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The Ultimate Guide to Hermès Kelly Bags
Discover essential tips and insights to know before purchasing an iconic Hermès Kelly bag, from styles and sizes to materials and buying options.
Brief History of the Hermès Kelly Bag
The history of the Hermès Kelly bag is a testament to the evolution of the house’s luxury heritage, with origins dating back to 1852. Its story began with the creation of the Haut à Courroies (HAC), a design originally intended to carry saddles for equestrians, before being reimagined in the 1930s as the Sac à Dépêches by Robert Dumas. The bag rose to international fame in 1955 when actress Grace Kelly embraced it on the set of To Catch a Thief, using it to discreetly shield her pregnancy from paparazzi and cementing its reputation as a symbol of elegance. Renamed the “Kelly” in 1977 in honor of the actress-turned-Princess of Monaco, the design features a structured trapezoidal shape with triangular gussets, a cutout flap, a single top handle, and two side straps; over time, a shoulder strap was introduced to enhance everyday versatility. Meticulously handcrafted from 36 pieces of leather and requiring 18 to 24 hours of work by a single artisan using 680 hand stitches, the Kelly embodies Hermès’ uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship.
Since 2021, Sotheby’s has sold nearly $60 million in Kelly bags, underscoring its enduring appeal among collectors worldwide. Today, the Kelly continues to evolve through its two signature constructions—Sellier and Retourne—and has inspired a range of accessories, from wallets and belts to clutches and watches, solidifying its status as a timeless icon of luxury, exclusivity, and lasting legacy.
Hermès Kelly Bag Key Takeaways
| Category | Key Takeaways |
| Sales Highlight | Since 2021, Sotheby’s has sold nearly $60 million in Kelly bags, highlighting strong global demand and collector interest. |
| Heritage | Originated in the 1930s and renamed after Grace Kelly in 1977, becoming an enduring symbol of luxury and exclusivity. |
| Craftsmanship & Construction | Handcrafted from 36 leather pieces and requiring 18–24 hours of work; Sellier offers a structured silhouette while Retourne provides a softer, roomier profile. |
| Top Sizes | Mini Kelly 20, Kelly 25, and Kelly 28 lead demand for versatility, styling flexibility, and long-term collectability. |
| Material Options | Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, and exotic skins like crocodile and lizard drive visual appeal and rarity. |
| Limited Editions | Playful, innovative releases such as the Kelly Doll, Picnic Kelly, and En Désordre remain highly collectible and boost market value. |
Hermes Kelly Bag Constructions: Sellier vs. Retourne
When choosing a Kelly bag, you’ll encounter two signature constructions—Sellier and Retourne—each with distinct characteristics and appeal. The main differences lie in their stitching, silhouette, and overall structure.
The Hermès Kelly Sellier is defined by visible stitching and sharp, angular edges. Crafted using an exterior stitching technique, it results in a structured, rigid form. This polished silhouette is often paired with firmer leathers, making the Sellier an ideal choice for a formal and sophisticated look.
By contrast, the Hermès Kelly Retourne features hidden stitching and softly rounded edges. Artisans stitch the bag from the inside and then turn it outward, creating a more relaxed shape. Crafted from softer leathers, the Retourne offers laid-back elegance and slightly more interior space than the Sellier, making it a practical option for everyday use.
Both constructions showcase the timeless craftsmanship of Hermès, catering to different preferences and lifestyles while preserving the iconic essence of the Kelly.
Hermès Kelly Bag Materials
Most popular Hermès bag materials
The Hermès Kelly bag is crafted in a variety of leathers, each offering a distinct look, feel, and level of durability. Calfbox, the first leather used for Kelly bags in the Retourne style, has a smooth, refined finish that shows scratches and watermarks; over time, these marks blend into a glossy patina.
Togo leather, introduced in 1997, is the most popular option for Kelly Retourne bags thanks to its soft, scratch-resistant grain and long-lasting durability. Occasionally, it appears on Sellier bags as the Sellier Mou, combining Togo’s suppleness with a more structured shape. Clemence, another Retourne favorite, is a softer, heavier cowhide with a matte appearance; it relaxes over time, giving the bag a casual silhouette. Evercolor, introduced in 2012, also supports the slouchier look of Retourne bags with its satiny finish and uniform printed grain.
