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C artier has long been celebrated for timeless designs and exceptional craftsmanship, captivating royalty and celebrities alike over the decades. In recent years, the maison has explored reissuing Cartier watches from its archives, breathing new life into its storied history. These modern re-editions blend Cartier's legacy with innovation, offering enthusiasts a chance to own icons of the past that have been re-imagined for the contemporary collector.
By re-interpreting notable references such as the Cartier Tank Cintree, Cartier Crash, and the Cartier Cloche, the brand bridges the gap between heritage and modernity, demonstrating an acute understanding of the enduring allure of its historic timepieces. Here, we explore how Cartier’s approach to modern re-editions has not only honored its legacy, but also captivated modern-day collectors.
This Cartier Pebble Reference WGPB0003 sold for 825,500 HKD in October 2023, outperforming its high estimate of 800,000 HKD.
The 1970s was an era marked by societal changes towards more relaxed social norms. Designers in various fields responded by creating some of the most intriguing and revolutionary designs, from watches and jewelry to cars, buildings, and fashion. London was at the forefront of this evolution, and Cartier unveiled one of its most iconic designs during this period: the Cartier Pebble. Its squared dial and round yellow gold case represented a deceptively simple yet avant-garde approach that re-established Cartier's innovative flair in watch design.
Although only a handful were produced at the time, the Cartier Pebble has remained a beloved design in Cartier's vintage lineup. In 2022, the brand relaunched this legendary design as a limited edition of 150 pieces, paying tribute to its heritage and demonstrating its significance in the brand's history.
This Cartier Cloche De Cartier Reference WGCC0002 sold for 192,000 HKD in October 2024.
The iconic Cloche de Cartier first emerged in the 1920s, originally conceived as a bell-shaped jewelry piece in the form of a brooch, designed for the fashionable woman of the era.
Over the decades, Cartier has reintroduced the Cloche model multiple times, always via limited production runs. Today, the Cloche de Cartier remains a highly sought-after timepiece among Cartier collectors, prized for its distinctive case design and inherent vintage charm, even in its more contemporary interpretations.
This modern iteration of the Cloche featured a 37mm yellow gold case with a slim, elegant profile. True to the spirit of great dress watches, this example was manually wound, providing a nod to traditional watchmaking.
This Cartier Tank Asymétrique Reference WGTA0044 sold for 63,500 USD in November 2024, surpassing its high estimate of 50,000 USD.
First introduced in 1936, the Cartier Tank Asymétrique was an early triumph in daring shapes. Watches featuring this angled dial were often only seen on racing or aviation watches. In today's secondary market various re-edition models have appeared. This Cartier watch was from a limited edition of 100 pieces launched in 2020, and was numbered 58 out of 100. It arrived at auction complete with its original accessories and drew great interest from the collecting community.
This Cartier Tank Cintree '100th Anniversary' Reference WGTA0057 sold for 50,400 USD in June 2024.
Introduced in 1921, just two years after the debut of the original Cartier Tank in 1919, the sleek and elongated Cartier Tank Cintree has maintained a presence in the brand's lineup intermittently ever since. This model was released in 2021 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Cartier Tank Cintree. Limited to just 150 numbered pieces, this special edition remained faithful to the Cartier Tank Cintree's aesthetic and heritage as a typically low-volume model, preserving its iconic status among Cartier enthusiasts.
The case remained scalloped on the back to allow the watch to conform with the wrist, and had a curved crystal to match. Reserved exclusively for select Cartier VIPs, this model boasted the signature precious metal construction synonymous with the Cartier Tank Cintree line, crafted in 18k yellow gold and measuring 46 mm lug to lug by 23 mm wide.
Adorned with an eggshell dial, blued steel Breguet hands, and bold black elongated Roman numerals, this piece encapsulated the timeless elegance that Cartier watches are renowned for. Staying true to its vintage roots, the dial omitted the "Swiss Made" inscription and was powered by the calibre 9780 MC, a movement supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Numbered 132 out of 150 pieces, it was offered in overall excellent condition with its original accessories.
This Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise sold for 44,450 EUR in March 2024 during Sotheby's Fine Watches sale.
In 1922, Cartier introduced the original Tank Chinoise, drawing inspiration from its resemblance to Asian architectural elements. Specifically, the horizontal brancards mirroring the silhouette of entry gates found in many Asian temples.
As part of the Cartier Privé collection, dedicated to reissuing classic designs at the highest standards, 2022 saw the launch of limited edition Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise models to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the design. These Cartier watches paid homage to the original model while offering a fresh and intriguing update for contemporary collectors. The skeletonized version was available in yellow gold, platinum, and also included a diamond-set version. Each of the 2022 Privé Cartier watches boasts a slightly elongated rectangular case, departing from the traditional square design.
This exceptional piece was powered by the manual winding calibre 9627MC. Unlike the usual skeletonized Cartier, the bridges were not designed in the shape of Roman indices. Instead, they were used to create a geometric pattern in a Chinese style. As such, it installed a dialogue between the case and the movement, echoing each other and re-enforcing the essence of the original design.
Noteworthy is that the platinum version had its movement decorated in blue and burgundy lacquer with smooth transitions, while the yellow gold version featured a black and red decoration that was repeated on the horizontal brancards of the case. As often deployed in platinum-cased Cartier watches, this reference boasted a ruby red cabochon instead of the usual sapphire cabochon adorned on yellow and rose gold pieces. This particular piece, numbered 26 out of 100, arrived at auction in excellent condition, having sold complete with its full suite of accessories.
Cartier's strategy of reissuing designs from its archives is a masterful celebration of its legacy, appealing to both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts. By modernizing iconic models like the Cartier Pebble, Cloche de Cartier, and the Cartier Tank Asymétrique, Cartier has ensured that its historic creations are respected while simultaneously brought to the fore for a new audience. These modern re-editions of Cartier watches highlight the maison's ability to innovate without compromising heritage, cementing its reputation as a leader in luxury horology.
At Sotheby’s our experts have brought a wide range of extraordinary Cartier watches to market, making us well placed to advise clients on the sale or acquisition of a Cartier watch. Work with Sotheby's specialists and in doing so be part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.
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