Open Heart and Bean Tiffany jewelry.

Elsa Peretti Tiffany Bone Cuff

Paloma Picasso Tiffany

Paloma Picasso Tiffany collection first launched in 1980 and was instantly successful. The partnership thrives 35 years later with her pieces still available from Tiffany and Co. Paloma Picasso Tiffany collections include Olive Leaf designs, Melody bangles and Graffiti designs. Paloma Picasso Tiffany Graffiti designs remain the most distinctive of her jewelry. Picasso was inspired by the graffiti that was springing up all over New York city in the 1970s. Picasso saw graffiti as art and decided to make it precious in her jewelry designs. She used "X" and "O" shapes and "X" also represented a kiss.

Paloma Picasso Tiffany Necklace

Sotheby's sold a one of a kind Paloma Picasso Tiffany necklace in 2015 for $478,000. The Tiffany necklace was created in 1985 to celebrate Picasso's 5th anniversary with Tiffany and Co. The Paloma Picasso Tiffany neckalce incorporated her "X" motif and epitomized 1980s glamour with multicolored gemstones and diamonds. The Tiffany and co necklace is made of variously-cut tanzanites, rubellites, peridots, tourmalines and topazes, accented by x-shaped motifs set with round diamonds weighing approximately 18.30 carats.

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