Lot 138
  • 138


100,000 - 150,000 USD
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The surmounts designed as stylized wings pavé-set with round diamonds, suspending detachable drop-shaped pendants mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, capped by round diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y.46933, with maker's mark.


In good condition. Mounting tests as platinum.The diamonds, weighing approximately 8.25 carats, are approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. The calibré-cut rubies, weighing approximately 12.50 carats, are a well matched purplish red hue, with medium tone and strong saturation, with slight inclusions, minor abrasions overall and two fractured stones at the base of one drop. There are minute touches of adhesive to the triangular-cut rubies. Ruby pendants are detachable. Length approximately 2¼ inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

For over one hundred years, the house of Van Cleef & Arpels has been at the forefront of high design. Among their many innovations, their most celebrated is doubtless the “mystery setting.” Patented in 1933, the technique has given rise to some of the twentieth century’s most spectacular jewels, such as the Duchess of Windsor’s holly leaves brooch (1936) and Princess Faiza of Egypt’s remarkably naturalistic peony clip.  The painstaking process requires approximately 90 minutes per gemstone, each grooved so it may be slid onto a system of rails, eliminating the need for prongs that would otherwise disrupt the passage of light.  After hundreds, even thousands, of hours of labor, a jewel of extraordinary fluidity is created.  With only a handful of pieces created each year, Van Cleef’s mystery settings are the ultimate in haute joaillerie and a requirement for anyone wishing to have the complete canon of jewelry design. The present earrings, from the celebrated collection of Barbara and Frank Sinatra, showcase the pinnacle of mystery setting. The Sinatras were aficionados of mystery set jewels, also purchasing a similar bracelet and butterfly brooch, and Barbara wore this pair frequently. Blending together nearly a century of jewelry making tradition with legends of Hollywood glamour, these earrings can truly be labeled icons.