T he world of fine jewelry has trends that transcend the larger ebbs and flows of design winds? Diamonds, after all, are forever and jewelry is personal, so a claim that particular stones are “out” this season or ring settings “in” often comes across as empty dribble.
That said, the jewelry market does indeed have trends—seasons in which certain designers or designs are more highly covetable than others, certain stones achieve new price heights. These trends are often led by what we’re seeing out in culture. A perfect example: was Taylor Swift's debuted her old mine cut stone engagement ring in 2025, searches for similar antique-cut diamonds increased by 10,000% overnight.
We may not have an über-celebrity engagement to lead us at the moment, but luckily, the award season that concluded with last weekend’s Academy Awards offered us plenty of jewels and gems to ogle, admire, and ultimately take direction from. So, whether you’re in the market for a new special piece or looking for the perfect time to sell one, our jewelry specialists have identified some emerging trends that can help us better understand the prevailing winds in the fine jewelry market.
Bulgari Wins Best In Show
sold for 38,100 CHF in 2025.
“Bulgari prices are currently soaring at auction,” says Jemima Chamberlain-Adams, Head of Sale for Fine Jewels in our Geneva office. So, if you have some stashed in a velvet box, she says, this is the time to sell. Sculptural signed jewelry is particularly popular. Anne Hathaway’s Bulgari necklace worn to the Oscars is a perfect example: the geometric necklace featured a 8.02-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow pear-shaped diamond at the center, with dozens of triangular white diamonds making up the rest of the piece (which totaled 35 carats). Chloé Zhao, the director of Hamnet, went for a classic Bulgari Serpenti necklace, while Priyanka Chopra premiered a collar-like choker from their upcoming Eclettica collection, set with with an enormous 14 carat Madagascar sapphire and designed as a snake slithering around her neck.
Archival Jewels Find The Spotlight
Amongst the favorites of the evening, Elle Fanning’s floral Cartier necklace was a standout. Her 1903 Cartier Wisteria choker was, as recently as last year, a pair of brooches. In 2019, Rachel Weisz wore the Wisteria as a hair ornament. Cartier is proving that just because a piece is 122 years old, it can learn new tricks, continuing to be resonant, meaningful and on trend. “Cartier continues to perform strongly at auction, remaining highly sought after among collectors,” notes Chamberlain-Adams. “Their enduring appeal is underpinned by not only exceptional craftsmanship, but distinctive design.”
Elsewhere on the red carpet, Kate Hawlet, winner of Best Costume Design for Frankenstein, wore three incredible—and substantial—vintage Schlumberger brooches. A large pink sapphire, sapphire and diamond brooch by the designer achieved 1,744,000 CHF at our Geneva sale in 2022. “In my opinion,” says Chamberlain-Adams, “Schlumberger’s creations for Tiffany & Co. have increasing relevance within a more fluid, gender-neutral approach to high jewellery.” She highlights the playful ‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch design as especially emblematic of this design era—and especially collectible. One sold for 69,850 USD in a New York sale less than 6 months ago.
Available for Immediate Purchase
Collars and Colors Have Us In a Chokehold
Short-length necklaces featuring colored stones were extraordinarily popular at the Oscars. In addition to Fanning and Chopra, our specialists were blown away by Rose Byrne’s Taffin by James de Givenchy piece. The simple yellow-gold loop featured a single 22.58 yellow-brown diamond. Media coverage around the necklace was fawning. “This is a ‘desert diamond’ moment,” says Chamberlain-Adams. “Fancy Colored Diamonds are favorites right now, everyone wants them.” The market for white diamonds, she notes, is slightly softer at the moment making it the perfect time to pull out and consign alternative hues.
Chase Infiniti, the breakout star of One Battle After Another, modeled the choker-style, set with colored gems and designed by De Beers; the piece was adorned with a 9.06-carat Fancy Intense Yellow cushion-shaped diamond at its center. Late last year, a Tiffany & Co piece with a similarly close-to-the-neck design and a profusion of colored stones sold in New York for 241,300 USD.