The Weekly Edit: Fine Jewels

Online Auction: 15–22 October 2020 • 3:00 PM CEST • Paris
The Weekly Edit: Fine Jewels | Paris 15–22 October 2020 • 3:00 PM CEST • Paris

O ur October Weekly Edit Fine Jewels celebrates The Cartier Object with a conference held on October 7th, and with the sale of vanity cases, cigarettes cases and a desk clock signed by the iconic jeweller.

The sale features a fine selection of pieces signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Suzanne Belperron, Bulgari, Boucheron, Cartier and Mauboussin. In addition, we will offer important coloured stones such as a Kashmir sapphire, Burmese rubies, colourless and Fancy colour diamonds.


Featured Highlights

Natural pearl, cultured pearl and diamond necklace
Throughout antiquity, the pearl was considered to be the queen of all stones. The famous portrait of the Fayoum in the Louvre known as "L’Européenne", illustrates the important status that was given to pearls at that time. Not all pearls come from oysters, some are produced by other shells such as the Strombus Gigas or “Queen Conch”. This tropical shell produces beautiful pearls, which are often pink with a porcelain-like finish, that are very popular.
The Cartier "Object"

The history of the Maison Cartier is obviously linked to the creation of jewellery and watches. Nevertheless, it can also be discovered through more functional objects.

Louis Cartier, in particular, used his imagination to create these useful and decorative - yet elegant and precious - objects.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the creation of these objects was a response to the demand of a diversified clientele, adapting their ways of life to a more bourgeois and industrial society. However, what made these Cartier objects different from your ‘everyday’ objects, was the fact that the codes of High jewellery were applied to these luxury objects: use of precious materials, high quality finishing, and constantly renewed creativity.

The Cartier Object

Cartier | Jadeite, ruby and diamond-set cigarette case
In the 1920s, the vogue for the Far East that had appeared in fashion during the previous decade, was taken up and developed by Cartier. The Chinese consider jade to be the vehicle through which the soul expresses itself. This delicate stone is used in jewellery, in watchmaking, as well as in everyday objects such as cigarette cases or necessities. Jade in all its shades of greens was frequently combined with diamonds, rubies and often coral for creations that were largely inspired by Asia.
Coloured Diamonds

The distinctive hue of coloured diamonds is caused by impurities or structural defects within the chemical composition of the stones. In the case of blue diamonds, the colour is due to boron trapped in the crystal's structure, and few to no nitrogen impurities for Type IIb diamond classification. In the case of yellow diamonds, nitrogen impurities give them their yellow tint.

As the colour saturation increases in a diamond, so does its value. The colour grading scale is the same for all fancy colour diamonds: Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense, and Fancy Vivid.

Buccellati
buccellati | demi-parure or | gold demi-parure
Estimate: 4,000 – 6,000 EUR
Buccellati | Gold Demi-parure
The jewellery house of Buccellati , which celebrated its 100th anniversary last year, is well known for its great mastery of delicate texture engraving. Following in the footsteps of Benvenuto Cellini, the Buccellati dynasty has seemingly unlocked all the secrets of working in metal. Over decades, they have developed many different types of engraving, such as Rigato, Telato, Segrinato, and Ornato. The jewellers of Buccellati often use a mixture of several techniques on a single piece, creating works that are unique and clearly identifiable.
The Jewel that Started my Collection: Whitney Bromberg Hawkings
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Van Cleef & Arpels
van cleef & arpels | collier corail, jade jadéite et diamants | coral, jadeite and diamond necklace
Estimate: 28,000 – 36,000 EUR
Van Cleef & Arpels | A Coral, jadeite and diamond necklace
During the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels created jewellery using very colourful stones, which were widely popular. At the time a very original harmony of colours was used in pieces with a successful mixing of both hardstones and precious stones. There are often clear Oriental influences; jade and coral are thus ribbed and carved, and combined with gold and diamonds.

The Brief History of Maison Ostertag

Ostertag was founded in the 1920’s by Swiss-born Arnold Ostertag, who opened his jewelry house in Place Vendôme in 1922, as well as in Cannes, Le Touquet and New York. At the time his creations equaled those of the great houses of Place Vendôme, and his jewelry was highly sought after by both a French and American clientele. Strongly inspired by India, he often used engraved or ribbed colored gemstones in his pieces. Ostertag was well versed in the codes of the decorative arts, which he also applied in the creation of various exquisite objects: clocks, bags, powder compacts, cigarette cases. Ostertag participated in the 1929 Musée Galliera exhibition “Les Arts de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie » in Paris, where our diamond brooch was exhibited.

In 1939 he moved to the United States, where he died in 1940. His Maison formally closed the following year, when Paris was occupied during World War Two. Despite the brief existence, Arnold Ostertag and his Maison contributed significantly to French Jewelry, making Ostertag's jewels renowned and highly collectible to this day.

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