The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

Discover the rarest and most iconic Rolex Day Date designs from the Sotheby’s archive. Explore five standout references that showcase the timeless appeal of this legendary timepiece.
Discover the rarest and most iconic Rolex Day Date designs from the Sotheby’s archive. Explore five standout references that showcase the timeless appeal of this legendary timepiece.

Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day Date, often referred to as the "Rolex Presidential," has remained a cornerstone of the Rolex catalog. It was the first wristwatch to display both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full, setting a new standard for luxury timepieces. Over the decades, Rolex has released a variety of rare and highly sought-after iterations of the Day Date, featuring exclusive dial designs, opulent materials, and unique regional insignias. These exceptional pieces have not only captured the attention of collectors but have also cemented the Day Date’s reputation as a symbol of prestige and refinement. In this article, we explore five remarkable Rolex Day Date references from the Sotheby’s archive, each showcasing distinctive characteristics that make them truly exceptional.

Key Takeaways: The Rolex Day-Date – Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby’s Archive

ModelNotable FeaturesPrice (USD)
Rolex Day-Date Stella Ref. 18078Blue lacquered Stella dial with diamond hour markers in 18k yellow gold; vivid color and excellent preservation.$43,000 USD
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803Green Stella “pie-pan” dial with Spanish day and date display; classic 36 mm yellow-gold case.$52,000 USD
Rolex Day-Date Royal Khanjar Ref. 18038Champagne dial with Royal Khanjar insignia, 18k gold case and President bracelet; Caliber 3055 movement.$28,000 USD
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 228206Platinum case and bracelet with rare Eastern-Arabic numeral dial; accompanied by full set.$235,000 USD
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18388Diamond-set lace dial, semi-skeletonized gilt finish, 18k yellow-gold case, Caliber 3155 automatic$64,000 USD
Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078

Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078, Circa 1979, 336,000 HKD

This Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078 was sold for 336,000 HKD in October 2024 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches I auction.

Produced in 1979, this model is one of the most vibrant and eye-catching versions of the Rolex Day-Date family. The striking blue lacquered Stella dial, adorned with diamond-set hour markers, contrasts beautifully with its 18k yellow gold case, creating an exquisite balance of elegance and boldness. Rolex introduced Stella dials in the 1970s and continued their production into the early 1990s. These brightly colored dials, originally overlooked by many collectors, have since become highly coveted treasures. This particular example, preserved in outstanding condition, drew significant interest at auction, resulting in a remarkable final sale price.

Rolex Day Date Reference 1803

Rolex Day Date Reference 1803, Circa 1975, 406,400 HKD

This Rolex Day Date Reference 1803 was sold for 406,400 HKD in April 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches I sale.

Manufactured in 1975, this Rolex showcases a bold green Stella dial featuring a stepped outer minute track, often referred to as a "pie-pan" dial due to its sloped design. The deep green hue of the dial, paired with the luxurious 18k yellow gold case, creates a visually stunning contrast. What sets this piece apart is its Spanish-language day and date display, adding an extra layer of uniqueness for collectors who appreciate regional variations.

At 36 mm, the case offers a balanced presence on the wrist, complemented by a black leather strap that lends a classic and understated touch. The Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803 remains one of the most collectible variations of the Day Date, valued for its rich history, bold aesthetic, and the increasing rarity of vibrant Stella dials.

Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038

Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038, Circa 1983, 22,860 GBP

This Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038 was sold for 22,860 GBP in September 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Fine Watches sale in London.

Produced in 1983, this Rolex Day Date is a striking example of the brand’s long-standing association with royalty. The watch features a champagne dial adorned with the Royal Khanjar insignia, symbolizing its connection to the Sultanate of Oman. Rolex watches bearing this emblem were typically commissioned as gifts or special editions, making them particularly sought after by collectors for their exclusivity and historical significance.

The watch is powered by the Caliber 3055 automatic movement and housed in a classic 36 mm 18k yellow gold case, complete with a matching President bracelet. Accessories accompanying this piece, including spare bracelet links, service correspondence, and a leather pouch, further enhanced its appeal at auction.

Rolex Day Date Reference 228206

Rolex Day Date Reference 228206, Circa 2018, 214,200 CHF

This Rolex Day Date Reference 228206 was sold for 214,200 CHF in May 2022 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I sale in Geneva.

