5 Insider Tips to Buying Van Cleef and Arpels at Auction
Want to score a stunning Van Cleef & Arpels piece at auction? Follow these five insider tips to navigate the bidding process like a pro.
Brief History of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels, founded in 1906, has long been synonymous with exquisite design and exceptional craftsmanship. Its jewelry is highly coveted by collectors around the globe and often commands impressive prices at auction. Whether you’re a seasoned buyer or new to the world of fine jewelry, understanding the nuances of the secondary market is essential. Here are five key tips to help you make the most of your Van Cleef & Arpels purchase at auction.
1. What are the most desirable Van Cleef styles?
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its iconic styles, many of which have shaped the history of 20th-century jewelry design. Among the most prized creations are the intricate Mystery-Set pieces, introduced in the 1930s, which feature precisely cut rows of sapphires or rubies that appear seamlessly set. These pieces, produced in limited quantities, consistently generate excitement when they appear at auction. Another legendary design is the ‘Zip’ necklace, first created in the late 1930s and produced in 1950. Inspired by the zipper, this innovative design transforms from a necklace into a bracelet. Other timeless classics include the ‘Ballerina’ brooch, as well as designs like ‘Rose de Noël,’ ‘Perlée,’ ‘Ludo,’ and ‘À Cheval.’
The most iconic of all Van Cleef & Arpels collections is the Van Cleef Alhambra line, introduced in 1968. Known for its elegant quatrefoil motifs, the Alhambra collection remains a favorite among collectors. Over the years, it has expanded to include variations such as ‘Vintage Alhambra,’ ‘Lucky Alhambra,’ and ‘Magic Alhambra.’ Rare and discontinued versions featuring materials like coral, turquoise, or jade are especially sought-after in the resale market, making them exciting finds for collectors.
2. What are the advantages of buying Van Cleef from Sotheby’s?
One of the advantages of purchasing Van Cleef & Arpels from Sotheby’s is the unparalleled selection available. Sotheby’s offers an ever-changing array of important pieces from various eras, often sourced from significant estates. The jewelry department’s team of experts carefully vets each item to ensure authenticity and assess its condition, providing buyers with confidence in their purchases. In addition to the auction platform, Sotheby’s also offers the option to buy pieces outright through its Buy Now or Private Sale channels, giving buyers flexibility to acquire the pieces they desire.
3. Is now a good time to buy Van Cleef and Arpels?
Now is an excellent time to invest in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, particularly vintage pieces. Many estates from prominent collectors of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s—a time when Van Cleef & Arpels was at the height of its creative and cultural influence—are coming to auction. These rare jewels are not only collectible but also resonate with today’s renewed interest in mid-century design and craftsmanship. With many of these designs no longer in production or produced only in limited quantities, they represent a unique opportunity for collectors.
4. How important is condition?
Condition is always a critical consideration. A certain amount of wear is considered acceptable on vintage Van Cleef pieces, and minor patination can even add to a jewel’s character and appeal, but damage affecting the structural integrity or authenticity of a piece has a serious impact on value. It is not necessarily a bad idea to buy a piece that has condition issues, but the buyer should be fully aware of them and pay a price that is appropriate. Particular areas to pay attention to include the condition of enamel and materials such as mother-of-pearl and pearls, which can scratch or crack easily. Sotheby's always include a condition report for pieces we sell and encourage interested buyers to request further information and photographs if they have questions.
5. How much should you expect to pay?
Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry tends to retain a high proportion of its value, and in some cases, prices for rare or discontinued pieces may even exceed their original retail value. At auction, the final hammer price is determined by competitive bidding, and buyers should be aware of additional fees such as the Buyer’s Premium, which is added to the hammer price. Sotheby’s provides a breakdown of these fees here. For those who prefer a straightforward purchase, Sotheby’s Buy Now option offers Van Cleef & Arpels pieces for immediate acquisition.
Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry represents a perfect blend of artistry, innovation, and luxury. By focusing on the brand’s iconic designs, leveraging the expertise of Sotheby’s specialists, and carefully considering condition and pricing, you can confidently navigate the secondary market and secure a timeless piece for your collection.
Advantages to Buying Van Cleef & Arpels on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Van Cleef & Arpels pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from collectors around the world.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Van Cleef & Arpels pieces not available online.
3. Value
While Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Van Cleef treasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.
4. Discovery
One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Van Cleef & Arpels stores. Our curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.
Buy or Sell Van Cleef & Arpels At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels pieces available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for Van Cleef & Arpels jewels begin at around $5,000, with prices rising substantially for highly coveted designs, such as ruby and diamond necklaces, which can surpass $250,000.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Van Cleef & Arpels piece.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
