The Five Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces

Brief Background Van Cleef and Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels has long been synonymous with innovation, elegance, and masterful craftsmanship in high jewelry. Founded in 1895 by Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels, the maison opened its first boutique on Paris’s Place Vendôme in 1906. It quickly earned acclaim for its poetic designs and pioneering techniques, including the patented Mystery Set—an invisible setting style that became one of the house's signatures. Over the decades, Van Cleef has become especially revered for its necklaces, which often feature transformable elements, rare gemstones, and a distinctive blend of classic and contemporary motifs. Whether crafted for royalty, celebrities, or discerning collectors, Van Cleef necklaces exemplify the highest ideals of French luxury and artistry.

As interest in vintage and signed jewels surges, Van Cleef necklaces remain among the most sought-after, especially those with exceptional provenance, rarity, or historical significance. Below, we explore five of the most breathtaking and expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces sold at auction since 2022.

Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces

Rank	Model	Price
1	Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace	$3.6 million
2	Van Cleef Emerald Necklace	$2.1 million
3	Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch	$1.3 million
4	Van Cleef Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond	$673,000
5	Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace and Pair of Earrings	$456,000

1. Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, $3,600,000

The Van Cleef Rare Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, sold for a record-breaking $3,600,000 in June 2024, stands as the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ever sold at auction. Crafted circa1929, this exquisite design features graduated diamond-set links with elongated, partially rotating tassel motifs that exude fluidity and versatility. With an internal circumference of 19¼ inches, the necklace is signed “Van Cleef Arpels,” numbered Paris 33025, and bears French assay marks. The piece exemplifies the maison’s embrace of Art Deco aesthetics, harmonizing sleek geometry with elegance, and was likely worn with the bias-cut evening gowns popular in the interwar period.

Tie-necklaces like this one were an innovative introduction by Van Cleef & Arpels during the late 1920s and early 1930s. Designed to mimic the appearance of fabric ties or scarves, they could be draped stylishly across the décolletage or wrapped like a cravat. Their architectural lines and transformable features made them an icon of Art Deco jewelry. With only a handful ever produced, these rare creations were favored by celebrities and fashion editors alike. This particular necklace is a dazzling embodiment of the maison's technical mastery and creative vision.

2. Van Cleef Emerald Necklace, $2,140,800

This Van Cleef Emerald, Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Pendent Necklace sold for just over $2 million in October 2022, making it the second most expensive Van Cleef necklace sold at auction. Two detachable pendent brooches, designed with carved emeralds and ruby heads, are accentuated by ruby beads and single-cut diamonds, all further highlighted by brilliant and rose-cut diamonds. Onyx beads lend an additional layer of contrast and texture to the white gold setting. The showstopper of the necklace is a translucent, pear-shaped carved emerald measuring approximately 38.9 x 31.0 x 14.8 mm. Displaying a medium green hue with strong saturation, this stone alone elevates the necklace to the realm of exceptional. The intricate use of color, bold gemstone carving, and convertible elements make this a quintessential example of Van Cleef’s imaginative design approach.

3. Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, $1,289,900

This Van Cleef Diamond Necklace and Brooch, the third most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $1,289,900 in May 2025. This piece is a remarkable illustration of Van Cleef & Arpels' talent for designing transformable jewelry that seamlessly combines technical ingenuity with timeless sophistication.

Highly articulated and styled in the form of a wreath, the necklace is set throughout with marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Its elegant design culminates in a detachable tassel, which features a cascade of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Measuring approximately 520mm in length, the necklace is signed VCA NY and bears numbered marks along with French assay stamps for platinum and gold. The detachable tassel can be worn separately as a brooch using a discreet fitting adorned with baguette-cut diamonds—an elegant nod to Van Cleef’s mid-century affinity for versatility and multi-functionality in jewelry. The flexibility of the necklace’s links and the sophisticated mechanics of its transformable design make it a standout among collectors. This masterwork exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring appeal and dedication to excellence in both form and function.

4. Van Cleef Necklace Mystery-Set Ruby & Diamond, $673,100

This 'Mystery-Set' Ruby and Diamond Necklace, the fourth most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $673,100 in April 2023 and features one of the maison’s most iconic innovations: the Mystery Set. Introduced and patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933, the Mystery Set technique allows gemstones to be mounted invisibly, with no visible prongs or metal separating the stones. This 1995 necklace employs the setting to showcase a series of graduated scroll motifs, meticulously inlaid with calibré-cut rubies over a pavé-set diamond ground.

The rubies exhibit a medium red color with strong saturation and only slight inclusions, while the diamonds—estimated to weigh between 60.00 and 70.00 carats—are of F-G color and VVS-VS clarity. This extraordinary piece was part of the Wolf Family Collection, a group of prized jewels sold in 2023. The technical complexity, visual impact, and rarity of this necklace underscore why Mystery Set creations are so treasured among collectors and enthusiasts of haute joaillerie.

Van Cleef Necklace and Pair of Earrings — Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Necklace and Pair of Earrings

5. Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Necklace and Pair of Earrings, $456,000

The fifth most expensive Van Cleef necklace, sold for $456,000 in June 2024, offers a striking blend of color and craftsmanship. Designed around 1950, the necklace features a line of graduated cushion-cut sapphires flanked by old European-cut diamonds. Suspended from this line are seven detachable drops, each echoing the sapphire-diamond motif. The necklace measures 14 inches in internal circumference and is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels," with the serial number N.Y. 3187.

The sapphires, which range in tone from light to medium slightly violetish blue, total approximately 300.00–330.00 carats, with the largest individual stone weighing around 22.15 carats. Mounted in platinum and accompanied by a pair of unsigned but complementary earclips, the necklace retains signs of light wear but remains in excellent overall condition. This ensemble showcases the maison's mid-century mastery and its ability to harmonize opulent gemstones with refined design.

From Art Deco masterpieces to mid-century marvels and contemporary reinterpretations, Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces continue to dazzle the jewelry world with their beauty, complexity, and cultural significance. Each of these five necklaces exemplifies different facets of the maison’s extraordinary legacy—whether through revolutionary techniques like the Mystery Set, the clever use of transformable elements, or the sheer opulence of exceptional gemstones. As collectors continue to seek out rare and iconic pieces, Van Cleef & Arpels remains a name that defines excellence in haute joaillerie—and these remarkable necklaces are a testament to its enduring allure.4oSelect 5 more words to run Humanizer.

Why is Van Cleef So Expensive?

Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and timeless designs, making it one of the most prestigious jewelry houses in the world. Established in 1906, the brand has built a legacy of innovation, introducing signature techniques like the Mystery Set, which allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs. Each piece undergoes meticulous handcrafting, often requiring hundreds of hours of labor to achieve the maison’s signature level of artistry. Van Cleef’s use of the finest diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires further contributes to its exclusivity, with many pieces featuring gemstones of unparalleled quality and rarity. The brand’s association with royalty, celebrities, and collectors—along with limited production—drives immense demand, resulting in high prices and increasing value over time. Vintage and high-jewelry creations regularly achieve record-breaking auction results, reinforcing Van Cleef & Arpels’ status as a symbol of luxury and refinement.

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