Designing for Important Diamonds

By Ashley Flight

W ho would have thought that French philosopher William of Ockham, a Dominican theologian from the 13th Century, would have founded a principle so relevant to jewellery design? Occam’s razor, the law of simplicity, is literally just that: simple. By applying this concept to the most unique and important diamonds in the world, Sotheby’s Diamonds masterfully presents wearable diamond jewellery for the woman who has everything.  

Each diamond brings an exclusive design requirement to Sotheby’s Diamonds where Design Director, Behroz Mewawalla, hand renders a unique design to perfectly frame the diamond. Think of framing a Picasso; how do you showcase the centre artwork, or diamond in this case, to maximise its importance? Mewawalla shares two examples of how her designs achieve a harmonious parity of simplicity, elegance and balance without distracting from the beauty of the diamond.

When it comes to designing for 20-plus carat important diamonds, the logistical challenge of making the diamond wearable is the first feat Behroz must solve. Applying Occam’s razor to the design process, the architecture for the setting focuses on minimalism. With delicate soft flowing edges, nominal traces of metal this magnificent fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut diamond weighing 74.49 carats is magically, invisibly suspended from a white twisting, silky ribbon of pavé-set diamonds.

The Blue Diamond Butterfly Ring illustrates the design challenge of framing two impossibly beautiful, yet unique, blue diamonds. To enhance the beauty of these rare and delicate stones, Behroz applied a simple and naturalistic concept to her design approach. What did the diamonds remind her of? The petals of a flower or perhaps the delicate wings of a butterfly. Thus, the Butterfly Ring was born. A simple, fluid flow of pavé-set white and pink diamonds feature a 2.03 carat Fancy Intense Blue pear-shaped diamond and a 5.00 carat Fancy Vivid Blue rose-cut diamond. 

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