Francesca Amfitheatrof on Creating Jewels That Capture the Magic of Venice

A s Artistic Director Watches and Jewelry for Louis Vuitton and former Design Director of Tiffany & Co., Francesca Amritheatrof was the natural choice to takeover as Head of Creative of renowned Venetian High Jewelry house, Codognato. As she presents her inaugural collection against the backdrop of the Venice Biennale, we sat down with her to chart her journey.

Mariko Finch: Can you describe your journey to where you find yourself now?

Francesca Amfitheatrof: I first met Attilio in the early 90s in London, outside a Marcel Duchamp exhibition that Mario Codognato was curating. I have always been a very close friend of Mario and had often visited Venice and Attilio in the shop. A few years ago, Mario approached me and asked me if would be interested in becoming Head of Creative at Codognato. I spent a lot of time in Venice with both Attilio, Mario, and Christina Codognato - getting to know the business, understanding Attilio’s vision and creative process and meeting with the incredible artisans who brought his designs to life. This was a very special moment in time for me - and to be handed over such a treasure is a dream come true.

How do you begin to draw inspiration for your creations?

The richness of Venice and its incredible mixture of cultures have created such a mystical blend which is forever inspiring for me, and has inspired Codognato throughout the centuries. I feel that the magic Venice holds is a never-ending feast of possibilities. I draw inspiration not just visually but also mystically as jewelry has this talismanic power.

You have pushed the boundaries of jewelry design at houses such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Tiffany & Co. What are you most excited about in joining Codognato?

Each of my creative journeys in these historic houses has been unique and I feel that I am able to absorb the true soul of each of these houses and transform their essence into collections. What I look forward to doing at Codognato is to create treasures that will become part of history.

What does your creative process look like?

At Codognato I really want to introduce new themes. So, this starts with a lot of research. I am heavily influenced by art, which Venice is steeped in. I sketch, I create, I draw, I research to any limitless possibilities without giving myself any boundaries. Anything is possible when creating. It is the really organized control of the narrative combined with the creative freedom which is chaos. It is exactly this tension of work and play that allows me to be creative.

What are your golden rules for wearing and styling jewelry?

I love to wear pieces together. I love stacking rings and bracelets but as a rule if I am wearing an important necklace, I generally won’t wear earrings – possibly only small diamonds.

How much does the heritage of a brand affect the creative approach when conceiving a collection?

It is everything, heritage is how you identify the storytelling. I am not a designer that can be inspired by an element like a flower or a star. I need a dream and a story that transports me because jewels are emphatic and powerful memory holders.

Apart from jewelry, do you collect anything?

I collect everything: Contemporary art, glass, ceramics, jewelry, cars, dogs, people! The more I collect the happier I am.

If you could choose any figure from history up to the present day, who would you most like to design a piece of jewelry for?

Maria Callas and Miles Davis.

What are you most excited to experience at the Venice Biennale?

The Willem De Kooning show at Gallerie dell’Accademia, curated by Mario Codognato, celebrating one of the greatest American modern artists, and the new Berggruen Arts & Culture Foundation.

Codognato, Calle Vallaresso San Marco 1316 , Venezia 30124.

Art Fairs

The Venice Biennale