This Rolex Day Date stands out for its platinum construction and rare Eastern-Arabic numeral dial. The use of Eastern-Arabic numerals has long been favored among collectors in the Middle East, making these variations particularly desirable. The cool-toned platinum case and bracelet provide a striking contrast to the elegant, culturally significant dial.

This particular model was accompanied by a full set, including the original box, papers, and various accessories, adding to its value and collectability. Combining timeless Rolex craftsmanship with a distinct and rare dial design, this platinum Day Date remains a prized piece among connoisseurs of fine timepieces.

Rolex Day Date Reference 18388

Rolex Day Date Reference 18388, Circa 1988, 57,150 CHF

The Rolex Day Date Reference 18388 was sold for 57,150 CHF in May 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I sale in Geneva.

Dating back to 1988, this Rolex Day Date is an extravagant take on the classic design, featuring an opulent semi-skeletonized gilt diamond-set lace dial. The meticulous detailing showcases Rolex’s expertise in blending high watchmaking with fine jewelry craftsmanship. The 36 mm 18k yellow gold case is further enhanced with diamond embellishments, while the iconic yellow gold Jubilee bracelet elevates the overall aesthetic.

Powered by the Caliber 3155 automatic movement, the watch also features a screw-down case back to ensure durability. A Rolex service warranty card from 2018 accompanied this piece, highlighting its well-maintained condition. This dazzling interpretation of the Rolex Day Date exemplifies the brand’s ability to push the boundaries of luxury and create timepieces that are both horological marvels and wearable works of art.

The Rolex Day Date continues to reign as a symbol of prestige, exclusivity, and technical excellence. From the vivid hues of Stella dials to royal insignias and rare Eastern-Arabic numerals, these five extraordinary references from the Sotheby’s archive highlight the breadth of designs that have cemented the Day Date’s status as a collector’s dream. Whether crafted in platinum or yellow gold, adorned with diamonds or featuring bold dial variations, each of these models tells a unique story of cultural influence, masterful craftsmanship, and enduring appeal. As Rolex continues to innovate while maintaining its legacy, the Rolex Day Date remains an essential icon in horological history.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Rolex Day-Date

What makes the Rolex Day-Date “Presidential” so iconic?

Nicknamed the “Presidential”, the Day-Date gained fame for being worn by world leaders, celebrities, and industry icons. Its distinctive combination of the day-of-week display, refined bracelet design, and luxurious materials has made it a universal emblem of success and authority.

What are Stella dials on Rolex Day-Dates?

Introduced in the 1970s, Stella dials feature vivid lacquer finishes in colors such as turquoise, green, red, and yellow. Once considered unconventional, these brightly hued dials have since become among the most sought-after features in vintage Rolex collecting.

Why do some Day-Date watches feature regional or symbolic emblems?

Rolex has historically produced special-order Day-Dates for royal families and dignitaries worldwide. Examples include pieces bearing the Royal Khanjar of Oman or Arabic script numerals—symbols of cultural prestige and exclusivity that elevate the model’s historic appeal.

Buy and Sell Rolex Watches with Sotheby’s

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or exploring your first luxury watch, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Rolex timepieces on the secondary market.

Why Choose Sotheby’s?

  • Expertly Vetted Selection
    Explore rare and iconic Rolex watches, from Datejust models starting around $10,000 to highly sought-after professional and limited-edition pieces commanding significantly higher prices.
  • Exclusive Global Access
    Shop Rolex watches through Sotheby’s auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors.
  • Flexible Ways to Buy
    Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, London, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated watch concierge to source specific Rolex models.
  • Exceptional Value
    Every Rolex is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value, whether it’s a vintage Submariner or a modern Daytona Rainbow.
  • Constantly Evolving Inventory
    Discover vintage and modern Rolex watches across all price points, with new pieces added regularly to both auctions and Buy Now offerings.

Ready to Get Started?

  • Browse Sotheby’s upcoming watch auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
  • Shop Sotheby’s Buy Now Rolex watches for instant access to available inventory
  • Speak with a Sotheby’s watch specialist to consign or request a valuation for a Rolex watch

Trust our worldwide network of leading watch specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.

Shop Rolex Day-Date Watches

Watches Buy Now

About the Author

More from Sotheby's

Stay informed with Sotheby’s top stories, videos, events & news.

Receive the best from Sotheby’s delivered to your inbox.

By subscribing you are agreeing to Sotheby’s Privacy Policy. You can unsubscribe from Sotheby’s emails at any time by clicking the “Manage your Subscriptions” link in any of your emails.

arrow Created with Sketch. Back To Top