Cartier Watches: Exploring the Use of Diamonds

Cartier Watches: Exploring the Use of Diamonds

As a maison with deep roots in both fine watchmaking and high jewelry, it comes as no surpirse that Cartier has created exceptional diamond-set watches throughout the years. Here, we explore a selection of Cartier diamond watches brought to market by Sotheby's.
As a maison with deep roots in both fine watchmaking and high jewelry, it comes as no surpirse that Cartier has created exceptional diamond-set watches throughout the years. Here, we explore a selection of Cartier diamond watches brought to market by Sotheby's.

C artier holds a storied history in both the fields of high watchmaking and fine jewelry. To this day, the maison draws upon its expertise in each of these crafts in order to create exceptional diamond-set watches that exude elegance. Here we explore a small selection of the standout diamond-set Cartier watches that Sotheby's specialists have brought to market.

The History of Diamond-Set Cartier Watches

Cartier first started adding diamonds to watches in the 1920s, with the Cartier Tutti Frutti watch being among the first to feature diamonds and gemstones. These Cartier watches were set in platinum and featured carved sapphires, emeralds, and rubies in addition to diamonds. Cartier also added diamonds to the Cartier Tank during the Art Deco period, with the modern rectangular design of this collection pairing effortlessly with diamond-set features. Following the Art Deco period, Cartier has continued to expand the number of its watchmaking creations that feature diamonds. These Cartier watches remain highly sought by collectors, with such enthusiasm coming not only as a result of the inherent value of the materials and jewels utilised in their crafting, but also because these creations represent Cartier's dual-standing as both a watchmaker and jeweler of the highest order

Cartier Tutti Frutti, Circa 2003

Cartier Panthére Reference 315AF, Circa 2011, 2,772,000 HKD

Cartier Panthere Diamond
Cartier Panthére Reference 315AF, Circa 2011

This Cartier Panthére Reference 315AF sold for 2,772,000 HKD in April 2022.

Dazzlingly attractive, this Cartier Panthère provided a not-to-be-missed opportunity to acquire an alluring watchmaking masterpiece. Often appearing in Cartier’s signature collection, the Panthère is no stranger to connoisseurs but it is a rare occurrence when a watch is added to the bangle.

 

Immaculately crafted, the panther was positioned in a resting posture with the tail wrapped around the wrist, as if waiting for another hunting opportunity. Creating tremendous wrist presence, not only was the panther pavé-set with diamonds but it was also highlighted with sapphire spots and emeralds on the watch dial. The perfect use of colored gemstones complemented the marvelous diamonds to enliven the gorgeous panther. Bringing practicality, the movement is powered by an easy-to-use quartz movement so it can be worn straight away without winding it. With world-class execution and artisanship, this Cartier watch captured the interest of Cartier collectors.

Cartier Crash, Reference 2463, Circa 2001, 1,079,500 HKD

Cartier Crash, Reference 2463, Circa 2001

The Cartier Crash is one of the most distinctive designs in Cartier’s catolog. Launched in 1967, its asymmetrical, melted appearance is said to be inspired by a damaged Cartier Baignoire Allongée that was involved in a car crash. This surreal design is further enhanced with diamonds, making an idiosyncratic aesthetic even more striking

This Cartier Crash sold for 1,079,500 HKD in October 2023 during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in Hong Kong. Over the years, Cartier has created a number of reissued versions to celebrate this iconic model. Among the various iterations of the watch, it's rare to discover diamond-set examples. Those adorned with pink diamonds are rarer yet which resulted in significant collector interest in this lot.

Cartier Ballon Bleu, Reference 3271, Circa 2011, 330,200 HKD

Cartier Ballon Bleu, Reference 3271, Circa 2011

The Cartier Ballon Bleu, introduced in 2007, is characterized by its rounded case and sapphire cabochon crown integrated into the side. This modern classic has quickly become a favorite among Cartier watch enthusiasts. The diamond-set versions of the Cartier Ballon Bleu are particularly stunning, elevating a collection which typically provides entry into the universe of Cartier watches into new heights of opulence.

This Cartier Ballon Bleu achieved 330,200 HKD in April 2023. Striking on the wrist, this Cartier watch was spectacularly enhanced with an abundance of diamonds that dazzled on the case, dial and the bracelet. Seamlessly blurring the lines between fine watchmaking and high jewelry, this Cartier watch captivated enthusiasts during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in Hong Kong.

Cartier Baignoire, Reference 3033, Circa 2012, 254,000 HKD

Cartier Baignoire, Reference 3033, Circa 2012

The Cartier Baignoire is named for its oval shape resembling a bathtub. First introduced in 1912, the Cartier Baignoire watch is celebrated for its unique and graceful design. The elongated, curved case hugs the wrist beautifully, and when encrusted with diamonds, it exudes an air of vintage glamour. A diamond set case and crown tend to accentuate the watch's elegant contours, making it a perfect accessory for formal occasions. The Cartier Baignoire is a favorite among those who appreciate its feminine charm and timeless appeal.

This Cartier Baignoire sold for 254,000 HKD in 2023 during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in Hong Kong.

Cartier, Diamond Tank Americaine, 25,000 GBP

Cartier Diamond Tank Americaine

The Cartier Tank is perhaps the most iconic model in Cartier's watch lineup. Introduced in 1917, its design was inspired by the Renault tanks used during World War I. The Cartier Tank's rectangular case, clean lines, and elegant proportions have made it a timeless classic. When adorned with diamonds, the Cartier Tank combines its trademark characteristics of elegance and vintage chic with that of opulence and old-world glamour.

This Cartier Tank Americaine sold in June 2020 for 25,000 GBP during Sotheby's Fine Jewels sale in London. The sale price significantly exceeding the 8,000 – 10,000 GBP estimate of this Cartier watch. The diamond-set bezel and bracelet of this Cartier watch provided grandeur and sparkle, albeit in Cartier's trademark elegant aesthetic. Cartier quite literally left no stone un-turned with this creation, with the deployant clasp also set with brilliant cut-diamonds.

Buying and Selling Diamond Cartier Watches at Sotheby's

At Sotheby’s our experts have brought a wide range of extraordinary Cartier watches to market, making us well placed to advise clients on the sale or acquisition of a Cartier watch. Work with Sotheby's specialists and in doing so be part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.

  • Explore upcoming watch auctions across the globe, frequently featuring Cartier examples with excellent provenance
  • Speak to our specialists about selling your Cartier watch, for advice on an auction lot, or to explore private sales opportunities
  • Research your Cartier investment using our extensive sale archive
  • Browse our range of carefully curated watches available for immediate delivery, all with assured provenance
  • Shop for complementary Cartier jewelry handpicked by our global network of jewelry specialists

Trust our worldwide network of leading Cartier specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280 year history.

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