RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PLUMES' NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.

Estimate

80,000 - 120,000 USD

Sold

bidding is closed

Description

Of winged design, set with numerous round diamonds and square-cut diamonds, highlighted by pear-shaped rubies and round sapphires, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger. With signed box.

Literature

Featured in the 1999-2000 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book, page 59.

Catalogue Note

Jean Schlumberger began his career in the mid-1930s, catering to a well-heeled clientele that included the Princess de Faucigny, the Duchess of Kent and Daisy Fellowes. It was his collaboration with Tiffany & Co. starting in 1956, however, that sealed his reputation as one of the greatest jewelry designers of the 20^th century. Schlumberger’s fantastical brand of creativity flourished in the non-conformist spirit of the 1960s and ‘70s, his designs embraced by women wanting something slightly unorthodox while remaining well within the realm of good taste. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Mrs. Paul “Bunny” Mellon were among his many notable devotees, as well as the great New Zealand-born beauty, Baroness Fiona von Thyssen-Bornemisza, for whom he designed the spectacular “Plumes” necklace in 1960. The piece was recreated for Tiffany’s 1999-2000 Blue Book, from which it was directly acquired. Nature was a constant source of inspiration for Schlumberger as evinced by the use of sharply tapering feathers, each articulated to form along the neck and collarbone. Bold color contrasts, as seen here between the deep red rubies and steely blue sapphires, is another trademark of this designer who diverged from the ordinary in order to appeal to extraordinary women. The “Plumes” necklace is but of many pieces by Jean Schlumberger we have the honor of featuring this December from an Important Private American Collection.