Complete Guide to Buying a Birkin Bag
Discover everything you need to know about the iconic Hermès Birkin bag, from its rich history to pricing, popular leathers, and expert tips on buying and selling.
The Hermès Birkin bag is one of the most coveted handbags in the world—celebrated for its heritage, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. In this guide, we cover everything you need to know before buying a Birkin bag: its history, sizes, leathers, prices, exotic materials, and insider tips for purchasing from Hermès or the secondary market.
Brief History of the Birkin Bag
The Hermès Birkin was born in 1984 from a chance encounter between actress Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London. Birkin mentioned her need for a stylish yet practical bag, inspiring the first Birkin 40 in sleek calfbox leather. Its now-signature details—rolled handles, a flap top, clou “feet,” and a lock closure—have remained unchanged, except for the removal of the strap after the very first design. Each Birkin is meticulously handmade by a single artisan over at least 18 hours, then stamped with a code identifying its year, workshop, and maker. Limited production, strict allocation to boutiques, and unpredictable style availability mean that purchasing directly from Hermès often requires a strong purchase history and patience—contributing to the Birkin’s enduring allure and reputation as the most searched-for Hermès bag.
Birkin Bag Sizes and Prices
Birkin bag prices vary widely depending on size, material, rarity, age, and condition. While hardware type is a personal style choice and has minimal impact on value, the size you choose plays a major role in both price and popularity. Standard Birkin sizes include the Birkin 25, Birkin 30, Birkin 35 and Birkin 40. The most in-demand sizes are the Birkin 25 and Birkin 30, prized for their versatility and wearability. Ultra-small editions like the Faubourg Birkin 20, micro Birkin 15, and Baby Birkin are produced in very limited quantities, making them highly collectible.
Retail prices at Hermès start around $10,000 for a standard leather Birkin and can exceed $200,000 for rare styles such as a crocodile Birkin with diamond hardware. At Sotheby’s, most leather Birkin 25 and Birkin 30 bags sell between $20,000 and $30,000, while older leather Birkin 35 bags can start around $15,000. Exotic Birkins typically command higher prices: ostrich Birkins often sell for $25,000–$35,000, while crocodile and alligator Birkins usually exceed $40,000. Exceptional examples, like a store-fresh diamond Himalayan Birkin, can fetch more than $400,000 at auction, underscoring the Birkin’s position as one of the most valuable handbags in the world.
Birkin Bag Leather Types
Since its debut in 1984, the Hermès Birkin has been produced in a wide range of leathers, exotic skins, and limited-edition finishes—each offering a distinct look, feel, and level of durability. The first Birkin appeared in calfbox leather, Hermès’ oldest heritage leather, known for its smooth, glossy surface and sophisticated sheen. While prone to scratches and watermarks, these marks develop into a mirror-like patina over time, adding to its charm. Proper care, such as avoiding rain and gently buffing imperfections, helps preserve its elegance.
Among today’s most popular options is Togo leather, introduced in 1997. Made from calfskin and named after the Togolese Republic, Togo features a soft, matte texture with a pronounced grain that becomes shinier with wear. Highly scratch-resistant, it is favored by both collectors and daily users for its durability. Clemence leather, made from cowhide, offers a softer, heavier feel and a casual look, though it is less structured and more prone to slouching over time.
For those who prefer structure, Epsom leather is lightweight, rigid, and embossed for a uniform grain. Its scratch- and water-resistant qualities make it exceptionally easy to maintain. Fjord leather offers similar durability with a softer, matte finish, while Evercolor leather—introduced in 2012—adds a satiny texture and comes in a wide range of “forever” colors. The Barenia Faubourg calfskin, launched in 2016, combines heritage appeal with a fine printed grain and a waxy touch that naturally darkens where handled.
On the secondary market, leather Birkins appear in nearly every color imaginable, while Hermès boutiques release only a carefully curated palette each year. With such variety in texture, durability, and hue, Birkin leathers allow collectors to choose a bag that perfectly matches both their style and lifestyle needs.
