Complete History of the Hermès Bolide
Discover the rich history behind the Hermès Bolide bag.
History of Hermès Bolide
In 1916, Emile-Maurice Hermès, grandson of the house’s founder Thierry Hermès, journeyed from France to North America, where he visited Henry Ford’s revolutionary automobile factory. It was there that he discovered an innovative new fastening mechanism—the zipper. Recognizing its potential, Hermès patented the zipper for use in leather goods in 1923, introducing it in the now-iconic Hermès Bolide bag, the first handbag to feature a zipper closure. Originally named le sac pour l'auto, the bag was later renamed Bolide, a nod to the 16th-century term for a comet and a tribute to the rapidly growing sports car industry. As demand for luxury travel accessories soared in the 20th century, Hermès responded with an array of elegant offerings, including driving gloves, racing scarves, bespoke luggage trunks, and leather wallets designed specifically for roadmaps. The Bolide bag, with its sleek design and practical functionality, quickly became the ultimate travel companion for stylish jet-setters.
Key Takeaways: Hermès Bolide Overview
| Model | Notable Features |
| Original Hermès Bolide (1923) | First handbag to feature a zipper closure; designed for travel with oval monogram patch and removable strap. |
| Bolide Mou vs. Rigide | Mou offers a soft, slouchy silhouette; Rigide has a structured, upright form for polished wear. |
| Bolide Mini (2011– ) | Popular miniature version without lock and keys; includes removable strap and strong resale demand. |
| Bolide 1923 Smile | Playful limited edition featuring gold “Eye of Cleopatra” hardware and lizard inlay; highly collectible. |
| Bolide On Wheels (2022) | Whimsical update with functional luggage-style wheels, retailing around $15,900 and selling above retail on secondary market. |
Hermès Bolide Variations
The dome shaped carry-all Hermès Bolide features a removable shoulder strap, a single zipper closure, an oval patch on the exterior to be monogrammed at your discretion, and a spacious interior. The Hermès Bolide comes in two different styles: Mou and Rigide. The Mou style is known for its relaxed, more casual appearance due to the use of soft leather. In contrast, the Rigide style is known for its solid feel and upright shape.
The most common leathers the Hermès Bolide is offered in are Clemence, Epsom, and Sikkim. Clemence is one of Hermés’ most popular leathers; with a matte finish, flat-grained and resistant to scratches, soft and heavy. Epsom leather, an embossed-calfskin, though less soft and more light weight when compared to Clemence, is still highly durable and easily cared for. Sikkim is a buttery soft leather with a very minimal or no grain. It is thin and lightweight which makes it perfect to achieve the Mou style effect. The Hermès Bolide also comes in exotic materials such as alligator and crocodile, and can sometimes be found with mixed materials such as leather trim and pony hair or Toile.
Hermès Bolide Sizes
The Hermès Bolide comes in two basic variations. The original Hermès Bolide comes in four sizes, Bolide 27, Bolide 31 Bolide 35 and the largest travel size Bolide 45. The newest Hermès Bolide called the Hermès Bolide1923 comes in Hermès Bolide Mini, Hermès Bolide 25 and Hermès Bolide 30. The original Bolide has an oval exterior patch that was meant to be monogrammed while the Hermès Bolide1923 does not have an oval exterior patch. The Hermès Bolide also comes with a lock and keys except the smallest Hermès Mini Bolide.
Hermès Bolide Mini
Hermès Mini Bolide was first introduced around 2011 and is the most popular size due to growing popularity of mini bags. In addition to it's small size, the Hermès Bolide mini does not come with a lock and keys but has a removable strap.
Limited Edition Hermès Bolide
Hermès regularly creates playful limited edition Bolide bags. The Hermès Bolide Smile comes in the 1923 style without the exterior oval patch. Is was created in 2020 and is enhanced by a gold 'Eye of Cleopatra' with a shiny niloticus lizard inlay where the magnify glass normally resides. It also possesses a 'Mors de Bride' chain and bar with an additional key, that pairs with the lock provided, hanging at the end of the chain. In 2021, Sotheby's sold a Black Tadelakt Leather and Shiny Niloticus Lizard 1923 Smile Bolide 30 for 22,680 USD. Limited edition Hermès Bolide styles are available for both men and women.
Newest Hermès Bolide
Hermès first released the Bolide On Wheels in 2022. It's whimsical design with luggage style wheels is nod to its history as a travel bag. The Bolide On Wheels retails for $15,900 and is selling on the secondary market for about $25,000 for a store fresh version. In 2023, Hermès introduced a new Bolide called the 1923 Bolide 25 en Desordre. It has a an exterior pocket and the oval exterior patch has been relocated to the bottom and is angled. Sotheby's sold a Bleu Saphir Epsom Bolid on Wheels Palldium Hardware for 20,320 USD in December 2023.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Hermès Bolide
When was the Hermès Bolide first introduced?
The Hermès Bolide debuted in 1923, designed by Émile-Maurice Hermès after he patented the zipper. It was the first handbag to feature this innovation, originally created for travel under the name le sac pour l’auto.
What are the different Hermès Bolide styles?
The Bolide comes in two main versions: the Mou, made from soft leather for a relaxed look, and the Rigide, structured and upright for a more formal style. Both are available in multiple leathers and sizes, from the Mini Bolide to the Bolide 45.
Why is the Hermès Bolide historically significant?
The Bolide marked a milestone in handbag design as the first to incorporate a zipper closure, blending practicality with refined craftsmanship. Its enduring appeal lies in its role as both a travel essential and a timeless icon of Hermès innovation.
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