Hermès Birkin Sellier: A More Structured Birkin Bag
Oversized luxury handbags are trending, and the Hermès Birkin is leading the charge. Here’s why everyone wants one.
The Evolution of the Hermès Birkin Sellier
Few luxury handbags hold as much prestige and allure as the Hermès Birkin. Since its inception in 1984, the Birkin bag has become a symbol of timeless elegance, superior craftsmanship, and exclusivity. Named after actress and singer Jane Birkin, this iconic handbag was originally designed to be a functional yet luxurious everyday bag. For decades, Hermès produced Birkin bags in a single construction style known as Retourne, featuring soft, rounded edges and a more relaxed silhouette.
However, in 2014, Hermès introduced the Birkin Sellier, a structured variation that mirrors the Sellier construction of the Kelly bag. Unlike the traditional Retourne Birkin, the Sellier Birkin boasts sharp, defined edges with external stitching, resulting in a more rigid, architectural appearance. This structured design has since captivated collectors and fashion aficionados, offering a fresh take on an already iconic bag.
| Feature | Overview |
| Origin | First released in 2014 as a limited-edition Birkin format. |
| Construction Style | Sellier construction with exterior stitching creates a crisp, architectural silhouette. |
| Available Sizes | Typically produced in 25, 30, and 35cm. |
| Leather Types | Commonly crafted in Epsom, Box, Madame, Monsieur, and Vache Naturelle Grainee. |
| Market Rarity | Accounts for only ~5% of Birkin bags appearing at auction. |
| Secondary Market Performance | Commands a meaningful premium over Retourne Birkins due to structure and scarcity. |
| Collector Appeal | Highly sought after for its sharper silhouette, limited production, and association with ultra-collectible editions such as Faubourg and Sunrise/Sunset Sellier Birkins. |
Key Takeaways: Hermès Birkin Sellier
History of the Hermès Birkin Sellier
For years, Hermès collectors had the option of choosing between two distinct Kelly bag styles: Retourne and Sellier. The key difference lies in their construction. Sellier Kelly bags showcase visible exterior stitching that creates a firm, boxy shape, while Retourne Kelly bags feature concealed stitching for a softer, more pliable form. Until recently, the Birkin bag was exclusively crafted using the Retourne method.
The Sellier Birkin made its debut in 2014 as a limited-edition release in 40cm Vache Hunter leather. These early versions were unlined and included unique design features that set them apart from standard Birkins. Following the positive reception, Hermès expanded the Sellier Birkin line, incorporating a fully realized interior and offering the bag in sizes 25, 30, and 35cm. Various leather options, including Box, Epsom, Madame, Monsieur, and Vache Naturelle Grainee, further enhanced the desirability of this structured Birkin.
Since 2020, Sellier Birkins have steadily gained traction in the luxury resale market, though they remain a rare find, making up only about 5% of all Birkin bags sold at auction. The exclusivity of the Sellier Birkin has driven prices significantly higher than their Retourne counterparts. In 2022, the average auction price for a Sellier Birkin neared $28,000, a striking 70% increase over the Retourne Birkin's average of $16,500. Similarly, Sellier Kelly bags have consistently commanded a 25% to 35% premium over Retourne Kelly bags, with their values appreciating by approximately 10% annually.
Birkin Sellier Faubourg
One of the most coveted variations of the Sellier Birkin is the 20cm Hermès Faubourg Sellier Birkin. First introduced in 2019, this ultra-collectible handbag was released in day and night editions, featuring intricate leatherwork that mirrors the façade of Hermès' iconic flagship boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. With a combination of multiple leathers and matte alligator flaps, these exquisite designs quickly became must-have pieces for collectors.
At auction, the Faubourg Sellier Birkins have commanded staggering prices, averaging over $160,000—more than triple their original retail price of under $50,000. The subsequent La Neige and Midnight So Black editions, released in 2021 and 2022, further heightened the desirability of this micro-sized masterpiece. The La Neige version showcases a matte Béton Alligator body with delicate snow accents, while the Midnight So Black variant features black PVD hardware reminiscent of the highly sought-after So Black collection. These exclusive iterations often trade privately for over $300,000. Collecting all four Faubourg Sellier Birkins is considered a significant achievement among Hermès aficionados, with the full set sometimes referred to as a Beijing Courtyard or a Place du Faubourg.
Hermès Birkin Selliers: Sunrise & Sunset
In 2020, Hermès further expanded its Sellier Birkin offerings with the release of the Sunrise and Sunset editions. These striking 35cm Sellier Birkins feature bold, curved stripes of color, reminiscent of the graceful arc of a Birkin bag's top edge. Finished with palladium hardware, these Sunrise and Sunset Birkins brought a fresh artistic flair to the classic structured silhouette.
At auction, the designs have consistently commanded strong prices, averaging around $34,000. More recently, a third colorway, evoking the hues of dusk, has been spotted on Hermès Bolide bags, leaving collectors eager to see if this stunning gradient will make its way onto a Sellier Birkin in the near future.
The introduction of the Sellier Birkin has added an exciting new dimension to the world of Hermès handbags. By offering a more structured alternative to the classic Retourne Birkin, Hermès has given collectors yet another exquisite option to consider. With its refined craftsmanship, rarity, and rising auction prices, the Sellier Birkin has solidified itself as a must-have piece for serious collectors and luxury enthusiasts alike.
As demand continues to grow and new variations emerge, the Sellier Birkin is poised to remain a coveted treasure in the world of high fashion. Whether one prefers the relaxed elegance of the Retourne or the crisp precision of the Sellier, there's no denying that the Birkin remains the ultimate status symbol, an enduring testament to Hermès' unparalleled artistry and innovation.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Hermès Birkin Sellier
What is the difference between a Birkin Sellier and Birkin Retourne?
The Birkin Sellier features external stitching and sharp edges, resulting in a structured, boxy shape. The Retourne Birkin uses internal stitching, creating a softer, more relaxed silhouette.
Are Birkin Sellier bags more valuable than Retourne Birkins?
Yes. Due to lower production numbers and stronger collector demand, Sellier Birkins typically command higher prices on the secondary market, often selling at a notable premium over Retourne versions.
Why are Faubourg Sellier Birkins so collectible?
Faubourg Sellier Birkins are prized for their miniature size, complex leather construction, and boutique façade design inspired by Hermès’ flagship store. Limited production and distinctive themes have driven auction prices well into six figures.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags with Sotheby’s
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of Hermès bags, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Hermès Birkin bags on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
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Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated handbag concierge. - Exceptional Value
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