For a more structured style, Kelly Selliers typically use firmer leathers. Epsom is the most common, offering excellent shape retention, scratch resistance, and easy cleaning. Fjord provides similar durability with a soft, matte texture and waterproof qualities, making it heavier but equally luxurious.
Exotic Hermès Bag Materials
Exotic materials elevate Hermès Kelly bags to exceptional levels of luxury and exclusivity, with options including crocodile, alligator, lizard, and ostrich skins in both matte and glossy finishes. Crocodile is the most expensive, sourced from two species: Niloticus (marked “••” beside the Hermès logo) and Porosus (marked “^”). One of the most iconic examples is the Himalaya Kelly Retourne, crafted from Niloticus crocodile and dyed in a white-to-gray gradient inspired by snow-capped Himalayan peaks. Alligator, marked with a “▢,” is softer and poreless with larger, less uniform scales, making it slightly less costly than crocodile.
Lizard skin is typically reserved for smaller Kelly sizes, such as the 25, 20, and 15, and is known for its ability to absorb pigment, producing vibrant colors. Niloticus lizard is identified by a “-” symbol, while Varanus Salvator lizard features an “=”. Ostrich, the most affordable and durable exotic material Hermès uses, is recognizable by its feather follicles and naturally darkens in areas of frequent touch. Used by Hermès since the 1920s, it remains popular for its resilience and wide color range.
While Hermès releases only a curated selection of colors each year, the resale market offers greater variety. To preserve the beauty of any exotic Kelly, owners should avoid rain, prolonged sunlight, and consider maintenance at the Hermès Spa. Together, these rare materials underscore the Kelly bag’s timeless elegance and enduring artistry.
Hermès Kelly Bag Sizes
One of the defining features of the Hermès Kelly bag is its range of sizes, thoughtfully designed to suit different lifestyles, occasions, and personal preferences. From petite statement pieces to functional travel bags, there’s a Kelly for every need. The collection spans sizes from the Kelly 15 to the Kelly 50, with the Mini Kelly 20, Kelly 25, and Kelly 28 being the most sought-after. The Kelly 25 and 28 are practical for daily use, while the smaller Kelly 15 and 20 are ideal for special occasions or minimalist essentials. Larger styles, such as the Kelly 40 and Kelly 50, are highly functional options for travel. Kelly sizing is based on the length of the bag’s base—for example, a Kelly 25 measures 25 centimeters across.
Kelly 15
The Kelly 15 is the smallest size in the collection, offering an elegant option for evening events or occasions that call for minimal accessories. While compact, it retains the full craftsmanship of the Kelly, fitting just the essentials such as a lipstick, keys, and a small cardholder.
Kelly 20
Slightly larger, the Mini Kelly 20 balances style and functionality. It transitions seamlessly between casual outings and formal gatherings, providing enough capacity for a phone, wallet, and a few beauty items while maintaining a chic, easy-to-carry profile.
Kelly 25 and Kelly 28
The Kelly 25 and Kelly 28 are versatile medium sizes that blend practicality with timeless sophistication. They comfortably accommodate daily necessities like a notebook, makeup pouch, and small accessories without feeling bulky, making them a favorite among Hermès collectors.
Kelly 40
As one of the largest sizes, the Kelly 40 prioritizes function, offering ample room for clothing, a laptop, and travel documents. Ideal for business trips or weekend getaways, it serves as a luxurious carryall for those who need space without sacrificing elegance.
Variations of the Hermès Kelly Bag
Hermès offers several Kelly-inspired clutches and bags, each reimagining the classic design while maintaining signature elements like the straight-cut flap, touret, turnlock closure, and collapsible top handle.
The Kelly Cut is a sleek, rectangular clutch ideal for evening occasions. Its discontinued predecessor, the Kelly Longue, features a slightly larger trapezoidal shape and is now found only on the luxury resale market. For a compact option, the Kelly Pochette offers a miniaturized version of the classic Kelly and is highly coveted for its rarity.
For more casual styling, the Kelly Danse—designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier in 2008—features an elongated strap and relaxed silhouette, while the bucket-style So Kelly offers a laid-back alternative with a long top strap. Hands-free versatility comes from the Kelly Ado, which reimagines the design as a chic backpack by replacing the top handle with shoulder straps.
