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Jewelry

7 Iconic Jewels, from a Strand of Pearls to Cartier's Panther

4 December 2018 | New York
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In the second annual Magnificent Jewels Icons sequence, Sotheby's presents the finest examples of jewelry box essentials – think diamond chandelier earrings and a strand of pearls – alongside some of the most recognizable designs from the world's greatest jewelry houses, including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Click ahead to discover more about why each of the following seven pieces is a timeless icon in its own right.

Past Auction
Magnificent Jewels
4 December 2018 | 10:00 AM EST | New York

7 Iconic Jewels, from a Strand of Pearls to Cartier's Panther

  • Van Cleef & Arpels, Pair of mystery-set ruby and diamond pendant-ear clips. Estimate $100,000–150,000.
    Among their many innovations, the house of Van Cleef & Arpels’s most celebrated is doubtless the “mystery setting.” Patented in 1933, the technique requires approximately 90 minutes per gemstone, each grooved so it may be slid onto a system of rails, eliminating the need for prongs that would otherwise disrupt the passage of light. These earrings, from the celebrated collection of Barbara and Frank Sinatra, showcase the pinnacle of mystery setting. The Sinatras were aficionados of mystery set jewels, also purchasing a similar bracelet and butterfly brooch, and Barbara wore this pair frequently. Blending together nearly a century of jewelry making tradition with legends of Hollywood glamour, these earrings can truly be labeled icons.
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  • Tiffany & Co., Designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, Moonstone, sapphire and diamond pendant-necklace. Estimate $25,000–35,000.
    Moonstones and sapphires were a favored combination used by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Although he was not trained as a gemologist, the high-quality stones he selected to achieve his desired effects would likely have been supplied by Tiffany’s chief gem specialist, George Frederick Kunz. Tiffany was a master in the use of color, and although he thought little of diamonds, he approved the restrained use of them as can be noted in the exquisite necklace offered here. Drawing from his studies as a painter, he has captured the essence of the soft glowing moonlight in an early evening sky as twinkling stars begin to appear.
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  • Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., Ruby, sapphire and diamond 'Plumes' necklace. Estimate $80,000–120,000.
    Jean Schlumberger began his career in the mid-1930s, catering to a well-heeled clientele that included the Princess de Faucigny, the Duchess of Kent and Daisy Fellowes. It was his collaboration with Tiffany & Co. starting in 1956, however, that sealed his reputation as one of the greatest jewelry designers of the 20th century. Nature was a constant source of inspiration for Schlumberger, as evinced by the use of sharply tapering feathers, each articulated to form along the neck and collarbone, in this “Plumes” necklace. Bold color contrasts, as seen here between the deep red rubies and steely blue sapphires, are another trademark of this designer who diverged from the ordinary in order to appeal to extraordinary women.
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  • Graff, Pair of diamond ear clips. Estimate $75,000–100,000.
    Throughout history there have been many variations of the girandole, however the style that became most popular in Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries was used not only for earrings, but also for brooches. The girandole came to be more narrowly defined as a bow-shaped top or circular gemstone suspending three “pendeloques” or pear-shaped drops. This stunning pair of diamond earrings designed by Graff exemplifies the elements of the girandole, also referred to as the “chandelier” style of earring. The tops are formed with a scintillating array of pear-shaped and round diamonds with three pear-shaped diamonds suspended freely at the bottom.
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  • An exceptional sapphire and diamond ring. Estimate $1,300,000–1,800,000.
    The root of Kashmir sapphires’ legendary status is the luxuriant, “velvet” nature of their blue color. This nearly ineffable quality results from a delicate, intricate interplay of its chemistry. The present stone should be noted with distinction for its combination of sought-after attributes. Precious at any size, the 16.46 carat weight of this sapphire places it in truly rarefied company. Unlike most large sapphires from any source, this cushion cut gem displays a remarkably high degree of clarity. Perhaps its most desirable trait, the finely-cut proportions and inherent quality of the stone create an “open” yet intense color which is neither too deep nor too light. Even amongst Kashmir sapphires, only a small selection achieve what the SSEF Laboratory noted as a “Royal Blue” hue.
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  • Cultured pearl and diamond necklace. Estimate $100,000–150,000.
    A strand of pearls is a wardrobe essential. With the advent of the cultured pearl, made available by Mikimoto to a general jewelry-buying audience in the 1920s, pearls became the most important piece in a woman’s jewelry box, second only to her wedding ring. This lot, a highly important strand of South Sea pearls, is exceptional in every respect: impressive size, a pure white body color, smooth skins and superlative luster.
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  • Cartier, France, Star sapphire, sapphire, emerald, and diamond ‘Panthère’ clip-brooch. Estimate $125,000–175,000.
    Embodying the perfect balance between strength and elegance, power and refinement, panther jewels by Cartier have occupied an exalted position among jewelry’s most enduring designs. What began as a playful motif by Jeanne Toussaint in 1914 evolved into fully three-dimensional felines that moved with the same sensuality and litheness of their real-world counterparts. This lot brings to mind the Duchess of Windsor’s legendary example where the panther, teeth bared, is ready to leap from her star sapphire perch. Here, however, we have a younger and sweeter cat, her paw dangling over a diamond-set ledge with her tail curling around the sapphire. This jewel, along with the other panther jewels offered in this sale (lots 272 , 274 and 278 ) illustrate the endless interpretations allowed by this iconic theme.
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