The Cartier Santos: Exploring Diamond Models from the Sotheby's Archive
Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos: Exploring Diamond Models from the Sotheby's Archive

Discover the brilliance of the Cartier Santos, a timeless icon that showcases the Maison’s renowned diamond-setting expertise. Explore five striking examples from the Sotheby’s archive.
Discover the brilliance of the Cartier Santos, a timeless icon that showcases the Maison’s renowned diamond-setting expertise. Explore five striking examples from the Sotheby’s archive.

The Cartier Santos is one of the most iconic timepieces in watchmaking history. First created in 1904 for the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the watch was designed to provide him with a practical and stylish alternative to traditional pocket watches. With its distinctive square case, exposed screws, and refined elegance, the Santos has remained a staple of Cartier's watch collections for over a century. Over the years, the Maison has introduced various iterations of the model, incorporating high-complication movements, precious metals, and intricate diamond settings. Sotheby’s, with its global network of Cartier specialists, has had the privilege of bringing some of the most remarkable Cartier Santos models to auction. In this guide, we explore five exceptional examples from the Sotheby’s archive, each demonstrating the fusion of craftsmanship and innovation that defines the Cartier Santos.

Key Takeaways: The Cartier Santos – Diamond Models from the Sotheby’s Archive

ModelNotable FeaturePrice (USD)
Cartier Santos 100 Flying Tourbillon Ref. 323118k white gold case with 51-diamond bezel, flying tourbillon movement, 41 mm case, black alligator strap.$56,000 USD
Cartier Santos 100 MystérieusePalladium case, ~6.8 ct diamond setting, limited to 10 pieces; transparent dial with “floating” mystery hands.$40,000 USD
Cartier Santos 100 Ref. 2879Pink-gold case, pavé-diamond bezel, silvered dial with gold Roman numerals, white rubber strap.$10,000 USD
Cartier Santos Demoiselle Ref. 270218k yellow-gold ladies’ model with diamond bezel and silvered Roman dial; elegant, compact design.$9,450 USD
Cartier Santos 100 Ref. 2880Yellow-gold case with diamond bezel, signature Roman dial, sporty proportions; refined yet bold.$13,000 USD
Cartier Santos 100 Flying Tourbillon Reference 3231

Cartier Santos 100 Flying Tourbillon Reference 3231, 437,500 HKD

This Cartier Santos 100 Flying Tourbillon Reference 3231 was sold for 437,500 HKD at Sotheby's Important Watches sale in April 2019. This model showcases Cartier’s ability to integrate complex watchmaking techniques with luxurious design.

Released circa 2010, this Cartier Santos is distinguished by its flying tourbillon mechanism, first introduced by the Maison in 2008 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH, now Watches and Wonders). Unlike a traditional tourbillon, the flying tourbillon is anchored by a single bridge, creating the illusion of unencumbered rotation every 60 seconds. The visual spectacle of this movement is complemented by the watch’s 18k white gold case, adorned with 51 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Measuring 41mm, the timepiece is completed by a sophisticated black alligator strap, offering both elegance and comfort.

This Cartier Santos model attracted strong collector interest, making it one of the most expensive Santos watches ever sold by Sotheby’s.

Cartier Santos 100 Mystérieuse

Cartier Santos 100 Mystérieuse, 40,000 USD

This Cartier Santos 100 Mystérieuse sold for 40,000 USD when it was brought to auction in December 2019. Part of a limited series of just 10 pieces, this watch is a striking example of Cartier’s technical ingenuity and artistic mastery.

Encased in palladium and set with approximately 6.8 carats of diamonds, the watch’s most captivating feature is its mystery aperture. The floating hands appear to defy gravity, moving independently within a transparent dial. This illusion is made possible by sapphire crystal discs, which hold the hands in place without any visible connection to the movement. The concept of the “mystery” display originates from Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a renowned French magician and clockmaker who created the first Mystery Clock in 1913. By incorporating this innovative design into the Santos collection, Cartier continues its legacy of blending horology with enchantment.

Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2879

Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2879, 81,250 HKD

This Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2879 was sold for 81,250 HKD in May 2020. Dating from circa 2017, this automatic model combines traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics.

Housed in a pink gold case, the watch features a bezel set with pavé diamonds, adding a touch of opulence to the Santos’ bold design. The silvered dial, with its signature pink gold Roman numerals, remains true to Cartier’s distinctive design language. A white rubber strap completes the modern, sporty look, proving that Cartier can seamlessly blend elegance with versatility.

Cartier Santos Demoiselle

Cartier Santos Demoiselle Reference 2702, 9,450 USD

This Cartier Santos Demoiselle sold for 9,450 USD in Sotheby’s June 2021 Fine Watches sale. This is a refined ladies’ timepiece that embodies Cartier’s commitment to craftsmanship and luxury.

Crafted in 18k yellow gold, this elegant watch features a diamond-set square bezel and a classic Roman numeral silvered dial. Introduced in 2008, the Demoiselle collection was designed as a tribute to Cartier’s legacy of creating exquisite timepieces for women. Named after Alberto Santos-Dumont’s light aircraft, the Santos Demoiselle reflects the same spirit of innovation and sophistication that has defined the collection for over a century.

Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2880

Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2880, 11,875 CHF

This Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2880 sold for 11,875 CHF in March 2020. This timepiece stands out as a bold and confident expression of the Santos’ enduring appeal. Released in 2010, this model embraces Cartier’s signature design elements while elevating them with luxurious details.

The yellow gold case enhances the watch’s striking presence, while its sporty proportions add a modern edge. The bezel, meticulously set with diamonds, demonstrates Cartier’s expertise in high-end watch embellishment. Retaining the signature Roman numeral dial and central minute track, this model stays true to the timeless aesthetic that has made the Santos collection so beloved among collectors.

The Cartier Santos has evolved significantly since its creation in 1904, consistently embracing innovation while staying true to its roots. From the groundbreaking flying tourbillon to the enchanting mystery movement, these five exceptional models from the Sotheby’s archive showcase the diversity and sophistication of the collection. Whether adorned with diamonds, crafted from precious metals, or featuring unique horological complications, each Cartier Santos tells a story of artistry and excellence. As these timepieces continue to captivate collectors worldwide, the enduring legacy of the Santos remains a testament to Cartier’s unrivaled craftsmanship and visionary design.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Cartier Santos

What makes the Cartier Santos historically significant?

Created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Cartier Santos was the first men’s wristwatch designed for practical use, marking a shift from pocket watches to wearable timepieces. Its square case and exposed screws defined a new era in modern design.

How does the Cartier Santos Flying Tourbillon differ from other models?

The Flying Tourbillon features a movement supported by a single bridge, creating the illusion of a free-floating cage. Combined with a diamond-set case, it represents Cartier’s mastery in merging haute horlogerie with high jewelry craftsmanship.

What is the concept behind the “Mystérieuse” display?

Inspired by Cartier’s Mystery Clocks, the Mystérieuse uses sapphire crystal discs to move the hands without visible connections to the movement—an optical illusion that embodies the brand’s inventive spirit and artistic precision.

Buy and Sell Cartier Watches with Sotheby’s

Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to fine watchmaking, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Cartier timepieces on the secondary market.

Why Choose Sotheby’s?

  • Expertly Vetted Selection
    Explore rare and iconic Cartier watches, from Santos models starting around $14,000 to highly sought-after Ballon Bleu, Tortue, and limited-edition pieces exceeding $200,000.
  • Exclusive Global Access
    Shop Cartier watches through Sotheby’s auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors.
  • Flexible Ways to Buy
    Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated watch concierge to source specific Cartier models.
  • Exceptional Value
    Every Cartier watch is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value.
  • Constantly Evolving Inventory
    Discover vintage, modern, and rare Cartier watches across all price points, with new pieces added regularly to our curated selection.

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