The Complete Guide to the Rolex Datejust
Learn more about Rolex's most popular watch, the elegant and innovative Rolex Datejust.
T he Rolex Datejust, often hailed as an icon of luxury and precision, has a storied legacy that combines timeless elegance with cutting-edge innovation. Known for its distinctive design and unparalleled craftsmanship, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust remains one of the most sought-after timepieces in the world.
Key Takeaways: Rolex Datejust Overview
| Feature | Takeaway |
| Design & Origins | Introduced in 1945 as the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch with an automatically changing date, establishing a new standard in modern watchmaking. |
| Variations & Materials | Offered in steel, Rolesor, and solid gold, with options for fluted or smooth bezels, Oyster or Jubilee bracelets, and diamond-set dials and bezels. |
| Key References | Important models include the 1601, 16233, 126233, and special editions such as the “Wimbledon” and Saudi Police Force references. |
| Collectability & Value | Highly collectible for its heritage, versatility, and durability; vintage references and rare configurations achieve strong demand at auction. |
| Price Range | Typically ranges from ~$5,000 for early steel models to $40,000+ for modern gold or diamond-set versions, depending on rarity and condition. |
| Collector Appeal | Prized for its timeless design, precision, and status as one of Rolex’s most recognizable icons in luxury watchmaking. |
Introduction to the Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust was first introduced in 1945, a milestone that marked the Rolex brand’s 40th anniversary. This release was a groundbreaking moment in the history of watchmaking, as the Rolex Datejust was the world's first self-winding chronometer watch to display the date in a window at the 3 o'clock position on the dial. Prior to this innovation, watches did not automatically adjust the date, requiring manual adjustment. The Rolex Datejust watch’s automatic date change at midnight set a new standard and established a feature that has since become ubiquitous in watches.
The inception of the Rolex Datejust was not just about functionality; it also emphasized aesthetic refinement. The original Rolex Datejust, launched with the Jubilee bracelet, featured a design that balanced elegance with robustness. Introduced by Rolex in 1926, the watch's Oyster case was the world's first waterproof watch case. This made the Rolex Datejust not only stylish but also durable and reliable under various conditions.
The Rolex Datejust watch's appeal has been timeless by maintaining its classic design while integrating modern advancements over the decades. It has undergone numerous updates and iterations, including the introduction of the Cyclops lens in 1953 which magnifies the date for easy readability. This blend of tradition and innovation has kept the Rolex Datejust at the forefront of watchmaking, making it a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.
Key Features of the Rolex Datejust
The Oyster Case
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust features the robust and waterproof Oyster case, which is a cornerstone of the Rolex brand’s reputation for durability and precision. The Rolex Oyster case ensures that the watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters to protect the intricate movement within.
The Jubilee Bracelet
Introduced simultaneously with the Rolex Datejust, the Jubilee bracelet is known for its comfort and refined appearance. It features a five-piece link construction that provides both flexibility and a sophisticated look that complements the watch's overall design.
The Cyclops Lens
One of the most recognizable features of the Datejust Rolex is the Cyclops lens, introduced in 1953. Positioned over the date window the Cyclops lens magnifies the date by two and a half times. This made the watch easier to read and added a distinctive character to the piece.
Rolex Datejust Available Sizes
The Rolex Datejust is available in a variety of sizes to suit different wrist sizes and preferences. The most common sizes include:
- 28mm: Typically referred to as the Rolex Lady Datejust, this size is perfect for those who prefer a smaller, more delicate timepiece.
- 31mm: Known as the midsize Rolex Datejust, it offers a balance between the classic ladies' and larger men's sizes, making it a versatile option for both genders.
- 36mm: This size is considered the classic Rolex Datejust size, suitable for both men and women who prefer a moderate-sized watch.
- 41mm: The Rolex Datejust II or Rolex Datejust 41 are known as the largest options, designed for those who prefer a more substantial presence on the wrist.
