Lot 139
  • 139


80,000 - 120,000 USD
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Of winged design, set with numerous round diamonds and square-cut diamonds, highlighted by pear-shaped rubies and round sapphires, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger. With signed box.


Featured in the 1999-2000 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book, page 59.


In excellent condition, the mounting expertly constructed with the feather motifs hinged, lending a touch of realism to the fantastical design. Mounted in platinum and gold. The gemstones stated to weigh as follows: round diamonds 19.50 carats; square-cut diamonds 3.25 carats; pear-shaped rubies 37.47 carats; round and calibré-cut sapphires 15.93 carats. The rubies and sapphires are well-matched for color. The rubies are a richly saturated slightly purplish red and lightly included.The round sapphires are medium-deep blue and the calibré-cut sapphires are medium blue; eye-clean to lightly included. The diamonds approximately E-F color, VVS-VS clarity. Fitted with a safety closure. This necklace is based on a piece made in 1960 by Jean Schlumberger for Fiona von Thyssen-Bornemisza; she wore the necklace when she sat for photographer Henry Clarke for Vogue, March 15, 1962. Featured in the 1999-2000 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book, page 59. At the time of purchase, the client was advised that this is the only copy made of the original 1960 design. Accompanied by a Tiffany & Co. Retail Replacement Valuation dated October 26, 2009.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Jean Schlumberger began his career in the mid-1930s, catering to a well-heeled clientele that included the Princess de Faucigny, the Duchess of Kent and Daisy Fellowes. It was his collaboration with Tiffany & Co. starting in 1956, however, that sealed his reputation as one of the greatest jewelry designers of the 20th century. Schlumberger’s fantastical brand of creativity flourished in the non-conformist spirit of the 1960s and ‘70s, his designs embraced by women wanting something slightly unorthodox while remaining well within the realm of good taste. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Mrs. Paul “Bunny” Mellon were among his many notable devotees, as well as the great New Zealand-born beauty, Baroness Fiona von Thyssen-Bornemisza, for whom he designed the spectacular “Plumes” necklace in 1960.  The piece was recreated for Tiffany’s 1999-2000 Blue Book, from which it was directly acquired.  Nature was a constant source of inspiration for Schlumberger as evinced by the use of sharply tapering feathers, each articulated to form along the neck and collarbone. Bold color contrasts, as seen here between the deep red rubies and steely blue sapphires, is another trademark of this designer who diverged from the ordinary in order to appeal to extraordinary women.  The “Plumes” necklace is but of many pieces by Jean Schlumberger we have the honor of featuring this December from an Important Private American Collection.