Sellier Birkin vs. Classic Birkin (Retourne)
The Hermès Birkin is available in two main construction styles: the Sellier and the Classic Birkin, also known as the Retourne. The Sellier, first introduced as a limited edition in 2010 and reintroduced in 2020, features visible exterior stitching and a more structured silhouette, giving it a crisp, polished look. In contrast, the Retourne has interior stitching, resulting in softer edges and a more relaxed, slouchy profile.
Functionally, the Sellier holds its shape better over time, making it a popular choice in humid climates, while the Retourne offers a more casual, pliable feel. The main trade-off with the structured Sellier is that its sharper corners may be more susceptible to wear in crowded environments.
While the Sellier’s retail price is only slightly higher than the Retourne, it commands a notable premium on the secondary market due to its limited production and heightened demand, making it a sought-after option for collectors seeking a rarer Birkin style.
Exotic Birkin Bags
Hermès Birkin bags are also crafted in exotic materials—crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard—offering a higher level of rarity and exclusivity compared to standard leather Birkins. Among these, crocodile is the most expensive, available in Niloticus and Porosus varieties, identified by symbols “••” and “^” next to the Hermès logo, respectively. The legendary Himalayan Birkin is made from Niloticus crocodile dyed in a white and grey gradient, inspired by the snow-capped Himalayas.
Alligator skin is slightly less costly than crocodile but features larger, softer plates and a poreless texture, marked by a small square symbol. Lizard skin, typically used for smaller Birkins like the Birkin 25, absorbs pigments well and comes in a range of vivid colors. Niloticus lizard is marked with “-” and Varanus Salvator lizard with “=”.
The most durable and entry-level exotic is ostrich, a leather Hermès has used since the 1920s. Its distinctive follicles create a dual-tone effect, and Hermès flattens and triples the skin to preserve durability. Ostrich naturally darkens over time with handling and is also available in vibrant colors. Each exotic Birkin carries a premium, reflecting its rarity, craftsmanship, and luxurious appeal.
Quick Buyer's FAQ: Mastering the Birkin Buy
What is the starting price for a Birkin bag?
Retail prices for leather Birkins typically begin around $10,000, while exotic skins and diamond-encrusted designs can exceed $200,000. On the secondary market, Birkins range from $20,000 to $35,000 for leather models while rare exotic and Himalaya Birkin bags are generally valued over $100,000.
Which Birkin size is most popular?
The Birkin 25 and 30 are the most sought-after for everyday wear. Larger sizes like the 35 are favored for travel, while rare mini sizes (15 and 20) are highly collectible.
What is the difference between Sellier and Retourne?
Sellier Birkins have exterior stitching and a more structured silhouette, often commanding higher resale values. Retourne models have softer edges and a more casual feel.
Which leather should I choose?
Togo leather is durable and resistant to scratches, making it a popular everyday choice. Epsom leather offers a lightweight, structured finish, while exotic skins like crocodile offer unparalleled luxury.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags with Sotheby’s
Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of Hermès bags, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Hermès Birkin bags on the secondary market.
Why Choose Sotheby’s?
- Expertly Vetted Selection
Explore rare and collectible Birkin bags, starting from $20,000 to $35,000 for leather models while rare exotic and Himalaya Birkin bags are generally valued over $100,000. - Exclusive Global Access
Shop handbags through auctions and Buy Now marketplace, backed by a worldwide network of collectors and consignors. - Flexible Ways to Buy
Purchase online or in person at our locations in New York, Paris, and Hong Kong—or work with a dedicated handbag concierge. - Exceptional Value
Every handbag is authenticated and priced by Sotheby’s specialists to reflect true market value. - Constantly Evolving Inventory
Discover Hermès Birkin bags across all price points, with new pieces added regularly.
Ready to Get Started?
- Browse upcoming Sotheby’s handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong
- Shop Sotheby’s Buy Now handbags for instant access to available inventory
- Speak with a Sotheby’s handbag specialist to consign or request a valuation for a Hermès Birkin bag
Trust Sotheby’s worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
