STAR SAPPHIRE, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, AND DIAMOND ‘PANTHÈRE’ CLIP-BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE

Designed as a panther, centered on a cabochon star sapphire weighing 8.03 carats, its spots set with calibré-cut buff-top sapphires, the eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, the nose with an onyx cabochon, set throughout with round diamonds, sitting atop a line of baguette diamonds, signed Cartier, numbered 13747C, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 2005. With signed box.

In excellent condition. Exquisitely constructed with the pavé-set diamonds and sapphires continuing to the reverse, covering a portion of the head, tail and paws. The star sapphire is of blue hue, medium tone and moderately strong saturation with some subtle color-zoning visible; semi-translucent with a moderately strong star under direct light; central feather from base is subtly visible, small cavity to reverse. The buff-top sapphires are medium-deep violetish blue, well-matched for color and of fine clarity; the emeralds are deep green and also of high clarity. The diamonds are approximately D-F color, VVS clarity. Gem weights per the Cartier valuation: 9 diamond baguettes = 1.35 carats; 642 round diamonds = 4.89 carats; 49 buff-top sapphires = 3.46 carats; 2 emeralds = .40 carat. Length approximately 2 1/16 inches. According to the consignor, the brooch was featured in a Cartier ad in a magazine and, being quite taken with it, she contacted Cartier. The sales representative was unable to determine the location of the piece, and it was only after many months of searching that the charming young panther, believed by its owner to be one-of-a-kind, was finally found. Accompanied by a Cartier Certificate of Authenticity and a Cartier Valuation Report dated June 14, 2011. Accompanied by a photocopy of Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie report no. 187934 dated February 16, 2009 stating that the star sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Cartier. Accompanied by a photocopy of Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie report no. 187934 dated February 16, 2009 stating that the star sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.

Embodying the perfect balance between strength and elegance, power and refinement, panther jewels by Cartier have occupied an exalted position among jewelry’s most enduring designs since the early 20^th century.  What began as a playful motif by Jeanne Toussaint in 1914 evolved into fully three-dimensional felines that moved with the same sensuality and litheness of their real world counterparts.  As striking manifestations of Cartier’s superlative artistry and workmanship, these jeweled cats have graced the likes of the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton and Princess Nina Aga Khan as well as other women of great style and means, many of whom commissioned panther creations as extensions of their own feminine might.

Lot 145 brings to mind the Duchess of Windsor’s legendary example where the panther, teeth bared, is ready to leap from her star sapphire perch. Here, however, we have a younger and sweeter cat, her paw dangling over a diamond-set ledge with her tail curling around the sapphire, clearly not worried about her next meal. This jewel, along with the other panther jewels offered in this sale (lots 272, 274 and 278) illustrate the endless interpretations allowed by this iconic theme. While Cartier’s vision has developed over time, its Great Cat jewels have maintained the allure that defined their initial inception.  As an indispensable category in any comprehensive jewelry collection, these bold and clever panthers exemplify how the classics are always contemporary, and that true glamour is eternal.