More professional in tone, the Kelly Dépêches Briefcase uses a square body, top handle, and turnlock closure for a refined, business-friendly look. The Kelly To Go, introduced in 2020, functions as a wallet-on-strap with a removable crossbody option, blending practicality with signature Kelly styling.
Together, these variations showcase the versatility of the Kelly’s iconic aesthetic, offering options suited to everything from evening events to everyday wear.
Hermès Kelly Hardware Options
The classic Hermès Kelly bag offers two primary metal hardware options: gold-plated and palladium-plated, both adding a refined touch to the bag’s sophisticated design. The gold-plated hardware is typically crafted from 18-karat gold, although some rare Hermès Kelly bags feature exquisite 24-karat gold. In addition to these standard options, Hermès has also released Kelly bags with alternative hardware materials, including permabrass, rose gold, guilloche, and PVC. For those seeking the ultimate in luxury, the Diamond Hermès Kelly bags are particularly rare and highly coveted. These exclusive bags are crafted from luxurious crocodile skin and are adorned with diamond-encrusted 18-karat white gold hardware, making them a true masterpiece of craftsmanship and opulence.
Limited Edition Hermès Kellys
Hermès has released numerous limited-edition Kelly bags over the years, each highlighting the house’s creativity and craftsmanship. These rare variations are highly sought after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts.
One of the most playful examples is the Hermès Kelly Doll, designed in 2000 by Jean-Louis Dumas. This miniature Kelly features a smiling face, arms, and legs, and appears in various leathers and exotic skins. Each piece is stamped with its originating boutique, adding to its exclusivity. Another standout is the Picnic Kelly, introduced in 2011 and crafted from Osier wicker and leather, offering a charming, summery interpretation of the classic design.
For color lovers, the Candy Kelly delivers bright exterior hues paired with contrasting interiors and either palladium or permabrass hardware. The Kelly Toile de Camp Déchaînée combines durable toile canvas with leather and equestrian details, nodding to Hermès’ early heritage while offering a bold, casual look.
More recent releases—including the Kelly In & Out, Kelly Padded, Kelly Colourmatric, and Kelly Sellier 20 En Désordre—introduce fresh structural twists and contemporary styling. These limited editions continue to captivate collectors with their rarity, inventive design, and enduring appeal.
Frequently Asked Questions about Hermès Kelly Bags
How do you buy a Hermès Kelly bag?
Purchasing a Kelly bag directly from Hermès typically requires building a strong relationship with a sales associate, as limited production makes these bags highly coveted and difficult to obtain. When new inventory arrives, select clients are contacted, but the available style may not always match their preferred size, color, or leather. Sales associates cannot place custom requests, and incoming styles are rarely known in advance, making the process unpredictable and often time-consuming. Because of this, many collectors turn to the secondary market for greater flexibility and choice. Trusted luxury marketplaces, including Sotheby’s, offer authenticated, curated selections of Kelly bags in a variety of combinations, allowing buyers to find exactly what they want without long wait times and offering a more streamlined path to ownership.
Why do Hermès Kelly bags have limited availability?
Kelly bags are handcrafted by a single artisan, require 18–24 hours of work, and are produced in small quantities. Hermès intentionally limits supply to preserve craftsmanship, exclusivity, and long-term value, contributing to sustained global demand.
Do Hermès Kelly bags hold their value over time?
Yes. Due to rarity, craftsmanship, and strong collector interest, Kelly bags tend to retain—and in many cases increase—their value on the secondary market. Factors like size, condition, color, and leather can significantly influence long-term resale performance.
Buy and Sell Hermès Kelly Bags with Sotheby’s
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of Hermès bags, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Hermès Kelly bags on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection
Explore rare and collectible Kelly bags, starting around $20,000 to rare Himalaya and Diamond Mini Kelly bags valued over $100,000. - Exclusive Global Access
Shop handbags through auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors. - Flexible Ways to Buy
Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated handbag concierge. - Exceptional Value
Every handbag is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
Discover Hermès Kelly bags across all price points, with new pieces added regularly.
Ready to Get Started?
- Browse upcoming Sotheby's handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
- Shop Sotheby's Buy Now handbags for instant access to available inventory
- Speak with a Sotheby's handbag specialist to consign or request a valuation for a Hermès Kelly bag
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
