Five Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Models from the Sotheby's Archive

Patek Philippe is synonymous with Swiss horological excellence, revered for its masterful craftsmanship, technical precision, and timeless designs. Established in 1839, the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking while maintaining an unwavering commitment to tradition. Among its most iconic creations is the Calatrava, introduced in 1932 as the ultimate dress watch. Characterized by its elegant simplicity, the Calatrava embodies the essence of refined minimalism, proving that true luxury lies in detail and artistry rather than excess.

Over the decades, the Calatrava collection has evolved, incorporating intricate handcraft techniques, limited-edition designs, and exclusive materials, while never straying from its fundamental principles of balance and sophistication. Sotheby’s has had the privilege of bringing some of the rarest and most extraordinary Patek Philippe Calatrava models to market—watches that not only exemplify Patek Philippe’s watchmaking prowess but also tell compelling stories of provenance and craftsmanship. Below, we explore five exceptional examples that have captivated collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Key Takeaways: Five Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Models from the Sotheby’s Archive

Model	Notable Feature	Price (USD)
Calatrava Ref. 5088/100P-001 (2014)	Platinum case, black champlevé enamel dial, part of the Rare Handcrafts series, retailed by Tiffany & Co., sold with enamel cufflinks.	$176,400
Calatrava Ref. 3998P (2002)	Platinum case, Egyptian hieroglyph dial commissioned by Sheikh Saud Al-Thani, one of the rarest custom Calatravas.	$155,000
Calatrava Ref. 5089 (2016)	White gold case, wood marquetry dial depicting Lake Geneva, hinged engraved caseback, 175th anniversary model.	$150,000
Calatrava Ref. 5177G-017 (2021)	White gold case, blue guilloché and cloisonné enamel dial, certified as a Rare Handcrafts creation.	$133,000
Calatrava Ref. 6007 (2019)	Stainless steel limited edition (1,000 pcs), carbon-pattern grey-blue dial, created to commemorate Patek’s new Geneva manufacture.	$81,000

Patek Philippe Calatrava, Reference 5088/100P-001, Circa 2014, 176,400 USD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5088/100P-001 was sold in December 2021 for 176,400 USD.

Originally released in 2014 as part of the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts series, this model commemorated the brand’s 175th anniversary. Crafted in platinum, its striking champlevé black enamel dial showcases the brand’s commitment to the art of enameling—a meticulous technique requiring unparalleled skill. The watch was further complemented by a set of matching white gold cufflinks, also adorned with the rare champlevé enamel technique.

Adding to its desirability, this piece was retailed by Tiffany & Co. and was sold by Sotheby’s complete with its original packaging and documentation. The Reference 5088/100P-001 is a true testament to Patek Philippe’s ability to seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, making it a collector’s dream.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3998P Circa 2002, 139,700 CHF

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3998P was sold for 139,700 CHF in November 2023.

One of the most enigmatic Calatrava models to surface in the market, this platinum Reference 3998P stands out with its Egyptian hieroglyph-adorned dial. This rare piece first appeared in the public eye in 2014, with no known precedents of a Patek Philippe model featuring hieroglyphics, making it an unparalleled discovery in the brand’s history. The inscriptions spell out "SAUD" at 6 o’clock and "AL TANI" at 12 o’clock, offering a deeply personal and bespoke touch.

The watch’s provenance traces back to Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al-Thani, a renowned Qatari prince and passionate art collector. Al-Thani, famed for owning the legendary Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, was known for commissioning unique timepieces, further elevating this watch’s significance. The Reference 3998P is a brilliant example of Patek Philippe’s artistry, coupled with a fascinating historical connection.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5089 Circa 2016, 1,168,400 HKD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5089 was sold for 1,168,400 HKD in October 2023.

Created to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary, the Reference 5089 is an extraordinary expression of artistic horology. This white gold model features a mesmerizing dial crafted using the intricate technique of wood marquetry. The dial portrays a breathtaking scenic view of Lake Geneva, inspired by a vintage postcard, brought to life through an assembly of carefully selected wood veneers.

The hinged caseback bears the engraving “175 Anniversaire 1839-2014,” marking its place in the brand’s rich history. Opening the back reveals the meticulously decorated movement, further emphasizing Patek Philippe’s dedication to both aesthetic and mechanical perfection. As part of the esteemed Rare Handcrafts series, this model is not just a timepiece—it is a celebration of the brand’s commitment to preserving and innovating age-old decorative techniques.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts Reference 5177G-017 Circa 2021, 119,700 CHF

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts Reference 5177G-017 was sold for 119,700 CHF in November 2022.

The Reference 5177G-017 exemplifies Patek Philippe’s dedication to preserving Geneva’s horological traditions. Featuring an exquisite blue guilloché and cloisonné enamel dial, this watch is a masterpiece of both craftsmanship and innovation. The intricate enamel patterns, combined with the delicate guilloché work, create a stunning interplay of texture and depth.

Accompanied by a Rare Handcrafts certificate, this 2021 model reinforces Patek Philippe’s role as a guardian of traditional techniques. By continuously supporting and reviving these age-old crafts, the brand ensures that its timepieces remain not only mechanical marvels but also unparalleled works of art.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007, Circa 2019, 630,000 HKD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007 was sold in April 2021 for 630,000 HKD.

Introduced in 2019 to mark the completion of Patek Philippe’s new state-of-the-art manufacture in Geneva, the limited-edition Reference 6007 is a striking departure from traditional Calatrava aesthetics. Encased in stainless steel, it features a bold grey-blue dial with an embossed carbon pattern—an avant-garde design inspired by modern materials and textures.

Enhanced by luminous hour markers and hands, this watch represents a rare fusion of contemporary style and classic craftsmanship. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, the Reference 6007 was met with immediate enthusiasm from collectors. Its distinctive design and historical significance make it a highly sought-after piece, symbolizing the brand’s seamless transition into the future of watchmaking.

Each of these rare Patek Philippe Calatrava models represents a unique chapter in the brand’s storied legacy. From the hieroglyph-adorned Reference 3998P to the commemorative Reference 6007, these watches are more than just precision timepieces—they are expressions of artistry, history, and personal narratives.

Sotheby’s has had the privilege of bringing some of the most remarkable Calatrava watches to auction, allowing collectors to acquire and appreciate these extraordinary creations. Whether through intricate enamel work, pioneering dial designs, or historical connections, these timepieces stand as a testament to Patek Philippe’s unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and innovation—ensuring that the Calatrava remains an icon of horology for generations to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Models

What makes the Patek Philippe Calatrava so iconic?

The Calatrava is revered for its understated elegance and technical mastery, representing the purest form of Patek Philippe design. Its minimalist aesthetic and flawless craftsmanship make it the quintessential dress watch and a cornerstone of the brand’s heritage.

How does the Calatrava reflect Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship?

Each Calatrava showcases the brand’s commitment to traditional watchmaking techniques and artistic excellence, often featuring rare enameling, guilloché, or marquetry dials. These details highlight Patek Philippe’s ability to blend fine artistry with mechanical precision.

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