18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Colored Stone and Diamond Necklace and Earclips, Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.

The necklace composed of variously-cut tanzanites, rubellites, peridots, tourmalines and topazes, accented by x-shaped motifs set with round diamonds weighing approximately 18.30 carats, internal circumference 17 inches; together with earclips of similar design set with pear-shaped tourmalines and cushion-cut kunzites, accented by round diamonds weighing approximately 2.30 carats, signed Tiffany & Co., Paloma Picasso. With signed box.

Tiffany Colored Gems by John Loring, page 205.

Tiffany in Fashion by John Loring, a photograph by Kenro Izu of Paloma Picasso wearing this set appears in this book (above).

All pieces in very good condition. The colored stones present various richly saturated shades with the central tanzanite of particular note for its vibrant shade of medium-deep slightly violetish blue. The diamonds are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The necklace, at approximately 197 dwts/306 grams bears a good heft, but the weight is distributed throughout allowing for comfortable wear. The earrings measure 2 1/4 inches and weigh approximately 31 dwts/48 grams each. The omega clip backings distribute the weight evenly over the earlobe, but some may wish to add earpads or sleeves to the the clips for more secure wear. The mounting allows for the addition of posts if desired.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Paloma Picasso might easily have chosen to eschew creative pursuits so as not to be compared to her father, painter Pablo Picasso. Instead she began designing jewelry as a teenager and found her own artistic voice in a completely different medium. Paloma’s early success making avant-garde theatrical costumes led her to study jewelry design and by the age of 21 she was creating accessories for friend Yves Saint Laurent, as well as Greek jewelry house Zolotas.

Paloma first met John Loring in Venice when she was just 16, at the home of famed art collector Peggy Guggenheim. Years later, when Loring was named Design Director for Tiffany & Co. he knew immediately that her style was perfectly suited to “take Tiffany into the 21st century.” Paloma Picasso joined Tiffany in 1980 to instant success, beginning a partnership that still thrives 35 years later.

Picasso’s bold use of colored stones and broad strokes of yellow gold combine for an unmistakable style. The one-of-a-kind necklace shown here features an impressive collection of multicolored gemstones including and tourmaline, tanzanite, peridot, aquamarine and topaz. This spectacular piece was created in 1985 to mark Picasso’s 5th anniversary with Tiffany & Co., incorporates the “X” motif that was her first design for the company, and epitomizes 80s glamour.