Diamond Set Rolex Datejust Watches
For those seeking additional luxury and elegance, Rolex offers diamond set Rolex Datejust watches. These timepieces feature meticulously selected and expertly set diamonds, adding an extra layer of sophistication and sparkle.
Diamond-Set Bezels and Dials
Diamond-set Rolex Datejust models often feature diamonds on the bezel to enhance the watch's allure and glamour. Additionally, some models have diamond hour markers on the dial, adding a touch of brilliance to the timepiece.
Customization Options
Rolex provides various customization options for diamond set Rolex Datejust watches. Customers can choose from different diamond patterns and placements for a personalized and unique expression of luxury.
Popular Models
Some of the popular diamond-set Rolex Datejust models include:
- Rolex Datejust 36 with Diamond Dial: This model features a 36mm case with a diamond-set dial, combining classic size with luxurious detailing.
- Rolex Lady Datejust 28 with Diamond Bezel: The 28mm case adorned with a diamond bezel makes this model a perfect blend of elegance and brilliance.
Famous Wearers of the Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust has adorned the wrists of many prominent figures across various fields, further cementing its status as a symbol of success and sophistication. Some of the notable wearers include:
- Winston Churchill: The legendary British Prime Minister received a Rolex Datejust as a gift from Rolex, reflecting the watch’s status and prestige.
- Dwight D. Eisenhower: The 34th President of the United States was known to wear a Rolex Datejust, showcasing its appeal among world leaders.
- Martin Luther King Jr.: The civil rights leader’s choice of a Rolex Datejust highlights the watch’s association with influential figures who have made significant contributions to society.
- Paul Newman: The celebrated actor and race car driver was often seen wearing a Rolex Datejust, underscoring its versatility and timeless charm.
The Rolex Datejust stands as a testament to the brand's dedication to luxury, precision, and innovation. From its groundbreaking introduction in 1945 to the numerous updates and iconic features like the Cyclops lens and Jubilee bracelet, the Rolex Datejust has seamlessly blended tradition with modern advancements. The variety in sizes, the option for diamond-set models, and the rich history of famous wearers further highlight its timeless appeal. The Rolex Datejust watch's enduring elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts, solidifying its status as one of the most sought-after timepieces in the world.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Rolex Datejust
Why is the Rolex Datejust so popular?
The Rolex Datejust is admired for its timeless aesthetics, reliable performance, and pioneering role as the first self-winding watch with an automatically changing date. Its iconic Oyster case, fluted bezel, and Cyclops lens make it instantly recognizable, while numerous size and dial variations ensure broad appeal among collectors. Its enduring presence on the wrists of presidents, cultural leaders, and public figures has further cemented its status.
What makes the Rolex Datejust different from other Rolex models?
Unlike Rolex’s sport-oriented lines, the Datejust blends elegance with everyday practicality, offering waterproof construction, automatic movement, and a date mechanism in a refined, versatile design. It’s available in more size, dial, and material options than nearly any other Rolex collection, making it adaptable to a wide range of personal styles. This balance of durability and sophistication has positioned the Datejust as a cornerstone of the brand.
Buy and Sell Rolex Watches with Sotheby’s
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or exploring your first luxury watch, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Rolex timepieces on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection
Explore rare and iconic Rolex watches, from Datejust models starting around $10,000 to highly sought-after professional and limited-edition pieces commanding significantly higher prices. - Exclusive Global Access
Shop Rolex watches through Sotheby’s auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors. - Flexible Ways to Buy
Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, London, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated watch concierge to source specific Rolex models. - Exceptional Value
Every Rolex is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value, whether it’s a vintage Submariner or a modern Daytona Rainbow. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
Discover vintage and modern Rolex watches across all price points, with new pieces added regularly to both auctions and Buy Now offerings.
Ready to Get Started?
- Browse Sotheby’s upcoming watch auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
- Shop Sotheby’s Buy Now Rolex watches for instant access to available inventory
- Speak with a Sotheby’s watch specialist to consign or request a valuation for a Rolex watch
Trust our worldwide network of leading watch specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
